Bill Verburg

The issue is that the eccentric adjusters are not stable

Note the witness marks on the KT adjuster after only a few track days, the handling had deteriorated to the point that the car was not derivable at speed


the usual dealer KT tools are fine for normal height cars but the motorsports tool is need for cars below RS height

You can also get an idea about what the KT adjustment is by looking the the fore and aft position of the wheel in the wheel well, wheel forward, lots of KT, wheel back less KT

pp000830

Very interesting, I didn't know this.
Now I understand why it was so hard to loosen the adjustment on my car. I had to use an open end box wrench and a hydraulic jack to push on its end to break it free.

In light of your posting would it make sense to always mark the position of the adjustment as you did to monitor slippage and reset if slippage is noticed?

OverBoosted28

The other side of this is, if the car is too low you will lose the amount of adjustability to obtain the correct setting for your car. That's where the rear adj. control arms (along with KT locks) come into necessity.

Bill Verburg

Those are RS adjusters which provide a little more adjustability, I do use the more adjustable and stable Rennline links now though

race911

And isn't an ill set 993 about the worst thing you can have, 911 wise? One time I went the wrong way, and it was over 2 sec/lap. Of course I blamed the tires at first.

ms9811

We installed my M029 springs and FSDs last weekend. Pictures to follow in later post.

I've only driven it a bit, but I think it was the right move. The OEM monroes had seemed ok to me other than some oscillation in the front going over dips in sweeping turns, but since this is my first Porsche I had nothing to compare it to. Well,when we took the monroes off, here is what we found:

Front: Both sides could be easily compressed by hand. One would slowly raise itself back, the other side would take 10 minutes to do so. Uneven rebound control would certainly make the front oscillate over dips in turns.

Rears: Both had about an inch or two of undamped movement when you pushed on them quickly by hand and then offered little resistance to being compressed. They also made clicking/grinding noises when moving.

The M029s gave me the ride height/stance I wanted. I am at 152MM front (which I will adjust after a few hundred miles of settling) and 146 rear. Everyone is entitled to their opinion, but for my taste and driving style I don't want to go any lower.

My only problem is I can't seem to get the camber settings where I need them. I am at 1.8 neg in back and 1.5 neg in front, and I want to have the camber per the specs which is MUCH less negative. My toe is about oK. I expect to go to a Porsche expert who has the right tools for the setup I want, which is the most tire friendly setup - the car handles fine without the help of a bunch of negative camber and I don't plan on doing any serious tracking of the car.

In the meantime, how does one adjust front and rear camber?

Moral of the story for all other newbies with OEM dampers: If you even THINK your dampers are shot, they are.

Thank you to all who gave advice and encouragement.

pp000830

The factory Kinematic adjustment gauge/tool is just a protractor bubble level with number markings on it . Much like a tilt gauge on a sail boat. I bet one could get a similar gauge or even an electronic tilt gauge on eBay measure their current settings across the lower arm that the factory tool is hung off of, the one with the clip on plastic shield on it, and the when doing the alignment at a new height just set the kinematic setting so the gauge reads the same value.

What make the factory gauge special is not its design, just that no one knows how its scale is calibrated. If you take known good values off a car that is properly aligned with a standard degree tilt gauge I would think one would have all they need to set the value going forward.

Andy.

Ed Hughes

I didn't come close to needing a spring compressor when I did mine.

ms9811

I may have been too verbose in my initial post about completing my suspension work, so here is the remaining question/issue and one new one:

"My only problem is I can't seem to get the camber settings where I need them. I am at 1.8 neg in back and 1.5 neg in front, and I want to have the camber per the specs which is MUCH less negative. My toe is about oK. I expect to go to a Porsche expert who has the right tools for the setup I want, which is the most tire friendly setup - the car handles fine without the help of a bunch of negative camber and I don't plan on doing any serious tracking of the car. In the meantime, how does one adjust front and rear camber?"

While I'm at it, I've noticed that the creaking noise I get when going (even slowly) over speed bumps or even speed humps is still there. It actually seems worse when I hit the bump/hump with both tires at the same time as opposed to when I manage to keep one side from hitting the bump/hump. It is louder when going over the front than the rear, but it is clear that the sound is coming from the end of the car that is hitting the bump/hump. There are no issues relating to ground clearance, bottoming out the suspension, tire rub, etc. It is clearly connected to the up and down motion of the car. I've read about lubricating sway bar end links. Is this the answer and, if so, what regularly available lubes will do the job?

Thanks again, all!

OverBoosted28

I am at just about complete monoball and also have solid subframe mounts. Some "clicking" sounds which are normal with sphericals. You can try this as it's a "dry film" type lube and won't gunk up too much.
Just hit everything you think might bind at all. Won't hurt anything

ms9811

Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure if it matters, but everything other than my new struts and springs are stock and the noise is not a clicking, it is a definite "creaking" noise when going up and down.

OverBoosted28

Doesn't matter. Just spray pretty much everything that is a possibilty of your creaking. It won't hurt anything. I just use it periodically on my sphericals. Hit the spring hats, any bushings, and anything you can think of where rubbing may occur. Good luck. Take care

ms9811

Will do. Thanks again.

Dry sump

Have a look on Mike's excellent p-car web site, he's has a section there that includes the factory technical service bulletins (http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...C_Parts_Guides). Included there is one that covers the specific problem you're having.

I had the same issue on my 97 C2, mine was especially noticable on cold mornings or after the car hadn't been used for a period of time. Turned on to be dried out anti roll bar bushes and solved by the application of some vaseline lube (Petroleum Jelly lube), as recomended by Porsche. Very cheap fix and has now been quite for at l;east 5 years.