Anticipated Maintenance/Cost for 100k Miles C4S?
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Anticipated Maintenance/Cost for 100k Miles C4S?
Hi, I have been looking at a high mileage 993 C4S and wondering what are the anticipated maintenance and cost for cars over 100k miles? Supposed the valve guide replacement has already done also the clutch. Already tried to search the forum but didn't really get a good result. Any help appreciated! Thanks.
Andy
Andy
#2
Banned
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Chicagoland Area
Posts: 26,142
Likes: 0
Received 5,388 Likes
on
2,509 Posts
Driving a 993 is now free. They go up in value. You spend on maintenance. Net net you brake even or make a little. Buy smart. Take excellent care.
Sent from my iPhone using Rennlist
Sent from my iPhone using Rennlist
#3
If the clutch and valve guides are done, it's had much of the major $$$ work already done.
Buy it! Get a PPI first, and enjoy. These cars are fantastic, and money in the bank to boot
Buy it! Get a PPI first, and enjoy. These cars are fantastic, and money in the bank to boot
#4
Burning Brakes
What's the difference between net and net net
#7
Rennlist Member
With the newest of the 993's being 17 years old, there's really no telling what's going to go wrong on any given car, no matter how well maintained it is. Depending on how much you drive the car annually, your resistance to the "slippery slope," plus how good your luck is, you might get by for $1000/year, but if I were considering a 993 today, I wouldn't buy one without having $5,000 set aside for when the Shinola hits the Westinghouse....
Trending Topics
#8
Rennlist Member
With the newest of the 993's being 17 years old, there's really no telling what's going to go wrong on any given car, no matter how well maintained it is. Depending on how much you drive the car annually, your resistance to the "slippery slope," plus how good your luck is, you might get by for $1000/year, but if I were considering a 993 today, I wouldn't buy one without having $5,000 set aside for when the Shinola hits the Westinghouse....
I spent a lot the first year just putting in new parts to replace broken ones.
If I was a penny pincher, I never would have bought my C4S. Even if you are smart and lucky you still spend more than you think you will.
The only other factor is if you do your own work. If you do, I wouldn't worry too much but parts are pricey.
--Michael
#9
Three Wheelin'
If the engine and clutch have been sorted,then you are off to a good start but..........
The suspension should be checked and the steering rack. i would check front diff for leaks as well. Check the evaporator for leaks. Think about front A-arm bushings and check ball joints. There will always be swathes and odd bits that will sneak up. Doing your own maintenance will go a long way towards enjoy and keeping cost down. I have a high mileage C4S, but she looks like a show car.
Emerald
The suspension should be checked and the steering rack. i would check front diff for leaks as well. Check the evaporator for leaks. Think about front A-arm bushings and check ball joints. There will always be swathes and odd bits that will sneak up. Doing your own maintenance will go a long way towards enjoy and keeping cost down. I have a high mileage C4S, but she looks like a show car.
Emerald
#10
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the feedbacks. I know it should be a good investment in the long run, but just wondering how much I need in the meantime to keep it in an "excellent" condition...=)
Also, this "good investment" reasoning is probably the only argument I have to persuade my wife how buying a 20 year old car make sense and might one day help paying for kids' college! LOL...
Also, this "good investment" reasoning is probably the only argument I have to persuade my wife how buying a 20 year old car make sense and might one day help paying for kids' college! LOL...
#11
At that mileage, it's great you have had the guides and clutch done. One other big ticket area is the suspension system. Bushings, boots, shocks, steering rack, tie rods....etc often need replacement or repair at or around your cars age and mileage. Good luck with her.
#12
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Less is more. At 100K miles it has to do with what has already been done. Outside of oil changes and tires I let the presence of symptoms drive maintenance decisions. For example:
If the car idles a little too rough and a check engine light / misfire code comes on I check the distributor belt, change the cap and rotors, clear the light and code and see if it comes back.
If the car idles a little too rough and a check engine light / misfire code comes on I check the distributor belt, change the cap and rotors, clear the light and code and see if it comes back.
#13
Drifting
All depends on how it was maintained and what has been replaced. My 993 with 115k on the clock drives great and is super reliable. Just took it on a 300 mile trip yesterday.