F18drvr

http://https://rennlist.com/forums/9...ll-help-4.html

I tried to cut and paste above a cross post from the turbo section using my iPad.

I am in progress on my install and have just completed the zip cut on the forward shocks and am getting ready to remove them. The rears are already removed. I have preset the rear perch which connects to drop link to the sway bar. Upon inspection of the top hats they need to be replaced. The car is a 1995 C2 with 156k miles on oem hats. I am guessing the fronts need replacing too.

I plan on also replacing the plastic clips for the wires on the front.

Before ordering parts any wise words and guidance is appreciated in advance. Not going with larger sways or adjustable drop links now.

Of course ride height will be lowered and an alignment corner balance is next. So far no surprises.

Thanks

F18drvr

In addition the front drop links need new boot covers. Having not called Sunset yet or even looked on their website, anyone have a different source for these? I am also guessing Sunset is the go to source for hats?

F18drvr

Well the link doesn't work...I guess I am a techno-tard. Whatever...

F18drvr

Now the fronts are out. The top hats/bearings seem to be fine. Zero play, no appreciable grinding. I am now inclined to NOT replace these. Thoughts?

Car is primarily an AX and occasional DE toy. Not going racing.

P-daddy

While the suspension is out on a car with 156k miles, I'd replace the front hats as well.

jscott82

My 2 cents...

Don't cut the he brake line bracket like a lot of DIY tell you to. Bleeding the brakes is easy enough and you probably need to do it anyway..

You will need to pop that little clip off when you change rotors down the road. once the bracket is cut, getting the clip on is a pain...

nine9six

Words of wisdom ^^^

Regarding the drop link boots, I found out these also are also a direct replacement for the rear drop link boots in addition to the RS drop links...I just replaced a torn boot on the pss10 rear drop link; but measure yours first to make sure. If not, they are not alot of money ($5.xx) per pair, and come in many size variances and various durometer ratings.

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ent-boots.html

or

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/151710082704?...&ul_noapp=true

p.s. Good work on your PSS10 install !

HTH, Dave

Tlaloc75

My front droplink boots are torn as well. I opted to replace the whole thing. I feel like once a boot is torn, unless you catch it right away, its impossible to keep dirt out and the joint is going to be compromised. Its not big bucks, so I figured better to be safe and just get a new part.

Same thing with shock mounts (top hats). I'm at 127k and figured the rubber has to be compromised at this point, so got new on all four corners to make sure I'm starting fresh. I'm doing a full suspension refresh and want it to last for 100k+ more miles so I'm being thorough.

Does anyone have a link to a good DIY for the PSS10? I'm about to tackle that project - parts came in the mail yesterday.

Tlaloc75

Oh and I bought my front droplinks from FVD. They are more expensive than sunset or sonnen but they had a cool droplink I liked the looks of. Its more like the RS part, with higher density rubber. So its not a monoball, which I decided to avoid, but its a bit more connected/rigid than the stock part.

F18drvr

^^^
Too late for the originals...did not cut the new ones though. I was thinking about that spring clip and how it might produce headaches with a cut when re-installing.

I had the brakes bled professionally early this year by a friend who owns his shop. He used a computer to do the job thoroughly...which I learned includes flushing the ABD system as well. I will open the line and do a bleed when I re-install.

Thanks for the lead on the dust boot covers too!

Cheers

Texas993

While you are in there... why not replace the ball joints in the front. Autohauseaz sells the Lemforders for cheap. Same as the Porsche part.

And check your steering boots on both sides. Easier to do now.

JB 911

When I changed my suspension the olds were already slotted. Zero issue with the clip. The trick is to make a slot for the line to pass thru. Not a single cut and a bend.

F18drvr

"When I changed my suspension the olds were already slotted. Zero issue with the clip. The trick is to make a slot for the line to pass thru. Not a single cut and a bend."

Do you have a pic by chance? I think the trick would be getting the opening to be just big enough to slip the line through of course...and then also the exact position of the cut. All of which is more easily achieved with the new shock on the bench to perform the precise surgery required..lol.

"While you are in there... why not replace the ball joints in the front. Autohauseaz sells the Lemforders for cheap. Same as the Porsche part.

And check your steering boots on both sides. Easier to do now."

I will look in to this...thanks

OverBoosted28

It's not major surgery. Just notch it out, about 1/4"-3/8", smooth any burring, and done!!! Dremel will handle it. "0" problems with clip, since you maintain shape of tab, and only notch enough to let hard line slip in/out.
Here's a pic I found......

squidge

Yeah, I notched my Monroes with a dremel, on the car, as explained by OverBoosted. Worked fine and I was able to replace the clips without issue.

The PSS10s I just bought have a single cut with the tab twisted open, and that looks like a really crappy way to do it. It would definitely interfere with replacing the clip. I intend to straighten it out and then slot it correctly.