Help troubleshooting new 993 Cab
#1
Help troubleshooting new 993 Cab
Hi guys!
So my girlfriend just bought a 1995 993 Carrera 2, convertible.
The car is gorgeous, with 80.000 miles on it. Used to belong to her dad ten years ago.
The car has been well looked after, but driven very little. I guess around 3-4.000 miles in 2-3 years.
I have driven the car every day for a week and a couple of issues have arrisen.
1: The cab got stuck mid way open. Loosened the bolts to manually close it, but havent figured out the cables yet. Tried taking out the bolt and reverse it etc, but the slot (ref Bill NObles guide for this) isnt moving. So I therefore suspect the cable is jammed.
2: The brake pad warning light comes of intermittent.
3: The car squeals at low revs. Started doing it today, but it is really cold here. (4 degress celcius, which is around 40F). It screams like a frightened pig on acceleration, but got better when car was warm.
4: Oil level clock in car is dead. Oil temp and oil pressure works fine.
I am relativly able to work on cars, I have worked on BMWs, VWs, Jaguars and Land Rovers for years, and am not frightened do to most things myself. But I need input!
Happy for any input!
So my girlfriend just bought a 1995 993 Carrera 2, convertible.
The car is gorgeous, with 80.000 miles on it. Used to belong to her dad ten years ago.
The car has been well looked after, but driven very little. I guess around 3-4.000 miles in 2-3 years.
I have driven the car every day for a week and a couple of issues have arrisen.
1: The cab got stuck mid way open. Loosened the bolts to manually close it, but havent figured out the cables yet. Tried taking out the bolt and reverse it etc, but the slot (ref Bill NObles guide for this) isnt moving. So I therefore suspect the cable is jammed.
2: The brake pad warning light comes of intermittent.
3: The car squeals at low revs. Started doing it today, but it is really cold here. (4 degress celcius, which is around 40F). It screams like a frightened pig on acceleration, but got better when car was warm.
4: Oil level clock in car is dead. Oil temp and oil pressure works fine.
I am relativly able to work on cars, I have worked on BMWs, VWs, Jaguars and Land Rovers for years, and am not frightened do to most things myself. But I need input!
Happy for any input!
#2
Instructor
Here is my posting on the cable repair. It also points to other very good postings. It sound like you have a shortened cable that pulled out of the motor. This is a very typical failure of our cars. Do not exercise the top manually as you will damage the transmission and that will be a lot of money to fix. You can repair the cable, see links, or you can buy new ones. Excuse my posting as I made a mistake with the photos and some are missing.
It is s bit tedious of a job to fix the cable and the transmission but you will be knowledgeable when you finish and will not be afraid to leave the top in power mode. If you operate the top manually you will damaged the transmission and you will have to replace it when you go back to power. Your choice as an owner.
I personally have fixed my motor control board, re solder all connections, and completely overhauled both top transmissions and cable. I did it all myself and I am very confident that it will not malfunction for many years, your choice.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...pair-tips.html
It is s bit tedious of a job to fix the cable and the transmission but you will be knowledgeable when you finish and will not be afraid to leave the top in power mode. If you operate the top manually you will damaged the transmission and you will have to replace it when you go back to power. Your choice as an owner.
I personally have fixed my motor control board, re solder all connections, and completely overhauled both top transmissions and cable. I did it all myself and I am very confident that it will not malfunction for many years, your choice.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...pair-tips.html
#3
Instructor
Check out this posting:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...op-issues.html
I wrote the explanation of the damaging of the transmission.
Enjoy your new car. To me one of the greatest pleasures with mine is doing all the work myself, to each its own. This is a superb forum with great people. If it was not for this forum I would have not been able to do all the work I have done in my car.
Welcome to the club
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...op-issues.html
I wrote the explanation of the damaging of the transmission.
Enjoy your new car. To me one of the greatest pleasures with mine is doing all the work myself, to each its own. This is a superb forum with great people. If it was not for this forum I would have not been able to do all the work I have done in my car.
