Car for sale needs a top end
04-27-2015, 10:59 AM
#16
Three Wheelin'
. It all depends on how much of the "while you are in there" stuff you also want to take care of, but if you just take care of the valve guides that seems pretty accurate - I would look at my receipts to verify but that is against the rules.
04-27-2015, 12:44 PM
#17
RL Technical Advisor
Given the wide disparities that I see in the quality of valve jobs, this is something I wouldn't pay a premium for.
I would really prefer to do this myself so I know its done properly and will last the life of the engine.
I would really prefer to do this myself so I know its done properly and will last the life of the engine.
04-27-2015, 03:12 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
Tough choices.
If I was looking at a car that needed a top end it would need to be a deal or a car that was special to me in some way (color, options, mint otherwise, etc.).
Purchasing a car that had the top end done 15-20k miles ago is a big plus, as it's proved itself to a certain point.
Purchasing one that just had it done can be an unknown.
That being said, I'd rather have it done myself as there are always the "while we are in there" items that a seller might not choose to do, whereas, I would. Therein, you've built a relationship with the builder who would warranty their work. Hard for a west coast buyer to obtain any warranty work should it arise.
Also, do you want to deal with the phone calls from the builder asking "shall we do this or not?".
Just my opinion, but if it was me selling, I'd send it along. It would be much less hassle for me in the long run.
Best of luck with whichever route you choose.
Regards,
.
If I was looking at a car that needed a top end it would need to be a deal or a car that was special to me in some way (color, options, mint otherwise, etc.).
Purchasing a car that had the top end done 15-20k miles ago is a big plus, as it's proved itself to a certain point.
Purchasing one that just had it done can be an unknown.
That being said, I'd rather have it done myself as there are always the "while we are in there" items that a seller might not choose to do, whereas, I would. Therein, you've built a relationship with the builder who would warranty their work. Hard for a west coast buyer to obtain any warranty work should it arise.
Also, do you want to deal with the phone calls from the builder asking "shall we do this or not?".
Just my opinion, but if it was me selling, I'd send it along. It would be much less hassle for me in the long run.
Best of luck with whichever route you choose.
Regards,
.
04-27-2015, 03:45 PM
#22
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Would you prefer to buy a car with a very recent top end or buy the car with a discount so you can have the work done at the shop of your choosing. I have read people advise against buying cars with recent engine work for fear of unknown issues. I had planned to do the top end in the next month or so but a 993 c4s just came on my radar and I may consider selling to upgrade. Any advise would be appreciated, thanks
Better than 50/50 it doesn't need any head work. Could just be an oil leak. If it is losing enough oil to warrant a top end job oil via burning the OBDC system should be having a field day with multiple codes.
Andy
04-27-2015, 04:11 PM
#23
Race Director
04-27-2015, 04:32 PM
#24
Drifting
A quart for every 500 miles due to oil leak??? He should have puddles on the floor anywhere he parks if this is due to an oil leak.
04-27-2015, 07:56 PM
#26
Drifting
04-27-2015, 09:45 PM
#27
Rennlist Member
How full do you keep the oil tank?
When I kept mine at the full level I'd go through easily a qt per 600 miles, now I keep it at min - 1/4 I use barely a qt every 2500 miles. Even now, after spirited driving, the oil can expand to over 1/2 full.
When I kept mine at the full level I'd go through easily a qt per 600 miles, now I keep it at min - 1/4 I use barely a qt every 2500 miles. Even now, after spirited driving, the oil can expand to over 1/2 full.
04-28-2015, 07:11 PM
#29
Rennlist Member
04-29-2015, 11:52 AM
#30
3K (in parts and head machining) is about the minimum if you're DIY. Done it myself, can't get it much lower than that. The DIY route saves 40 hrs of labor which is about 4K. That makes for a 7K top end... with no unexpected issue.
As for buying one that was DIY, if the car runs great without issue for 10K miles, I am pretty sure the rebuilt worked.
I clocked 80K on my DIY topend. I finally got the courage to sell off the tools/stuff needed for the rebuild.
As for buying one that was DIY, if the car runs great without issue for 10K miles, I am pretty sure the rebuilt worked.
I clocked 80K on my DIY topend. I finally got the courage to sell off the tools/stuff needed for the rebuild.