nine9six

Have all fobs in your possession when programming/reprogramming. Up to 4 fobs may be programmed in a session. If memory serves, I believe it's the door top LED's that blink twice, indicating successful programming of each fob as the fob button is pressed.

mathfuzzy

I have everything I need for programming (thanks Carlsen, no problem getting the code today), but am struggling with getting the car into programming mode.

I've tried several times to get the immobilizer to prime - step c or alt c - but after waiting several minutes, no priming... at least I don't think. I'm looking for the "clunk" sound, right? In other words, I'll know it when it primes itself, is that correct?

Any bright ideas about what I'm doing wrong? Or if something is messed up with the immobilizer (guessing that's less likely).

The net is, when I go to step D, the immobilizer light never goes off... it just sits there and stays lit.

Also, while I'm here, turning the ignition to 'on' means only getting the immobilizer warning light to go on, not the next step which brings on the fan and all of the other warning lights. Is that correct?

Thanks in advance (and Happy Holidays from the Bay Area where it's a sunny and 70 degree 23rd of December).

-JD

TRINITONY

Can u make a youtube video? gracias..

pp000830

The system won't prime if any cabin, frunk or engine compartment light is illuminated. Thing such as the door open or the dome rocker set to always off for eith light in the cabin can contribute to this as well.

The "ON" position is when all the gauge lamps illuminate.

Andy :-)

mathfuzzy

If I ever get it figured out.

Seriously. I tried again and nada. The warning light never goes off as it indicates it should in step D. Seems as though the Immobilizer doesn't prime. I locked and unlocked the car, got in, sat there and contemplated the universe for 5 minutes, but nothing.

How does one know if the Immobilizer has "primed."

mathfuzzy

Thanks Andy. Maybe dome rocker set to always off is a clue. I'm good everywhere else - checked all of the other compartments.

And big thanks for clarifying what "on" position is. So if the big exclamation point lights up, I've found "on."

mathfuzzy

Okay - the two things that I changed were:

1 - moving the dome lights from always off to lighting on entry

2 - actually turned the ignition to 'on' position... rather than one position before that just lights the immobilizer warning light

Now it turns out that the key fob circuit board that's been floating around in my desk drawer for several years appears to be bad. No surprise there. Both original switch blade keys worked fine, but the one I was hoping to program didn't register. Back to Suncoast!

Thanks again Andy!

mathfuzzy

One final thanks to Andy.

Got the new key fob remote today from AutoGallery in LA (on sale on eBay) and the programming took all of five minutes.

Didn't make a video (don't really know how), but these instructions are really good.

pp000830

You are very welcome!

nine9six

Andy,
Do you think the door chime relay plays a role in the immobilizer system/programming? I heard some mutterings that this may indeed be the case, as some owners pull the relays to get rid of the door open chimes.
If you dont see the immobilizer light ready state, this might be the cause.
Your thoughts would be appreciated.
Paul

pp000830

The door chime in my car doesn't work. For the longest time I didn't know it had one as it didn't work when I got the car. If there is a headlight left-on chime it doesn't work on my car either. However I do not miss these things and the programming still works.

This is an anecdotal response as somewhere deep in the programming of the car's software the real answer lies!

uberlawyer

As detailed in another thread, my car has been into the shop for various works battery has been disconnected while there. One of the remotes is all of a sudden not working. The second fob is still working.

Initially we thought that the battery had died - replaced, but no dice.

I wonder why one fob is working and the other is not?

I'll go to the dealer and ask for the code, but would appreciate any advice.

Do the remotes stop working when replacing their internal battery? That would be bad.

One last thing: my immobilizer light is not working. I do have a center console LED that indicated the state of the immobilizer.

Andy, great instructions - will definitely prove helpful when I try to reprogram the fobs.

pp000830

Your questions:

I wonder why one fob is working and the other is not? This seems to point to bad remote. The easiest way to check this is to go through the programming sequence and see if the car accepts it. Be aware that a newly purchased battery for the fob can be weak right out of the package, old inventory.

I'll go to the dealer and ask for the code, but would appreciate any advice.
Nothing to add. Having the LED on the door not flashing may suggest some switch or other component needs to be fixed before the car will allow programming. In your case maybe not as I have never seen a alarm light on the console before,

Do the remotes stop working when replacing their internal battery? No but conceivably the electrical noise from disconnecting/reconnecting the batter or letting the car stand w/o battery power for an extended period may have scrambled the key fob mating data in the car's electronics.

One last thing: my immobilizer light is not working. I do have a center console LED that indicated the state of the immobilizer.
Never seen such a thing. Does the car have some sort of aftermarket electronics or is it a special model?

Andy :-)

nine9six

Andy, your suspicions are true. Once in programming mode, all fobs need to be available for programming (limit 4). See Porsche workshop manual on the subject.

uberlawyer

This is the alarm manual that came with the car. You can also see the initial fob, which I think is the original one.

I have also attached a pic of the current fob. It's also from GTAlarm, I think it's model GT82TXC.

The real problem is that I don't know whether at the time of the fob replacement, other changes have been made (such as replacing the alarm module as well). I really hope not, because that would mean that I am in a world of trouble.

Just to be clear, the alarm has worked perfectly so far, with the door LEDs blinking as they should.

However, as explained, my immobilizer light is not working, and the car start procedure is as follows: I turn on the ignition, then I press the button with dots, the LED in the central console (just above the hazard lights) goes off, then I can start the car.

So there is definitely an immobilizer, do not know whether the whole setup is original or not.