Hard Brake Line Installation DIY tips - Rear
#1
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Hard Brake Line Installation DIY tips - Rear
Guys, this last weekend I replaced the hard brake lines in the rear after a failed attempt at installing new brake hoses. The short story is that I rounded off the flair nuts on the back of the brake hose bracket. No amount of PB blaster, heat, flare nut wrenches/vice grips could save them. To solve the problem I bought new hard lines. The part numbers are: 993-335-190 and 993-355-189-04. The total cost with shipping from Sunset Porsche was $95.70. In order to remove the old brake hose i used some tin snips to cut the rubber brake hose and then drilled out the old flare nut. Tip: Make sure to pry the old hard line clamp off in order to pull apart the old hose and hard line otherwise you won't be able to separate. The driver side hard line was very easy to install. However, the passenger side is a complete pain in the ***!!! The reason it's difficult is because you need to somehow get the hard line to pass over the transmission and under a series of rubber hoses, and around random bits and pieces. It is like solving a brain tease puzzle but IT IS POSSIBLE! In order to get it in place you will need to disassemble three odd's and ends (The last three pictures). Unfortunately, the only thing I recognized was the bracket attached to the line going to the clutch slave cylinder. I tried installing from the inside out (wheel to the brake line splitter) and then the outside in. Ultimately I was successful working from the outside in. So that I didn't contaminate the new line I used a little electrical tape to tape to seal off the end going to the brake line splitter. The brake side of the line came with a little plastic protective cover. I was very careful to not drastically bend the line during the install so that I didn't put a kink or crack the line. However, there are a few moments where I needed to forcefully move the line around something where I put a slight bend in the line that I carefully bent back into shape. I highly recommend positioning the new line in place before removing the old line, just in case you can't figure out how to put it in position. The last thing you will need to do is bleed the brakes...I used it as an opportunity to bleed the slave master too. Good luck!
The following 2 users liked this post by 996 GT2:
Matthew So (02-17-2022),
willus (01-02-2021)
#3
RL Community Team
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Did you have a lift to do this?
#6
#7
Unfortunately it looks like i have to do this. I have a pinhole sized leak at the rear passenger hard line. Does anyone else recognize what needs to be disconnected to snake the hard line all the way through?
Also, i think the part number in the first post has a typo. Passenger rear is 993-355-190-05 and driver rear is 993-355-189-04.
Also, i think the part number in the first post has a typo. Passenger rear is 993-355-190-05 and driver rear is 993-355-189-04.
Guys, this last weekend I replaced the hard brake lines in the rear after a failed attempt at installing new brake hoses. The short story is that I rounded off the flair nuts on the back of the brake hose bracket. No amount of PB blaster, heat, flare nut wrenches/vice grips could save them. To solve the problem I bought new hard lines. The part numbers are: 993-335-190 and 993-355-189-04. The total cost with shipping from Sunset Porsche was $95.70. In order to remove the old brake hose i used some tin snips to cut the rubber brake hose and then drilled out the old flare nut. Tip: Make sure to pry the old hard line clamp off in order to pull apart the old hose and hard line otherwise you won't be able to separate. The driver side hard line was very easy to install. However, the passenger side is a complete pain in the ***!!! The reason it's difficult is because you need to somehow get the hard line to pass over the transmission and under a series of rubber hoses, and around random bits and pieces. It is like solving a brain tease puzzle but IT IS POSSIBLE! In order to get it in place you will need to disassemble three odd's and ends (The last three pictures). Unfortunately, the only thing I recognized was the bracket attached to the line going to the clutch slave cylinder. I tried installing from the inside out (wheel to the brake line splitter) and then the outside in. Ultimately I was successful working from the outside in. So that I didn't contaminate the new line I used a little electrical tape to tape to seal off the end going to the brake line splitter. The brake side of the line came with a little plastic protective cover. I was very careful to not drastically bend the line during the install so that I didn't put a kink or crack the line. However, there are a few moments where I needed to forcefully move the line around something where I put a slight bend in the line that I carefully bent back into shape. I highly recommend positioning the new line in place before removing the old line, just in case you can't figure out how to put it in position. The last thing you will need to do is bleed the brakes...I used it as an opportunity to bleed the slave master too. Good luck!
Last edited by paranoidandroid; 02-15-2022 at 05:00 PM.
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#8
mine is stripped as well and thought i needed to drop the trans+engine to route it.. mabe ill try it as im running on 3 new + 1 old (at least its the rear).. will give it a go!
Question - do you think you can snake in the new one while the old is still attached? want to get it in before cutting out the old one to make sure I can get it done.
Thanks!!
phil.
Question - do you think you can snake in the new one while the old is still attached? want to get it in before cutting out the old one to make sure I can get it done.
Thanks!!
phil.
#9
Yes, you can. I crawled under the car last night. there's plenty of room to snake it. I'm having a custom line made so i have to cut mine out to make a replacement. If you order a factory line you shouild be able to run it in parallel without having to remove the old line.