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VA993Dreamer, thank you for the feedback, I appreciate this very much.
I am happy to see that you were able to fix the third brake light strip. Let me know if you are experiencing problems, and I'll send you a replacement part.
My next batch of these is now ready, and I will ship them in a proper cardboard box this time. The new LED PCB is now made of two interconnected halves to ease the packaging problems. See picture below.
I have been working hard the latest days producing both this LED and the rear fog conversion kits. All back orders will be sent out in four days.
Thanks again for your trust in my stuff.
Cheers,
Tore
Va993dreamer - thanks so much for the review. Tore's PCB for the CHMSL is something else isn't it?
Can I ask ... Does your cruise control work? I replaced my L+R brake lights with Tore LEDs and everything was good. When I then desoldered the incandescent bulbs in the CHMSL and replaced with LEDs, I found my CC inoperative ... Even w a 250 ohm resistor in parallel.
Much to my chagrin I did my CHMSL conversion a month before Tore made his LED CHMSL PCB, so I am hoping Tore has solved this quirk which would give me an excuse to splash out for his product!
The basket handle brake light took a bit longer. For me, the LED bulb strip was wrapped in cardboard and shipped in a long envelope. Through shipping, a number of the bulbs bent where they connected to the strip. This meant bending them back straight on the strip so it would seat properly in the light housing. It's a pretty delicate piece and I was concerned that I would snap off some of the LEDs as I bent them back into shape. It took a bit of time, but I got them straight and the whole setup looks fantastic.
Tore, I may suggest that you ship this item boxed vs. in an envelope. It might decrease the risk of it being mangled through shipping handling necessitating a return/replacement.
The day my LED bulb strip arrived and opened the envelope, most LED's were bent and one of them crushed, the crushed one broke from it's legs when trying to straighten it and I was afraid the other ones would become weak after bending too much. I contacted Tore right away and he said he would sent me a replacement from the revised batch. Great and fast customer support!
I noticed on the first batch that the LED's did not all align properly and wonder if this has been fixed with the new ones?
Hans, thanks. I apologize for the damage, I had a lot of problems sending the full length PCB's in the post. They had to be sent as a special envelope format, and there was a thickness limitation on these in Norwegian Post.
That is all sorted now with the two-piece PCB, and the second batch has the PCB LED positions slightly adjusted for a better fit. The first batch was fine too, I reposisioned the LEDs by slightly bending the legs to make it fit.
I guess you will have your replacement arrived safely within next week.
Cheers,
Tore
Hans, thanks. I apologize for the damage, I had a lot of problems sending the full length PCB's in the post. They had to be sent as a special envelope format, and there was a thickness limitation on these in Norwegian Post.
That is all sorted now with the two-piece PCB, and the second batch has the PCB LED positions slightly adjusted for a better fit. The first batch was fine too, I reposisioned the LEDs by slightly bending the legs to make it fit.
I guess you will have your replacement arrived safely within next week.
Cheers,
Tore
Looking forward to it!
Is the connection between the two PCB's simply two wires?
Also - someone just posted an issue with all LED brake lights and non active Cruise Control (https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...cruise-no.html).
Not that I really worry too much about it as I seldom use the CC.
Yes, only two wires for the 12V feed between the boards.
I have also seen the cruise control issues, and I am working on a solution. My brake light LEDs already have extra load resistors, but it might be necessary to use another external load resistor in the brake light circuit. However, as mentioned in the thread, this is a sad waist of energy. I have yet to get this verified from enough customers that have this problem. It also depends on how many LEDs (and where you buy them) you are using on the brake light.
I'll be happy to find a solution for you too if you experience problems.
Cheers,
Tore
Yes, only two wires for the 12V feed between the boards.
I have also seen the cruise control issues, and I am working on a solution. My brake light LEDs already have extra load resistors, but it might be necessary to use another external load resistor in the brake light circuit. However, as mentioned in the thread, this is a sad waist of energy. I have yet to get this verified from enough customers that have this problem. It also depends on how many LEDs (and where you buy them) you are using on the brake light.
I'll be happy to find a solution for you too if you experience problems.
Cheers,
Tore
Hi Tore!
<Not intending to ask you to divulge trade secrets so please don't take this as such>
Do you have less than 250 Ohms wired in parallel with the LEDs on your 3rd brake light PCB? I have 250 Ohms wired in parallel with my homemade 3rd brake light LED strip.
I'm the person with the cruise control issues --- I think I should like to try your 3rd brake light LED PCB and will contact you through the F/X website again!
I have no load resistors on the third brake light PCB. In my opinion is this not the right spot to place such a load. A better location is on the wire harness going to one of the rear lights. Easier to install and a better place to have a hot resistor.
Cheers,
Tore
I have no load resistors on the third brake light PCB. In my opinion is this not the right spot to place such a load. A better location is on the wire harness going to one of the rear lights. Easier to install and a better place to have a hot resistor.
Cheers,
Tore
Ahh, thanks. So we've come to the same conclusion, that a load resistor (being hot) is too unwieldy to place in the CHMSL. It is a shame, though, to waste all that electricity as you mention.
Since I have a penchant for making solutions needlessly complex and expensive in the search for elegance (for instance my bluetooth solution here), I've been toying with the idea of "faking out" the cruise control computer.
Perhaps I will buy a spare cruise control computer / wiring harness to cannibalize for the spare connectors --- and then find a way to make a plug'n'play reversible harness that ties pin 8 to ground when the brake is not pressed and ties pin 8 to 12v when the brake pedal IS pressed. (below attached is a borrowed picture from a 964 thread, but the CC computer is the same part number between 964 and 993).
I just got a note from Tore that my shipment is on the way. No problem. It's been a few weeks since I ordered the parts but my car is still in the garage anyway. It is just so great that I can learn about 993 repairs, gadgets and oil (of course) from you clowns and buy a cool upgrade at a very reasonable price from a friendly, hardworking Norwegian genius with just a few clicks and a paypal account. Paypal, That's not even real money!
This here is why the internet was invented.
I just got a note from Tore that my shipment is on the way. No problem. It's been a few weeks since I ordered the parts but my car is still in the garage anyway. It is just so great that I can learn about 993 repairs, gadgets and oil (of course) from you clowns and buy a cool upgrade at a very reasonable price from a friendly, hardworking Norwegian genius with just a few clicks and a paypal account. Paypal, That's not even real money!
This here is why the internet was invented.
LOL Christian. If you need any help with install, happy to assist.
hotaru, I would love to get that nose on that car you posted. Haven't been able to find a front bumper in that shape that does not require the GT2 fenders...
03-22-2015, 06:46 PM
LOL Christian. If you need any help with install, happy to assist.
