Does this sound right?
#1
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Does this sound right?
I've been told by a shop that I've used for years and trust that I need a bunch of work done. The car is a 95 993 with 90,000 miles.
I had to have it towed in because the shift linkage broke and the gear shift was flopping around, and it was due for the 90k service. I just got a call from someone I've never dealt with before and he says the gear shift linkage needs to be replaced and with labor it runs about $390(US dollars).
I had asked them to check the plugs because I've noticed increased oil consumtion, but no oil on the floor. I was told that they had not pulled the plugs yet, but found the source of the oil useage. They said the car was leaking tons of oil(not seaping) and it was from the chain case primarily, plus the rms and the valve covers. I know there is oil on the engine casing, but only about five oldish drops on the garage floor, on the centerline. I looked at the lower valve covers recently and they looked great. They recommend that i split the case and do a reseal for about 10k, if i want to keep it and enjoy it forever, which i do. The current oil useage is about 1 quart /1000 miles.
Next, the tie rod ends on both sides need replacing, and the lower control arm bushings on both sides are bad and the arms need to be replaced. Curiously, the same shop replaced my steering rack within about the last six months and made no mention of those items. Plus, a different shop installed new front tires and did an alignment within the last few weeks and made no mention of bad tie rods or bushings. Oh, the right rear engine mount is bad too, which does not strike me as a big deal or surprise me, although I haven't noticed and signs of a bad mount, like sagging exhaust tips.
I know a car with 90,000 miles and track time can need all of these items but, this car has been meticulously maintained and, as mentioned above, the same shop and another shop were working on the front end and did not think more work was needed. What additional follow-up questions should I ask for the engine work and/or the suspension work?
The group input will be mucho appreciated.
I had to have it towed in because the shift linkage broke and the gear shift was flopping around, and it was due for the 90k service. I just got a call from someone I've never dealt with before and he says the gear shift linkage needs to be replaced and with labor it runs about $390(US dollars).
I had asked them to check the plugs because I've noticed increased oil consumtion, but no oil on the floor. I was told that they had not pulled the plugs yet, but found the source of the oil useage. They said the car was leaking tons of oil(not seaping) and it was from the chain case primarily, plus the rms and the valve covers. I know there is oil on the engine casing, but only about five oldish drops on the garage floor, on the centerline. I looked at the lower valve covers recently and they looked great. They recommend that i split the case and do a reseal for about 10k, if i want to keep it and enjoy it forever, which i do. The current oil useage is about 1 quart /1000 miles.
Next, the tie rod ends on both sides need replacing, and the lower control arm bushings on both sides are bad and the arms need to be replaced. Curiously, the same shop replaced my steering rack within about the last six months and made no mention of those items. Plus, a different shop installed new front tires and did an alignment within the last few weeks and made no mention of bad tie rods or bushings. Oh, the right rear engine mount is bad too, which does not strike me as a big deal or surprise me, although I haven't noticed and signs of a bad mount, like sagging exhaust tips.
I know a car with 90,000 miles and track time can need all of these items but, this car has been meticulously maintained and, as mentioned above, the same shop and another shop were working on the front end and did not think more work was needed. What additional follow-up questions should I ask for the engine work and/or the suspension work?
The group input will be mucho appreciated.
#2
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Second opinion or if you can't do it yourself, do you have a friend that can crawl under your car and look at those items? This is the kind of stuff that makes me count my blessings that I don't have to take my car to someone else. I'm bad, I trust no one.
#3
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Seriously, what would be going on with one of these engines that "splitting the case" in and of itself solves an oil leakage problem? (Don't bring up Mg case engines, or even the oddest of oddball occurrences where an Al engine ran so hot things warped.)
If you want to delve into the top end to replace guides and some other external seals, sure that may be a legitimate course of action.
#4
Burning Brakes
Did you have your engine undertray on? I am surprised it would leak so much without any spot on your driveway... 1 qt/1000 miles doesn’t seem that bad.... or at least urgent, meaning you have time to get a second opinion.
#5
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With the shift linkage fixed does the car generally run and handle ok?
Andy
#6
Drifting
Porsche doesn't list part number for these (968 part number), and wants you to replace the whole front rod. Indeed this can be a 20 dollar nylon cup replacement (you need 2). This should be done on any 993. We did this on 3 and they were all in various stages of detoriation.
#7
Drifting
To OP,
90k mile service is just a regular 30k mile service. The most extensive is 60k service, which is 30K + tranny flush. The excessive oil "leak" might be explaine by oil accumulating somewehre (i.e. trays or heat exchanges) over time so it looks lots of oil. Spliting the case and doing top end are two different things. All you might need is just a few gaskets (valve covers and timing chain covers). At some point once the valve guides wear out you might need a top end, so perhaps they are pushing you into doing one now.
90k mile service is just a regular 30k mile service. The most extensive is 60k service, which is 30K + tranny flush. The excessive oil "leak" might be explaine by oil accumulating somewehre (i.e. trays or heat exchanges) over time so it looks lots of oil. Spliting the case and doing top end are two different things. All you might need is just a few gaskets (valve covers and timing chain covers). At some point once the valve guides wear out you might need a top end, so perhaps they are pushing you into doing one now.
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#8
#10
Three Wheelin'
Porsche doesn't list part number for these (968 part number), and wants you to replace the whole front rod. Indeed this can be a 20 dollar nylon cup replacement (you need 2). This should be done on any 993. We did this on 3 and they were all in various stages of detoriation.
928 116 145 03 = $10.79 x 2 = $21.58
964 424 115 01 = $22.50 x 4 = $90.00
Grand total = 111.58. The 964 parts are more expensive, but seem to be less likely to fail. You can test these by simply pulling up on the shifter. It if it moves up and down, you know these are toast.
#11
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Thanks for all the input.
I'll try to answer the questions raised: No engine tray; Before the linkage broke, it was running and handling great, after I put on new front tires and had it aligned.
They send some jpegs of the oil leaks. I will try to figure out how to upload them. They don't look to bad to me.
On the tie rods and control arm issues, is there a definative test, or is this a matter where reasonable minds might differ on the need to replace?
Regarding switching shops, I am going to go look at the car and talk to the owner (who always has worked on the car before) before I make any decision. In the past, they have always talked me out of spending money and been very measured in suggested work. This is atypical, to put it mildly.
I'll try to answer the questions raised: No engine tray; Before the linkage broke, it was running and handling great, after I put on new front tires and had it aligned.
They send some jpegs of the oil leaks. I will try to figure out how to upload them. They don't look to bad to me.
On the tie rods and control arm issues, is there a definative test, or is this a matter where reasonable minds might differ on the need to replace?
Regarding switching shops, I am going to go look at the car and talk to the owner (who always has worked on the car before) before I make any decision. In the past, they have always talked me out of spending money and been very measured in suggested work. This is atypical, to put it mildly.
#13
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If the middle pic is ur rear sway bar, then just clean it all up and see where the seepage starts. I have a slow seeping area at the base of the #3 cylinder. It's very annoying but I am not gonna "split my case" unitl it's necessary. It's aircooled, it's gonna seep somewhere.
#14
Mine leaks from the chain cover gaskets, onto the exhaust. Makes for a good smell. But I have not found it necessary to get it fixed. Every old P-car leaks. Just keep checking and topping it off.
#15
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Sometimes, "it ain't what you say, it's the way how you say it" You said the message was delivered by "some one you never talked to before". Let us know what your long time guy has to say.