Welcome to the club
#4
Here is my posting on the cable repair. It also points to other very good postings. It sound like you have a shortened cable that pulled out of the motor. This is a very typical failure of our cars. Do not exercise the top manually as you will damage the transmission and that will be a lot of money to fix. You can repair the cable, see links, or you can buy new ones. Excuse my posting as I made a mistake with the photos and some are missing.
It is s bit tedious of a job to fix the cable and the transmission but you will be knowledgeable when you finish and will not be afraid to leave the top in power mode. If you operate the top manually you will damaged the transmission and you will have to replace it when you go back to power. Your choice as an owner.
I personally have fixed my motor control board, re solder all connections, and completely overhauled both top transmissions and cable. I did it all myself and I am very confident that it will not malfunction for many years, your choice.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...pair-tips.html
It is s bit tedious of a job to fix the cable and the transmission but you will be knowledgeable when you finish and will not be afraid to leave the top in power mode. If you operate the top manually you will damaged the transmission and you will have to replace it when you go back to power. Your choice as an owner.
I personally have fixed my motor control board, re solder all connections, and completely overhauled both top transmissions and cable. I did it all myself and I am very confident that it will not malfunction for many years, your choice.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...pair-tips.html
I am usually a fan of using a car all years Long. But. Its winter in Norway and due to salting it will be stored in the garage at work. Just driving it as much as possible now to find out what needs to be done during storing
I need to sort out the screaming belts before i deal with the roof. Hopefully not more that down to belts and or pulleys. The previous owner has a cool dude who looks after his cars. He texted me that he will call tomorrow and walk me through the history of it.
I love the thought of fixing most myself. Its my GFs car but we are doing tvil together. Don't want to go to the Porsche garage (who charge 170$ an hour here) every time is shows a sign of not being a New VW but I have mostly worked with B6 A4, C5 Audi a6, BMW E39 5-series and L322 Range Rover. All much less valueable cars so really want to do my homework before attempting repairs. But I am enjoying this immeasureably.
#5
Squealing definitely sounds like belts that are going...same happened to me...do the dual pulley upgrade and new belt tension sensor while you're at it.
Brake Pad sensor might be a loose/bad sensor or you may just need new pads...I'd just replace them all anyway...go with OEM
You do know that the oil level gauge will read "0" when the car is moving right? When the car is fully warmed up, sitting still on a level surface, you should see the oil level gauge needle move up to about 1/4 or 1/3. If it doesn't, check your oil level with the dipstick. If you need oil....DO NOT OVERFILL IT
Brake Pad sensor might be a loose/bad sensor or you may just need new pads...I'd just replace them all anyway...go with OEM
You do know that the oil level gauge will read "0" when the car is moving right? When the car is fully warmed up, sitting still on a level surface, you should see the oil level gauge needle move up to about 1/4 or 1/3. If it doesn't, check your oil level with the dipstick. If you need oil....DO NOT OVERFILL IT
#7
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
2: The brake pad warning light comes of intermittent.
Check the pads visually.
Likely just a sensor plug is loose or dirty at a wheel end. I removed the sensors years ago and just soldered the sensor wires together and plugged them back in. A visual inspection of the brake pads every 30K miles makes the need for the sensors irrelevant.
Likely just a sensor plug is loose or dirty at a wheel end. I removed the sensors years ago and just soldered the sensor wires together and plugged them back in. A visual inspection of the brake pads every 30K miles makes the need for the sensors irrelevant.
3: The car squeals at low revs. Started doing it today, but it is really cold here. (4 degress celcius, which is around 40F). It screams like a frightened pig on acceleration, but got better when car was warm.
Belt is loose, considering the effort to adjust the belt tension I would just
replace the belts as they are inexpensive and and a good DIY project
replace the belts as they are inexpensive and and a good DIY project
4: Oil level clock in car is dead. Oil temp and oil pressure works fine.
