Trying to verify hollow spokes straight and true
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Trying to verify hollow spokes straight and true
Before purchasing. Not sure how to read these test results that were sent to me. Just want to be very sure before paying premium for "as-new" wheels. Anyone know how to read these screens? I have a couple options to buy hollow spokes, trying to validate the truest and nicest refinished. Thanks!
#5
Are those readouts of just the wheels, or are they mounted with tires? They would be very common values for mounted wheels. If mounted it looks fine, it would be just "heavy" spots in the wheel/tire combo if you're really concerned you could have the tires matched to the wheel by rotating the heavy spots 180º from each other.
The only thing that sticks out to me is the lateral runout on wheel # 3, for a Porsche wheel it looks a little high. The best values to look at are under the "Smart Weight"
The only thing that sticks out to me is the lateral runout on wheel # 3, for a Porsche wheel it looks a little high. The best values to look at are under the "Smart Weight"
#6
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
These are wheels only, no tires on them.
Sounds like maybe a pass. They need to be perfect.
Thanks for the feedback.
Sounds like maybe a pass. They need to be perfect.
Thanks for the feedback.
Last edited by mrsullivan; 08-23-2016 at 02:39 AM.
#7
I don't have a lot of experience with the hollow-spoke wheels per se, but those values are above what I would expect for stock Porsche wheels (BBS I believe). On the other hand, it wouldn't be uncommon for aftermarket wheels though... it's your call. You most likely won't notice it after the wheels are balanced.
The best way to tell, is by spinning the wheel up on the balancer and running your hand on the wheel (w/ gloves) and feeling the vertical and horizontal runout of the wheel.
The best way to tell, is by spinning the wheel up on the balancer and running your hand on the wheel (w/ gloves) and feeling the vertical and horizontal runout of the wheel.
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#8
If you choose to go ahead with the wheels, have the shop balance match the tire to the wheel using a Road-forcer, the shop might hate you after it, but you will love the balance. Ask me how I know... hahaha
#9
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Seems to me a careful inspection of the tire bead mating point on the rim as it rotates at low speed would give away a bent rim. Close observation of the metal on the rim seems to me would show signs of being repaired,
#10
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Thing is, some of these shops do a beautiful job of refinishing the wheels cosmetically. This set looks like jewelry. But if the wheel is not as-new straight and true, it's not worth paying a premium for the cosmetic beauty.
The wheels aren't local so can't inspect and run my hands on them unfortunately.
Thanks for the input so far, love RENNLIST
The wheels aren't local so can't inspect and run my hands on them unfortunately.
Thanks for the input so far, love RENNLIST
#11
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Why not buy a set and have them refurbish yourself? That way you know the condition before and after. You also get to choose how you want the rims stripped of paint. Some blast them others remove the paint in a chemical bath.
By now the rims are 20 years old. Buying secondhand there are no way of knowing their true condition without stripping them.
By now the rims are 20 years old. Buying secondhand there are no way of knowing their true condition without stripping them.
#12
They are part way there. Leave the wheel on the balancer and check with a dial indicator for concentricity and lateral run out. Check on the bead surface that is what really matters.