txhokie4life

96 Cab Tip.

Yes I know there are a million if not more topics -- but I searched and
didn't specifically see my issue.

If I missed one -- then a pointer would be great.

This is my wife's 993 -- so I don't know all the details... but this is what i know.

today, twice -- the 993 alarm went off and went through several of its cycles.
First time she was able to wait long enough and get it to start.
Second time she gave up waiting multiple 4 minute plus cycles.

I went back up there: What I noticed is that I did the key fob and it immediately clicked -- seemed like it activated the alarm. I then used the key in drivers door.
It beeped once and then about 1 sec later -- the alarm triggered.
Horn fired, and I could see the door led quick firing.

I was able to use the door key and pull the handle to get in.
Then I just sat there ~4 min later the horn stopped (I brought ear plugs and avoided the stares :-), a few minutes later the flashers stopped.
I believe I tried to turn on the car and hit the key fob while in the ignition a few times while the horns were firing. No dice.

Once the lights stopped flashing I was able to turn the key and press the alarm on the FOB and the car started. I did notice the key switch LED on the center console switch was illuminated. I did not touch it.

Got home, turned off the car -- got out shut the door, opened, and climbed back in and I was able to start the car without needing the FOB.

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So what I think I know:

FOB works -- it at least appeared to trigger the alarm, but not unlock it.
It also communicated with the Immobilizer after the alarm stopped triggering.

I did have some service work done and the battery may have been disconnected.
I have driven since then -- but I never lock it -- so I'm not sure the alarm was engaged until today.

Is there some sort of learning required for the alarm -- as the FOB worked fine with Immobilizer - and also seemed to trigger the doors to lock.
It just won't unlock things.

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I plan to go back out after work and try some experiments -- but I'd like to be a bit informed before I do so.

How many beeps should I get when I turn the key in the drivers door if things are working properly?

If the alarm sets by the FOB -- what should I expect --
? blinking door leds?
? what should happen if I pull the door handle?

I also saw a post that could disable the alarm system via key turns in the ignition.
How long does this last and does this disable the central locking and remote locking?

I clearly have to find a solution -- or the wife won't drive it -- selling is not an option :-)

thanks,

Mike

txhokie4life

Went out to the garage to take a look again.

I was able to use the key fob to lock the doors and alarm the system.
I think I got two head lamp blinks and the door locks engaged.
Got a steady 1/2hz (1 per 2 sec) LED blink.

However, the FOB would not open the car. Doors were definitely locked.
Same steady 1/2hz (1 per 2 sec) LED blink.

Using the key I turned CCW, got a beep, with a pause -- then the alarm triggered. I could not get the alarm to stop nor could I get the key or fob by itself to allow entry -- I was able to get entry by turning the key and pulling on the door handle simultaneously.

I didn't try to start it.

mike

txhokie4life

Pulled out my durametric to read alarm fault codes.

Ironically it would not give me anything other than the Alarm Ecu information
until I cleared the faults -- then I could read the faults below:

Block 0 (ECU Type) I02ALARM
Block 1 (Porsche Part Number) 92861826003
Block 2 (Vendor Part Number) 181996008019
Block 3 (Software Number)

14
Position of the drive elements implausible

16
Engine comp. open during activation

18
Glove comp. open during activation

I checked the glove compartment and it seemed to operate fine, light coming on when you
open. Same for the engine lid.

What in the world is the position of the drive elements?

thanks,

Mike

NoRush993/951

I went thru something similar on my 96 cab. Turned out that one of the alarm modules under the passenger seat fried out due to the failing spring in the ignition column. Pull up my past posts on the topic. It's not uncommon. It could be something else of course, but it's happened to several of us on here. And is that alarm loud or what. I swear it's extra loud when sitting in the driver's seat.

txhokie4life

Wow, that things louder than my RSR, and more persistent

Read your post. One delta I see is my fob lets me lock the doors, just won't open them, or disengage the alarm.

I'm curious what the implausible driveline error means......
Think it's trying to tell me something

Mike

NoRush993/951

I also got locked out prior to replacing the alarm module for a couple days. Then it decided to open and I stopped locking it. Most annoying thing I've experienced during my 15 years of ownership of this car.

txhokie4life

For the moment, I think I have resolved this.

Duramatic was giving complaints about

Drive implausible
Glove box
Engine compartment

I checked the engine compartment and the switch was fine, connection appeared good as well.
Glove box seemed to function properly.