Fill the oil using the dip stick. Be aware the oil gauge will likely sit at the bottom until the the engine and oil is HOT. Oil is measured with the gauge or dip stick with the oil HOT and the engine running. Refilling with more than 10 quarts with new (empty) filters is probably an overfill. Overfilled oil will be sucked off through the air intake resulting in the appearance of what looks like excessive oil consumption. Burning excess oil may also contribute to clogging the smog pump air injector ports. Many only fill the oil untill the oil guage with a HOT running engine floats to mid point on the gauge as it provides additional feadback as to oil fill and if the oil is full warmed.
Last edited by pp000830; 10-24-2016 at 08:10 AM.
Trending Topics
#8
Drifting
^^^Basically, what pp000830 said... My added info:
2. The pads new are about 2x the thickness of the metal backing plate. This will give you an idea of how much pad is left. If the pads are 1/2 the thickness of the backing plate, its about time to replace them. The wear sensors must be replaced once they turn the light on, since they get cut by the brake disc....and they often break when trying to swap them from old pads to new (luckily a <$10 item). While in there, you might measure the caliper thickness to see if they need replacement.
4. Oil gauges (plural) are very quirky, but informative after you've read up on them. Plenty of material in past posts to search. Careful filling, as it is only 1q (1L) from empty to over full. These cars like to be be in the middle of the range and will burn off oil if you fill more than 1/2 the dipstick range (again...one of the quirks...errr, pleasures, of the 993.)
Along with searching here on RL (see link in my signature below for some helpful hints), look at these RL'ers sites (not necessarily for your exact problems, but for the future):
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...1994_-_1998%29 <<---
www.jackals-forge.com/lotus/ >>--lots of DIY help under the 993 section.
http://www.bergvillfx.com/porschehvac1 <<--- our resident expert on HVAC, lights, and other misc electronics
Car is definitely a keeper....sounds like the girlfriend might be as well, due to her taste in cars! Cool that it used to be her Dad's car and she's got it back!
If you've worked on other cars, this will be no problem for you. The tough part is how stuffed in all the parts are due to the small size of the car and relatively poor access around the engine. But its part of the charm!
2. The pads new are about 2x the thickness of the metal backing plate. This will give you an idea of how much pad is left. If the pads are 1/2 the thickness of the backing plate, its about time to replace them. The wear sensors must be replaced once they turn the light on, since they get cut by the brake disc....and they often break when trying to swap them from old pads to new (luckily a <$10 item). While in there, you might measure the caliper thickness to see if they need replacement.
4. Oil gauges (plural) are very quirky, but informative after you've read up on them. Plenty of material in past posts to search. Careful filling, as it is only 1q (1L) from empty to over full. These cars like to be be in the middle of the range and will burn off oil if you fill more than 1/2 the dipstick range (again...one of the quirks...errr, pleasures, of the 993.)
Along with searching here on RL (see link in my signature below for some helpful hints), look at these RL'ers sites (not necessarily for your exact problems, but for the future):
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...1994_-_1998%29 <<---
www.jackals-forge.com/lotus/ >>--lots of DIY help under the 993 section.
http://www.bergvillfx.com/porschehvac1 <<--- our resident expert on HVAC, lights, and other misc electronics
Car is definitely a keeper....sounds like the girlfriend might be as well, due to her taste in cars! Cool that it used to be her Dad's car and she's got it back!
If you've worked on other cars, this will be no problem for you. The tough part is how stuffed in all the parts are due to the small size of the car and relatively poor access around the engine. But its part of the charm!
#9
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Brake light is actually almost 100% likely to be low brake fluid. If not, I'd look at the brae sensor as Andreas mentioned.
Squealing might very well be the belt tensioner.
Squealing might very well be the belt tensioner.
#10
Instructor
To operate the top the hand break needs to be engaged. As mentioned above there is a copper foil that is the contact to a switch. If this is not working the top will not operate. Make sure this is working and you my be in luck, it might be all is wrong with the top. Be careful when you are playing with the top you can bend the top frame and that is trouble.
#11
Squealing definitely sounds like belts that are going...same happened to me...do the dual pulley upgrade and new belt tension sensor while you're at it.
