Tie rod pinning question
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Tie rod pinning question
Hello all, yes I searched with no answer ( so far).
Does anyone know the optimal pin side and drill bit size to pin the tie rods? Also, is the pin used a solid pin or a hollow compress-able pin?
Any help here with the sizes will be a big help to me, also if anyone has determined an optimal angle to use, would also be a big help, as I slide further and further down the slope!!!
Thanks in advance
Rich
Does anyone know the optimal pin side and drill bit size to pin the tie rods? Also, is the pin used a solid pin or a hollow compress-able pin?
Any help here with the sizes will be a big help to me, also if anyone has determined an optimal angle to use, would also be a big help, as I slide further and further down the slope!!!
Thanks in advance
Rich
#2
Rich,
Its a compressible steel roll pin...Cant positively remember the drill size, but 5/16 comes to mind.
You pin both sides (R & L). Optimal angle is centered on the tie rod, with as much clocking off the 6 o'clock position, as your drill will allow.
Its a compressible steel roll pin...Cant positively remember the drill size, but 5/16 comes to mind.
You pin both sides (R & L). Optimal angle is centered on the tie rod, with as much clocking off the 6 o'clock position, as your drill will allow.
Last edited by nine9six; 05-22-2015 at 01:51 PM.
#4
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Marco Island, FL and sometimes New Jersey
Posts: 1,377
Received 426 Likes
on
268 Posts
Send a private message to "Mike J". I'm sure he can help.
But, better yet, why don't we get back on the list for the tool and we can get a few NJ cars together to pin? The tie rod pinning tool is a drill jig (it sets the angle) and it has a bunch of pins in it.
/
But, better yet, why don't we get back on the list for the tool and we can get a few NJ cars together to pin? The tie rod pinning tool is a drill jig (it sets the angle) and it has a bunch of pins in it.
/
#6
Drifting
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yes, please send it to Fatmike, thank you. Mike is close to me, and I have a lift. I would like to help Mike get his done too for helping me out with my transmission.
Mike we are back on!!!
Mike we are back on!!!
Trending Topics
#8
Drifting
#9
Drifting
#11
I was Mike J's assistant at the grand pinning event last summer. We did something in the order of twenty cars over the course of the day. The operation is hard on drill bits so having a few fresh ones on hand is wise. In terms of size, I can't remember...somewhere in the area of 1/4-5/16". When pounding the rolled pin in, it is wise to have someone "dampen" the pounding action by hanging onto the steering arm. Cheers
#12
Rennlist Member
All the dimensions & technique required are listed in this thread.
As far as drilling angle, whatever is comfortable works ... the 5/16" X1.5" roll pin ( actually 8mm) can be gently tapped in - no BFH blows req'd.
As far as drilling angle, whatever is comfortable works ... the 5/16" X1.5" roll pin ( actually 8mm) can be gently tapped in - no BFH blows req'd.
#14
Sure...try it. Maintaining alignment of the pin with the opening would be the challenge. Perhaps tapping to start it and using the clamp draw it in. I'm not sure how to gauge how hard you need to hit the pin but suffice it to say, at Mike J's event, the pins/holes combo were snug....the way I see it, as they should be. Cheers
#15
Burning Brakes
When you said angle, were you referring to the drill bit angle or the angle that the drill bit enters the work piece?
I would use 135 degree High Speed Steel (HSS) drill bits, split points will let you use less pressure but aren't necessary. Cobalts are great for drill presses and people with more experience holding drills straight, but they are also more brittle than HSS drill bits and tend to break.
The drill bit should always enter the work piece at 90 degrees (tangent).
I would use 135 degree High Speed Steel (HSS) drill bits, split points will let you use less pressure but aren't necessary. Cobalts are great for drill presses and people with more experience holding drills straight, but they are also more brittle than HSS drill bits and tend to break.
The drill bit should always enter the work piece at 90 degrees (tangent).