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Subframe Remove - Catastrophe!

Old 01-23-2017, 11:01 PM
  #151  
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Originally Posted by nine9six
Just goes to show how thirsty some of us are for some technical content, as opposed to what color socks look best when I drive my 993?
+1
we need someone to drop a Twinkie down their oil tank or something.
Old 01-23-2017, 11:03 PM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by OverBoosted28
Really wish you could've got it. It would've been a combined (team) win.
^agree.

But good on you for giving it a shot anyway. Not one shred of fail in this thread IMHO.

Let us know when it's finally sorted, hope it's not too painful on the wallet.

Last edited by bcameron59; 01-24-2017 at 02:01 AM.
Old 01-23-2017, 11:05 PM
  #153  
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Originally Posted by trophy
Drive it north in Spring and we will have some fun
That would be an awesome trip, I'd love to do that. I'll see if I can convince my kids that it would be fun to ride in the back that far .
Old 01-23-2017, 11:06 PM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by AllanH
+1
we need someone to drop a Twinkie down their oil tank or something.
Just give me time. I can probably manage that...
Old 01-23-2017, 11:08 PM
  #155  
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Originally Posted by OverBoosted28
Really wish you could've got it. It would've been a combined (team) win.
Me too, but discretion is (sometimes) the better part of valor.
Old 01-24-2017, 09:56 AM
  #156  
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Originally Posted by AllanH
+1
we need someone to drop a Twinkie down their oil tank or something.
I once found what looked most like a 1" piece of screwdriver handle in an oil filter of a 993. Makes you wonder where the rest of the screwdriver is. That's a real problem; one no time-sert can fix. Tlaloc75, you have it easy by comparison

Fingers, toes, and eyes crossed for a quick resolution from here on out.
Old 01-24-2017, 10:18 AM
  #157  
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Hold on just a second....... There is a sock color requirement??




Why wasn't I informed of this earlier? Is black considered a neutral in these parts??
Old 01-24-2017, 10:24 AM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by mpruden
I once found what looked most like a 1" piece of screwdriver handle in an oil filter of a 993. Makes you wonder where the rest of the screwdriver is. That's a real problem; one no time-sert can fix. Tlaloc75, you have it easy by comparison

Fingers, toes, and eyes crossed for a quick resolution from here on out.
Wow! That's impressive to imagine.

I'm eager to get to resolution too. I'll be on the edge of my seat, waiting and wondering, until I can finish the rest of the suspension and get it to the mechanic for bolt-rehab.

I'm working as fast as I can, plenty motivated!
Old 01-24-2017, 12:58 PM
  #159  
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Looking back and now wondering if we were not screwed from the get go?

Im doing the math after the fact; on the assumption that the math had already been calculated prior to drilling of the pilot hole.

10.5mm, is the drill size for drilling and tapping a M12 x 1.5 internal thread.

A 10.5mm drill measures .413", and a 3/8" drill measures .375", which leaves a difference of .038" ÷ 2 = .019" + .005" thread clearance.

This calculation allows for off center error of no more than .024" before encroahing on the female internal threads when drilling with the 3/8" drill bit.

For visual reference sake, look at a ruler and find the 1/64" marking. Now then, .024" is approx. 1 1/2, 1/64th of an inch.

My eyes are older, but the pilot hole looked to be off center by easily more than .024" and the hole has to be relatively straight as well.

Sorry, I should have done the math beforehand when responding to the OP. Damned assumptions on my part...My belated apologies.

All I can say now is, please SLOW DOWN
Old 01-24-2017, 01:06 PM
  #160  
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Originally Posted by nine9six
Looking back and now wondering if we were not screwed from the get go?

Im doing the math after the fact; on the assumption that the math had already been calculated prior to drilling of the pilot hole.

10.5mm, is the drill size for drilling and tapping a M12 x 1.5 internal thread.

A 10.5mm drill measures .413", and a 3/8" drill measures .375", which leaves a difference of .038" ÷ 2 = .019" + .005" thread clearance.

This calculation allows for off center error of no more than .024" before encroahing on the female internal threads when drilling with the 3/8" drill bit.

For visual reference sake, look at a ruler and find the 1/64" marking. Now then, .024" is approx. 1 1/2, 1/64th of an inch.

My eyes are older, but the pilot hole looked to be off center by easily more than .024" and the hole has to be relatively straight as well.

Sorry, I should have done the math beforehand when responding to the OP. Damned assumptions on my part...My belated apologies.

