Ed Hughes

Jeez, as stated, we're not talking about gearshift *****-this could be a big problem if the garage engineering project doesn't work. For a proven part, $299 isn't an exorbitant amount to spend on these cars. Nothing wrong with somebody making money.

nine9six

Ed,
Did you bother to look at any of the AN16 check valve links I posted? With no intent of being insulting, you do know what a check valve is comprised of, yes?

The valves in the links I posted are more than enough, (one is billet SS) and more robust configuration than what I see from the welded or more likely brazed sheet metal bodied valves from Rothsport. I do not claim to know if Rothsport builds their designed valves, or if they have them produced by a foreign or domestic manufacturer.

The Rothsport valve looks very much like the China sourced water check valves I've seen; but hey brother, its your money and I totally support you to spend it as you see fit.

Yeah, we're not talking gear shift *****...

Ed Hughes

Didn't say I was going to buy one, in fact I'm not. Simply pointing out to others, that could "eff" stuff up, that there is something that was/is proven.

I'm also not making comments on people's profit margin, which is really what prompted my comment. I get tired of some customers trying to second guess my margins.

KaiB

Well....Rothsport has knobbies also.

They also add to the large profit margin there.

Just sayin'...

nine9six

Ed, if I said nothing about the profit margin, are you under the impression that most here couldn't figure the difference over a $40 valve and a $300 valve? Come on man!

Those valves would have over 100% markup at $100 ea. and Rothsport smiles all the way to the bank at comments such as yours.

And on top of that, God bless them, and their profit margins. I cant imagine they are even the least bit embarrassed, as they have the right to sell at whatever price point the market will bear.

...I thought we were here to help each other out with the sharing of ideas; be they cost effective alternatives, or how to, help aids...

It was not my intent to run roughshod over your beliefs on americanism...I realize in your eyes, I am naive, pollyanna and possibly somewhat stupid in my thoughts of fairness in today's life and times.

Unfortunately, I dont apologize for these beliefs/ideals.

NYC993

What's the point of these valves? Does 993 really smoke on start-up after sitting for long time?

MarkD

yep
my 997 gt3 does too
it's a flat six thing...
gravity

Mark in Baltimore

All of this talk about trying to out-do Rothsport is all well and good. However, unless one of you has actually utilized one of the referenced or available check valves and has installed it into his or her 993 over a period of time to the point that its reliability has been adequately proven, assuming we define "reliability" and "adequate" as "Sure, I've installed this thing in my 993, I've run it over 1,000 miles, and my engine hasn't seized" (and I have no idea if this is a proper test), then, really, this is all a lot of talk. Are the Rothsports expensive? Yes, they're not cheap at all. Are there less expensive valves? Yes, it sure appears that way. The point is that I don't know enough about these cheaper valves to decide if they are up to the task and, unless you've tried them on a 993, then neither do you. Feel that you're right? Good. Prove it with your car by assembling all of the correct parts and performing a real world test over time and miles. Let us know the exact parts so we can feel safe with the knowledge that someone has tried them out and that there is the premise of repeatability.

If I buy this Rothsport part, I assume I'm buying a piece that has been tested. If I try to build my own part, I'm going on a wing and a prayer since I don't have a clue what I'm doing. Regrettably, I don't have a Scrooge McDuck roomful of $1,000 bills that I can burn, so I have to be kind of careful with my precious 993 mill.

Those if you who have been here for a while may recall that Flying Finn made his own very cost-effective oil coolers from parts that he assembled from various vendors. He blazed that trail, but it was a path that I would have been unwilling to take, for it required too much time for me to experiment on my car, not to mention the fact that I was experimenting on my car. My solution was to buy a spendy Cargraphic oil cooler that had been proven to work. I think I dropped $750, maybe $1,000, for that heat exchanger, but the research and proven results of that modification was worth a lot of my time.

NYC993

thanks Mark,

So what does exactly happen? Oil gets into combustion chamber through valve guides? does it only happen when motor stops in certain position?

I had my car sit for 4 month and I was expecting some oil burning off on start-up but there was none.

JM993

From the other side - the rings.

OverBoosted28

I'm not one to shun the R&D that manufacterers do to provide quality bits. But I do look at items that I could reproduce and try to do so. Again, I applaud their work, because it helps me with ideas. But I am in no position to purchase alot of these high quality (costly) items. What I end up doing, is over engineering my substitutes. My rear adj. control arms, camber locking plates, anti-siphon turbo oil return lines, RS shift rod, muffler bypass pipes, sound pad keeper etc...... have all proven worthy. And I've never taken tried to steer other from purchasing quality. Just trying to help others that may be my same situation, with the same Fd up priorities.

OverBoosted28

Oil migrates past the rings from the crankcase as the case slowly fills upon shutdown. As it sits, it just chases any pathway through gravity.

nine9six

...and the check valve stops the unrestricted flow from the tank, via the feed line.
--------------------------------------

Bottom line is a check valve is ultra simplistic design, consisting of a very mild tensioned spring that pushes a ball against an angled seat, or closes a valve on a seat. This valve stays closed until there is a slight pressure or suction to overcome the mild spring pressure and opens the valve.

Engine off=no pressure=closed valve=no unrestricted oil tank flow to the motor. If the valve fails, you wind up with the same condition as prior to valve installation.

Max fluid flow, cracking pressure desired, environmental (heat, fluid type, viscosity) conditions, are the considerations. You dont need to build a valve, they already exists. You just apply the valve that exceeds the conditions by xx% safety margin.

You guys tickle me with terms like R&D...adding a simple valve to prevent that which solves a problem is engineering in its simplest form.

Windy Dog, you're a mechanical engineer...Care to chime in here? This is exhausting...

Rennlist overdramatization example:
I have a wire hanging down from my dash...Gee, Rothsport designed and produced a wire tie to solve the problem and its only $49, and I am ASSUMING they tested it prior to marketing.

Rennlist thread: Will a zip tie solve the problem? What size, how tight do I zip it, how long will it last, why zip tie instead of a string, what kind of string if in lieu of zip tie. Did you test the string. We assume Rothsport tested theirs...

Its almost this simple... Ya gotta know there are those sitting back laughing their fannies off at all this!

Stick a fork in me.

Holger3.2

Another question ...
is this valve relevant at all?

my 3.2 is sitting in his garage since 30 years and gets a run-out every 4 to 7 month when i'm back in Germany. In short, open Garage - disconnect cetek - turn key - run it for 1 to 2 weeks - service when adequate - back in the garage - connect cetek - rest for 4 to 7 month. repeat next year ... worked all the time

at first run smokes a little ones in a while for a minute ... no harm

again, such valve ... what for ?!

seems to be the same waste of money like ceramic coating spray for exhaust and mufflers

Mark in Baltimore

Less talk, more do.

(I know, I know; you don't need to since you know it will work, right? Who needs facts when gum flapping is easier? )