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Old 10-17-2016, 04:56 PM
  #106  
Enso
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Originally Posted by Paul M
Hey Glenn - On your rear struts, I believe you need a locking collar below the drop link attachment to prevent it rotating and breaking the link or causing other damage...
Hey Paul

Thanks for looking am i missing something? the sway bar and drop links aren't assembled yet. Because i have to transport it on a flat bed i inserted the cross brace for now just for support

Motor will go back in in the new year and then the rest of the rear will be assemble

I appreciate good tips
cheer
glenn
Old 10-17-2016, 07:56 PM
  #107  
Paul M
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There are two schools of thought. Do a search on here for "PSS10 locking collar," and you should see a few results. If you want to add a collar, now would be the time to do it before everything starts getting reassembled.
Old 10-18-2016, 11:07 AM
  #108  
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Like this?
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Old 10-18-2016, 02:48 PM
  #109  
Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
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Depending on the position of the swaybar mounts, I will add an additional lock ring under the mount so it cannot move under any circumstances.
Old 10-18-2016, 02:50 PM
  #110  
Paul M
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The folks that want additional insurance against the mount spinning add an extra collar below the mount (collar available from bilstein suppliers for $15-20 each) in addition to the one above. Several installers have stated that if the drop link mount is installed and oriented correctly that only one collar (above) is required.

This is what can happen if it moves: https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...itional+collar

Here is a pic with two collars:

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Old 10-18-2016, 09:47 PM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by Paul M
The folks that want additional insurance against the mount spinning add an extra collar below the mount (collar available from bilstein suppliers for $15-20 each) in addition to the one above. Several installers have stated that if the drop link mount is installed and oriented correctly that only one collar (above) is required.

This is what can happen if it moves: https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...itional+collar

Here is a pic with two collars:

Attachment 1099583
well we certainly don't want that!
thanks for the tips Steve & Paul

I'll be locking them down lickety split
Old 12-09-2016, 03:41 PM
  #112  
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It's off to the paint shop for stripping and new paint
Glen is an old friend of mine that lives in a small town that runs a body shop. Meticulous work!

I'll be getting a new windshield too.

Hope to have it back in January
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Old 12-10-2016, 09:47 AM
  #113  
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Glenn, are you staying black or going with a different colour?

I just had a full respray done and stayed with black; although I was seriously tempted to change to arena red, I balked at dropping the engine again to paint the engine bay.

With the engine out, you're in a good position to do a colour change if you're of a mind to do so. Either way, it's gonna look fantastic!

Btw it's a bitch to get the fuel door cable threaded back through when you put the fenders back on. Leave lots of time and patience for this job, and good luck!
Old 12-10-2016, 10:56 AM
  #114  
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Will you be taking the doors off and painting the jams?
If not, will you be taking window frames off of the door so they don't inhibit paint from being sprayed on the upper portion of the body (around the frame)?
I'll be doing a re-paint as well and I'm unsure about the best way to go about this.
Old 12-13-2016, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by bcameron59
Glenn, are you staying black or going with a different colour?

I just had a full respray done and stayed with black; although I was seriously tempted to change to arena red, I balked at dropping the engine again to paint the engine bay.

With the engine out, you're in a good position to do a colour change if you're of a mind to do so. Either way, it's gonna look fantastic!

Btw it's a bitch to get the fuel door cable threaded back through when you put the fenders back on. Leave lots of time and patience for this job, and good luck!
Hey Neighbour I'll be keeping the same original black. I thought about a change but decided to keep most upgrades I'm doing authentic
I should be starting the strip down in about a week
I intend to put a 3M Shield on the front and in the stone guard area...after the the paint is finished settling

Thanks for the fuel line tip
Old 12-13-2016, 09:24 AM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by the_bg
Will you be taking the doors off and painting the jams?
If not, will you be taking window frames off of the door so they don't inhibit paint from being sprayed on the upper portion of the body (around the frame)?
I'll be doing a re-paint as well and I'm unsure about the best way to go about this.
I'm not sure if the doors will be coming off yet, all the window framing is removed, it's going right done to the metal.
The car has zero rust so Im glad I don't have to worry about body work
I'll be posting pics as it goes
Old 12-13-2016, 09:28 AM
  #117  
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Default Front Windshield Help

I'll be needing to replace the front windshield (it cracked when removing it)
Does anyone know if a 1996 windshield is the same as a 1995?
I found someone who has a new 1996

Thanks for your help!

Glenn
Old 12-13-2016, 01:51 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by Enso
I'll be needing to replace the front windshield (it cracked when removing it)
Does anyone know if a 1996 windshield is the same as a 1995?
I found someone who has a new 1996

Thanks for your help!

Glenn
Go for it!!
Old 12-13-2016, 03:06 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
Go for it!!
Thanks Steve, i will
Old 12-13-2016, 05:03 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by Enso
It's off to the paint shop for stripping and new paint
Glen is an old friend of mine that lives in a small town that runs a body shop. Meticulous work!

I'll be getting a new windshield too.

Hope to have it back in January

Ah, the great Canadian prairies. Feels like home.


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