All I can say now is, please SLOW DOWN
Yeah, I think if I'd gotten it perfectly down the center the 3/8 could have worked. I didn't have much margin for error and if I'd known better I would have used a smaller step up from the 1/4. Maybe the threads still would have gotten banged up trying to remove what was left...
Old 01-24-2017, 09:42 PM
  #161  
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Originally Posted by Tlaloc75
Yeah, I think if I'd gotten it perfectly down the center the 3/8 could have worked. I didn't have much margin for error and if I'd known better I would have used a smaller step up from the 1/4. Maybe the threads still would have gotten banged up trying to remove what was left...
I totally agree...I like to leave about .030" on a side, when using an easy-out, just so that it has some meat to dig into without hitting the crest of the internal threads, and to provide some error factor.

If hand drilling over an inch deep, I would leave .050"-.060" extra per side. Its very difficult to hit and stay on center with a hand drill; and even more so at an angle, no matter how steep or slight.

...and if I'd known better I would have used a smaller step up from the 1/4.
Unfortunately, once the pilot hole is drilled, no matter the size you step up, the next drill will tend to follow the pilot hole. Unless you're referring to just leaving more meat in the bore...

You are kinda dealing with a double edged blade here...You want as big a hole to accomodate the most robust easy out, and to relieve as much tension as possible. There will always be some error but you want to try to mitigate as much as possible, while giving yourself the best shot at extracting a broken bolt, screw, stud...

As far as machine tools go, only an end mill can change the path in a meaningful way. So no sense in giving it another thought...You fought the good fight, and gained experience not many are even willing to try. So kudos to you!

Last edited by nine9six; 01-25-2017 at 12:10 AM.
Old 01-24-2017, 10:12 PM
  #162  
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This post, when it concludes, will go down in 993 Forum history to be known as the Ultimate Screw.
Old 01-25-2017, 05:43 AM
  #163  
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Originally Posted by BlackSnake99
Hold on just a second....... There is a sock color requirement??




Why wasn't I informed of this earlier? Is black considered a neutral in these parts??
You are not far from right! The socks must match the seat belts, black in most cases but there are other colours as well!
Old 01-25-2017, 10:57 AM
  #164  
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Originally Posted by Railmaster.
You are not far from right! The socks must match the seat belts, black in most cases but there are other colours as well!
Seat belt matching is just one aspect of the sock colour conundrum. Some of the debate rages around what to do when your car is PTS (paint to sample) and that exact colour can't be found at the sock store.

In this case, is it ok to use a sock colour that's pretty close to PTS, or is that simply gauche, if not an exact match? Should one go with a complementary or contrasting colour instead?

A few have chosen to match the carpet colour or whatever shade they painted the engine fan, but those folks are either pariahs or bleeding edge adopters - only time will tell where the dictates of fashion will take us in the end.

In the meantime, I prefer to use the forum to debate the merits of which oil is best for washing whichever socks I decide to wear.

Last edited by bcameron59; 01-26-2017 at 12:01 AM.
Old 01-25-2017, 11:28 AM
  #165  
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Originally Posted by nine9six
I totally agree...I like to leave about .030" on a side, when using an easy-out, just so that it has some meat to dig into without hitting the crest of the internal threads, and to provide some error factor.

If hand drilling over an inch deep, I would leave .050"-.060" extra per side. Its very difficult to hit and stay on center with a hand drill; and even more so at an angle, no matter how steep or slight.



Unfortunately, once the pilot hole is drilled, no matter the size you step up, the next drill will tend to follow the pilot hole. Unless you're referring to just leaving more meat in the bore...

You are kinda dealing with a double edged blade here...You want as big a hole to accomodate the most robust easy out, and to relieve as much tension as possible. There will always be some error but you want to try to mitigate as much as possible, while giving yourself the best shot at extracting a broken bolt, screw, stud...

As far as machine tools go, only an end mill can change the path in a meaningful way. So no sense in giving it another thought...You fought the good fight, and gained experience not many are even willing to try. So kudos to you!
Yes I was referring to leaving enough room for error that the female threads would have been less likely to be hit. 3/8, in retrospect didn't give me nearly enough room.

It was definitely an interesting experience. Given what you see in the pictures and the math involved, do you have any concerns around getting a time-sert to fit and work properly? Anything I should be especially aware of when working with my mechanic to finalize the fix?

Thanks again for all the advice and help!

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