Brake Pad sensor might be a loose/bad sensor or you may just need new pads...I'd just replace them all anyway...go with OEM
You do know that the oil level gauge will read "0" when the car is moving right? When the car is fully warmed up, sitting still on a level surface, you should see the oil level gauge needle move up to about 1/4 or 1/3. If it doesn't, check your oil level with the dipstick. If you need oil....DO NOT OVERFILL IT
Brake Pad sensor might be a loose/bad sensor or you may just need new pads...I'd just replace them all anyway...go with OEM
You do know that the oil level gauge will read "0" when the car is moving right? When the car is fully warmed up, sitting still on a level surface, you should see the oil level gauge needle move up to about 1/4 or 1/3. If it doesn't, check your oil level with the dipstick. If you need oil....DO NOT OVERFILL IT
I havent had a good look at the pads yet, but know the rotors were new last year. So would be surprised if they are worn down from the 5000-6000 km since they were replaced, presuming pads and rotors were changed at the same time.
Anyway, used to the brake pad warning system from BMWs. Not worried.
#12
To operate the top the hand break needs to be engaged. As mentioned above there is a copper foil that is the contact to a switch. If this is not working the top will not operate. Make sure this is working and you my be in luck, it might be all is wrong with the top. Be careful when you are playing with the top you can bend the top frame and that is trouble.
#13
^^^Basically, what pp000830 said... My added info:
2. The pads new are about 2x the thickness of the metal backing plate. This will give you an idea of how much pad is left. If the pads are 1/2 the thickness of the backing plate, its about time to replace them. The wear sensors must be replaced once they turn the light on, since they get cut by the brake disc....and they often break when trying to swap them from old pads to new (luckily a <$10 item). While in there, you might measure the caliper thickness to see if they need replacement.
4. Oil gauges (plural) are very quirky, but informative after you've read up on them. Plenty of material in past posts to search. Careful filling, as it is only 1q (1L) from empty to over full. These cars like to be be in the middle of the range and will burn off oil if you fill more than 1/2 the dipstick range (again...one of the quirks...errr, pleasures, of the 993.)
Along with searching here on RL (see link in my signature below for some helpful hints), look at these RL'ers sites (not necessarily for your exact problems, but for the future):
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...1994_-_1998%29 <<---
www.jackals-forge.com/lotus/ >>--lots of DIY help under the 993 section.
http://www.bergvillfx.com/porschehvac1 <<--- our resident expert on HVAC, lights, and other misc electronics
Car is definitely a keeper....sounds like the girlfriend might be as well, due to her taste in cars! Cool that it used to be her Dad's car and she's got it back!
If you've worked on other cars, this will be no problem for you. The tough part is how stuffed in all the parts are due to the small size of the car and relatively poor access around the engine. But its part of the charm!
2. The pads new are about 2x the thickness of the metal backing plate. This will give you an idea of how much pad is left. If the pads are 1/2 the thickness of the backing plate, its about time to replace them. The wear sensors must be replaced once they turn the light on, since they get cut by the brake disc....and they often break when trying to swap them from old pads to new (luckily a <$10 item). While in there, you might measure the caliper thickness to see if they need replacement.
4. Oil gauges (plural) are very quirky, but informative after you've read up on them. Plenty of material in past posts to search. Careful filling, as it is only 1q (1L) from empty to over full. These cars like to be be in the middle of the range and will burn off oil if you fill more than 1/2 the dipstick range (again...one of the quirks...errr, pleasures, of the 993.)
Along with searching here on RL (see link in my signature below for some helpful hints), look at these RL'ers sites (not necessarily for your exact problems, but for the future):
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...1994_-_1998%29 <<---
www.jackals-forge.com/lotus/ >>--lots of DIY help under the 993 section.
http://www.bergvillfx.com/porschehvac1 <<--- our resident expert on HVAC, lights, and other misc electronics
Car is definitely a keeper....sounds like the girlfriend might be as well, due to her taste in cars! Cool that it used to be her Dad's car and she's got it back!
If you've worked on other cars, this will be no problem for you. The tough part is how stuffed in all the parts are due to the small size of the car and relatively poor access around the engine. But its part of the charm!