Looking to buy a 993
#32
Drifting
Spyder Man......says.... Additionally, I got 'lucky' and found one without the immobilizer. What's the bonus of this and how can I tell if my '95 has it or not ? Is it indicated on the option sticker ? I bought last year and I'm currently expecting to put about $7000 into it to bring it up to my initial spec, then I can drive it to know it and probably spend some more to get it near to where I want it. Unless you are very lucky any newly bought 993 is gonna need some coin spent on it, unless you paid top dollar.
#34
Rennlist Member
#36
Greetings from a first time rennlist poster. As a early build 95 owner. ( feb.) The non immobilizer obd1 is a definite plus. On the other hand. Not being able to install a light weight flywheel without worrying about stalling.. Definite minus. Rennsport has a mid weight fw that from what I've read deals with this issue. At least I hope so ? I'm waiting on one for my diy clutch change.
#40
Rennlist Member
I went through this process for about 8 months before I pulled the trigger.... all the while watching prices climb about $ 2K a month....
the 95's are great cars- probably the BEST 1st production year car i can think of from Porsche. I however, wanted a wide body, so it was 96-98.
My selection criteria was
1) Wide Body
2) Clean Car Fax
3) VERY good overall condition
4) Good service records
5) Higher Mileage ( yes that's right- strictly a price issue)
6) 6 Speed
7) Engine, Clutch, Paint work that matched condition & priced accordingly.
I plan to keep my car a LONG time & Drive it- I put about 6000 miles on it last year, so a garage queen would just frustrate me- been there done that. There are a lot of great cars out there and if you find one from a RL member, you'll probably do well. have fun with the search and drive a few cars- they do feel different especially with suspension upgrades, golden rod, etc. ( I have both and my car handles superbly).
the 95's are great cars- probably the BEST 1st production year car i can think of from Porsche. I however, wanted a wide body, so it was 96-98.
My selection criteria was
1) Wide Body
2) Clean Car Fax
3) VERY good overall condition
4) Good service records
5) Higher Mileage ( yes that's right- strictly a price issue)
6) 6 Speed
7) Engine, Clutch, Paint work that matched condition & priced accordingly.
I plan to keep my car a LONG time & Drive it- I put about 6000 miles on it last year, so a garage queen would just frustrate me- been there done that. There are a lot of great cars out there and if you find one from a RL member, you'll probably do well. have fun with the search and drive a few cars- they do feel different especially with suspension upgrades, golden rod, etc. ( I have both and my car handles superbly).
#42
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
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Last edited by pp000830; 02-12-2015 at 04:37 PM.
#43
Drifting
To all the '95 lovers and '96-98 haters:
My '96 C4S owned from 2007 until now (88kmi -->118kmi). NEVER a problem passing CA Emissions (start car, drive a few blocks, test). NEVER an issue with immobilizer.
Hater's gonna hate....
(kidding folks, just kidding...)
Full disclosure: My car had an SAI clean out and top end before I bought it (45kmi), and a major reason I did buy it. As someone pointed out early in the thread, known maintenance history is FAR more important in the long run.
My '96 C4S owned from 2007 until now (88kmi -->118kmi). NEVER a problem passing CA Emissions (start car, drive a few blocks, test). NEVER an issue with immobilizer.
Hater's gonna hate....
(kidding folks, just kidding...)
Full disclosure: My car had an SAI clean out and top end before I bought it (45kmi), and a major reason I did buy it. As someone pointed out early in the thread, known maintenance history is FAR more important in the long run.
#45
Drifting