Last night I pulled the battery. This morning I reconnected. Pulled up the duramatic and still
got my 3 errors. I'd clear them, then read them, did this a couple times. Tried it
with the glove box open -- same thing. I then opened the passenger door and left it open,
cleared the codes and re-read -- they were gone. Didn't come back. I switched off power,
switched it back on, got out of the duramatic software and back in. Codes still gone.

Feeling brave I remove keys and get out of car. FOB locks car, all looks good. FOB unlocks car.
Try this a couple times, climb back in, check Duramatic, no codes.... car starts fine (it always did).

Get back out, try a few more times -- 1 time it did not lock with FOB, tried several times,
went and grabbed my ear plugs and walked around to passenger door.

Used key to lock from passenger door -- no alarm, all leds flashes looked right. FOB opened door.

Repeated FOB unlock, lock several times. Seems like things are working.

I left the car unlocked, walked away for 5-10 minutes -- noticed LEDs flashing -- grabbed FOB,
it unlocked it. Tried the FOB lock, unlock again -- all good.

Had to run to work -- left it unlocked -- will check to see if it self-arms itself.

Anyway -- at least 9 of 10 times it seemed to behave just fine. I think 1 time I had to press the FOB twice, first click heard something from drivers side but no alarm set. 1 more click, got definite lock
and LED flashes.

Will keep an eye on things -- but I think with the previous SAI work I had done the battery must have been disconnected and reconnected with an unknown door/trunk status.

Can't swear I know the magical sequence, but I think somewhere between resetting codes with Duramatic and forcing a different state by intentionally leaving triggers open while resetting seemed
to do the trick.

Now when I get home -- I expect everything to be SNAFU again -- but maybe not :-)

Mike

NoRush993/951

Now go drive the car and then repark in the garage and see if it still all works.

txhokie4life

Just when I think I got things licked.


Went out this morning - it had locked itself.
Tried with the FOB and it would not unlock on,
walked to passenger side and if I tried it a couple times
and held it, it did the pre-unlock -- then unlock.

Decided to replace the battery in the FOB -- grabbed a battery I assumed
was good -- by the time I had replaced it, the car had armed itself.

Now the FOB had no effect. Key in door -- alarm triggers -- ugh -- where are those f-ing ear plugs....

I hate to throw money at a problem without knowing -- but it might be time to
try a new alarm module.

tonite I'll pull out my duramatic and check the codes and see whats is what.

With it auto-arming itself and the FOB not working, I've actually taken a step back -- it really was ok to not have the alarm work but be drivable.

ughh,

Mike

NoRush993/951

My money is on one of the alarm modules is fried due to the failing spring contact in the steering lock mechanism. You will have to reprogram the fobs when replacing that alarm module. Unless you have zen patience, it might not be a bad idea to let the dealer do it. Reprogramming those fobs I gave up trying to do.

txhokie4life

Is there a way to test this before just replacing hardware?

Is it the steering lock -- or ignition lock?

thanks,

Mike

NoRush993/951

It's the steering lock. Search and read my 11/14/14 post on the topic as I posted pictures. I'm sure the dealer could diagnose it pretty quickly if you point them in the right direction so they don't inflate the bill trying to figure it out. That spring simply starts wearing out and this issue is starting to pop up on more cars over time.

txhokie4life

I'd rather pay a bit to get a tool than just R&R.

I picked up a UDT-999 to query the alarm.

It lists a few things which are hard to decipher:

Hatch, Hood, Tailgate. Which is which?

It also says:

Activate alarm: open,
Deactivate alarm: open

Lock pos. closed: open
Lock pos. open: closed

However Door open: closed (and responds open and closed) as I open or close either door. (I didn't double check the Lock pos when I did this)

Mike

txhokie4life

This is with me in the car -- I have opened and closed each door (and noticed it react), I have open and closed the hatch (front trunk lid) and watched it trigger.

I opened and closed the convertible top with no reaction.

I opened and closed the rear engine lid with no reaction.

What is HOOD?
What is TAILGATE?

They seem to remain OPEN no matter what I do.

thanks,

Mike

mpruden

I'm using the old version of UTD999, so mine is a bit different.

Hood = engine compartment. I just tested mine and it opens / closes along with the engine compartment lid as expected.
Tailgate = no idea. My version doesn't have that, and it's not listed in the WSM.