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In my experience the RS motor mounts didn't make much of a change with the shifting. My car had about 19K miles and 17 years on it and the original motor mounts look brand new. The only difference I can tell is at idle and a slight increase in vibration mainly felt at the pedals. Not really in the shift ****. This is on a '97 turbo.
All posters have given good advice. My vote is for new motor mounts which will make a huge difference in shifting. I installed the RS mounts which are less than half the cost of the OEM mounts. Stiffer than OEM, some minimal transmission of engine noise; but a huge difference in shifting. The age of your car, not the mileage is the key. All rubber is suspect.
I went with stock motor mounts...I was told the RS mounts are rougher and will feel everything but better handling.
Bobby, can you do this with a partial drop, or does the motor have to come out?
I know you're gonna say its much easier with the motor out...What motor/trans work wouldn't be!
Unlike earlier 911 the engine does not have to come out to remove the transmission or service the clutch. These items can be removed from below. Considerably fewer hours involved.
Andy
As suggested by several of you I'll start by bleeding the clutch slave and change the motor mounts (I'll probably stick to stock mounts), and possibly a RS transmission mount. Thank you all for the great suggestions !
In my original post I mentioned 2 problems, the notchy gearbox (not notchy clutch pedal) and jerky gear changes. After cleaning the ISV (I used White Lightening Clean Streak bike degreaser - amazing stuff) the jerkiness is all but gone - is this possible or is it just in my head ?? I also changed gas to Shell 91 octane without ethanol which probably also had an effect on the timing...
I won't get to the mounts for another week or two but I'll keep everyone posted :-)
Its hard to tell if the motor mounts are shot by looking at a pix. See if you can get a finger in between the mount. If you can, they are sagging. If you said you wanted to change the trans mount to an RS style, that is not an easy job. The trans mount is a press fit. It requires some type of tool to press it in. You can probably remove the old one by carefully removing the rubber and then collapsing the shell then knock it out. Like I said, it is not easy. I did mine with the transmission out of the car using a hydraulic press. I remember thinking that this job would suck if attempting it with the trans hanging in the car. I believe the RS motor mounts are less expensive than the factory hydraulic mounts. There is a company that sells knock off RS mounts for approx. 118 for the pair. You still need washers and long bolts to mount RS as they are a different arrangement than stock. This will firm things up a little. If the input shaft has rusted or corroded from sitting ( 27k equals a lot of sitting) simply driving it should work itself in.
I would change gear oil, flush and bleed clutch actuating system and then drive it. If you want to change parts, I would consider the RS motor mounts before the trans mount based on ease of installation. Also note, there is a company that makes a trans mount insert that is installed in addition to the stock trans mount. This part is expensive for what it is ( 130 dollars iirc) but it is priced based on the cost of an RS mount ( near $300) and ease of installation.
I just recently did all this work, so my reference point is accurate.
[QUOTE=pozzello;12388108]So I checked my engine mounts and exhaust height - how do they look (I'm thinking they're toast...) ?
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Looks low, but only way to know for sure is to slide a jack under the engine and see if the exhaust tips rise up when jacking. If so you're definitely ready.
Foxman hit the nail on the head. Jack it up, even just slightly, on the motor block spline (with a hockey puck cushion or else), and see how far everything moves. Either way, motor mounts are a maintenance item and should be changed out if they are factory after all these years or after substantial mileage has been put on a set. The Wevo blacks are cheap, quiet, and cheaper to maintain with the swappable pillows.
So I checked my engine mounts and exhaust height - how do they look (I'm thinking they're toast...) ?
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Looks low, but only way to know for sure is to slide a jack under the engine and see if the exhaust tips rise up when jacking. If so you're definitely ready.
Good suggestion - I'll try to get around to it tonight !
Looks low, but only way to know for sure is to slide a jack under the engine and see if the exhaust tips rise up when jacking. If so you're definitely ready.
So last night I jacked up the engine and the tips rise right away (no slack). All the pictures of worn engine mounts look 'extended/slack' like mine but they've all been photographed already removed from the car. New engine mounts (unmounted) don't have any gap but again maybe they extend after being installed... though if that were the case the tips would move up when jacking the engine.
Since my passenger side one is 'oily' on the bottom and it's a cheap fix I'll install new ones and take pictures of what new installed engine mounts look like to settle this once and for all :-)
So last night I jacked up the engine and the tips rise right away (no slack). All the pictures of worn engine mounts look 'extended/slack' like mine but they've all been photographed already removed from the car. New engine mounts (unmounted) don't have any gap but again maybe they extend after being installed... though if that were the case the tips would move up when jacking the engine.
Since my passenger side one is 'oily' on the bottom and it's a cheap fix I'll install new ones and take pictures of what new installed engine mounts look like to settle this once and for all :-)
For genuine C2 mounts, yes. Well, probably more like $700 less shipping from a discount source like Sunset. You may consider the C4 or RS mounts if you want to keep with genuine parts.
You'll find a lot of happy folks with aftermarket mounts as well - Wevos or the new Rennline tunable ones look excellent.
The RS mounts are fine-they aren't "rough" as mentioned above. They will certainly improve over shot stock. The only NVH on mine is when I run ac. I can hear a faint whir when the compressor cycles. Factory parts at a decent price.
06-25-2015, 03:27 PM
