Scissor Lifts: Bendpak MD-6XP vs. Dannmar Cadet 6000XL
#17
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Merrimac, WI
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Martin, I can only speak of Bendpak. I think the best, and best for the money.
Putting it in the floor is the greatest. I put a cover on it so its gone when not in use. Also, its a great 4 x 8 foot work bench that just comes out of the floor. Had it for seven years, many can on it. Engine work, transmission replacement, lots of brake jobs, underside cleaning for Porsche Parades etc. Only took a day in infall in floor. Mark
Putting it in the floor is the greatest. I put a cover on it so its gone when not in use. Also, its a great 4 x 8 foot work bench that just comes out of the floor. Had it for seven years, many can on it. Engine work, transmission replacement, lots of brake jobs, underside cleaning for Porsche Parades etc. Only took a day in infall in floor. Mark
Last edited by Emo993; 07-03-2015 at 05:17 PM.
#20
where are you guys getting these metal plates to lay down for the rollers? dimensions?
#21
Rennlist Member
Thanks EMB, but I'm talking about this type of storage. I'm building a detached two car garage and want to get three cars in there. The four post stands freely FYI, and can be moved with optional rollers. Will probably acquire a pair of sliding jacks as well. Just doing my research now.
http://www.erikaslist.com/Pictures/sIMG_7280.jpg
#22
Rennlist Member
you would prob get more 'capacity' with a scissor lift. as its stowed under the car. another advantage of it, is you can move it for projects to utilize space in your garage depending on the job... a two post movable lift needs to be unbolted, moved and room to store the posts.
where are you guys getting these metal plates to lay down for the rollers? dimensions?
where are you guys getting these metal plates to lay down for the rollers? dimensions?
I bought it off of ebay, similar to this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-x-6-x-24...item23404cafc9
Other Specifics from my install, I copied this from my posting:
Howdy Again Guys!! Since doing this project earlier this year I've received several PM's and emails from guys who were thinking about doing something similar. I decided to post up some of the specifics to answer some future potential questions, please remember this is what has worked for me using the Atlas TD6MR lift, using a different lift and dealing with your specific garage floor and configuration will change things......in other words do whatever at your own risk, YMMV, etc. What I did and worked well for me:
-Hole Size: 89 1/2" Length by 46 5/8" Wide (Remember that I used 1/8" thick angle stainless steel and 5/8" composite decking to trim out hole)
-Depth of Hole after digging it out: Minimum of 14"
-Expanded the Hole 12" to 18" under Existing Floor for Additional Support
-Thickness of Poured Concrete: Minimum of 7"
-5 Piers dug 12" in Diameter, Minimum of 36" Deep, tied together with rebar
-Depth of Finished Recess: 7" from Garage Floor to Recessed Floor
-Hydraulic Cement was used to Finish out the Hole Sides / Uprights
-I waited 30 days for all Concrete to Cure before Drilling / Anchoring Composite Sides
-Size of Aluminum Plates: 8" x 24" x 1/4" Sourced from Ebay
-PVC Pipe used to run lines through is 1 1/2", Coring Bit used to Drill Floor was 2"
-I did place a piece of 1 1/2" PVC Pipe into Concrete on Front Corner of Recess to act as a Drain just in case
-If you pursue my custom made release lever or find you need a longer cable (Bicycle brake cable), I had no luck sourcing one so I made my own:
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ble?highlight=
Lastly, When figuring out where to cut your hole, remember that you don't want to simply center it up since the lifting table is offset on the actual lift. If you go to the first page and look at the piece of corrugated I used please notice where I drew everything, the hydraulics are at one end and the lifting table is 20" offset to the other end. Contrary to what many would think, the table does not shift or move to the center of the hole or lift when raised, it pretty much remains in the same vertical plane when rising.
Good Luck Gentlemen.......
#23
#24
Rennlist Member
you would prob get more 'capacity' with a scissor lift. as its stowed under the car. another advantage of it, is you can move it for projects to utilize space in your garage depending on the job... a two post movable lift needs to be unbolted, moved and room to store the posts.
where are you guys getting these metal plates to lay down for the rollers? dimensions?
where are you guys getting these metal plates to lay down for the rollers? dimensions?
With the cheap price of insurance here, why take the chance? I wore troughs in one garage, and had visible marks starting in another, so I put them in. $10 and 4 minutes. 3rd garage was a non-issue, and with my new garage with epoxy floor, I'm not taking the chance.
#25
I use a Pentalift scissor lift table to lift my 993 and it does a great job. I have used some other cars like Honda Accord with it and found no problems at all. I haven’t used Bendpak or Dannmar scissor lifts, so I can’t compare with them, but I can confirm it is really good after using it for almost 7 years now.
#26
Rennlist Member
I have a Bendpak and the only issue I have had is not being able to drop the engine and trans without cutting out the rear cross brace. There is a good DIY on doing it though.
It would just be nice if it came with a removeable brace set up.
--Michael
It would just be nice if it came with a removeable brace set up.
--Michael
#27
Drifting
This is why I didn't buy the Bendpak...Cutting out the cross brace didn't sit with me well.
#28
Rennlist Member
Considering motors aren't dropped every day, or year, and the fact the crossbrace mod is very easy to do, there's no reason not to keep the BP on one's radar, if one were shopping.
The BP crossbrace wasn't an issue on my 911.
The BP crossbrace wasn't an issue on my 911.