Ignition wire insertion - what gives?
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Ignition wire insertion - what gives?
I'm in the middle of replacing my plugs and wires. It's as fun as the threads say and I'm only on the easy (left) side.
What gives with getting the wires inserted onto the plugs? On the lower 3, I can't get them fully seated by pushing alone. Do you have to tap them on with a mallet or something? Or, do I just need some performance enhancing drugs? Red wine is not working this time.
On the upper ones, is there a trick to getting them properly aligned? There is so little room up there that I can't quite get the front 2 oriented properly to even make contact.
What gives with getting the wires inserted onto the plugs? On the lower 3, I can't get them fully seated by pushing alone. Do you have to tap them on with a mallet or something? Or, do I just need some performance enhancing drugs? Red wine is not working this time.
On the upper ones, is there a trick to getting them properly aligned? There is so little room up there that I can't quite get the front 2 oriented properly to even make contact.
#2
not a good place for using a mallet, put it down, step away from the car and drink the wine in a soft chair.
you might have the angle of the plug wire off when trying to push in. it should go in and over the top of the plug easily and then snap into place with just a little pressure. get a light and look inside the valve cover to see the correct angle of the plug.
and keep this thread going, if you've run out of room on the left side I can't wait until you meet mr power steering pump and his friend clutch vent tube.
you might have the angle of the plug wire off when trying to push in. it should go in and over the top of the plug easily and then snap into place with just a little pressure. get a light and look inside the valve cover to see the correct angle of the plug.
and keep this thread going, if you've run out of room on the left side I can't wait until you meet mr power steering pump and his friend clutch vent tube.
#3
Rennlist Member
This is most likely your issue. It's not hard to get the boot cockeyed enough to where it misses proper engagement with the plug. If you have a dental mirror, take a peek in and you'll see the plugs aren't straight inside the hole.
not a good place for using a mallet, put it down, step away from the car and drink the wine in a soft chair.
you might have the angle of the plug wire off when trying to push in. it should go in and over the top of the plug easily and then snap into place with just a little pressure. get a light and look inside the valve cover to see the correct angle of the plug.
and keep this thread going, if you've run out of room on the left side I can't wait until you meet mr power steering pump and his friend clutch vent tube.
you might have the angle of the plug wire off when trying to push in. it should go in and over the top of the plug easily and then snap into place with just a little pressure. get a light and look inside the valve cover to see the correct angle of the plug.
and keep this thread going, if you've run out of room on the left side I can't wait until you meet mr power steering pump and his friend clutch vent tube.
#4
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Thanks guys. "Easy" side is done.
I've come to blows with mr. power steering pump before and he kicked my ***. Tomorrow is payback time.
Will let you you guys know how it goes.
I've come to blows with mr. power steering pump before and he kicked my ***. Tomorrow is payback time.
Will let you you guys know how it goes.
#5
Burning Brakes
I took the time to remove right side misc pieces . With the clutch vent tube, and the other piece off, a LOT easier. Of course, this was also a plug change, but I am guessing since you are going through the trouble you are also changing plugs?
Honestly, don't even try without removing. It may seem like a hassle to remove, but well worth it. Found the previous shop hated that last plug (6?) so much. They could not get to it, and left it in!
Honestly, don't even try without removing. It may seem like a hassle to remove, but well worth it. Found the previous shop hated that last plug (6?) so much. They could not get to it, and left it in!
#6
Rennlist Member
Here is a diy for the uppers with excellent tips on the engine tin nuts. mpruden, unless your uppers are bone dry, I'd consider removing the tins and changing them out too, they are pretty cheap as the slippery slope goes... and it might make the plug change a little easier. EDIT: at least on the right side. I see you are done with the left.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...tructions.html
#7
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the insight, guys.
Went out this morning to get a head start on things and hit a snag.
The lower muffler bracket support bolt is rounded off. Even my flare nut wrench slips on it. Based on the DIY on pcarworkshop, this isn't unheard of. I can only guess that a previous mechanic failed on this fastener, rounded it off, and left the upper plug by the PS pump in. I can get a real good grip on it with my wrenches, but it's already too far gone. At least I didn't cause this little problem!
I'm struggling to find a path forward, even with removing the heat exchanger as the DIY mentions to cut the bolt off, how do you put a new one in? I don't see how there is room?
Any ideas on next steps? (I've tried several cycles of heat / PB blaster - no luck as the bolt head is already rounded)
Went out this morning to get a head start on things and hit a snag.
The lower muffler bracket support bolt is rounded off. Even my flare nut wrench slips on it. Based on the DIY on pcarworkshop, this isn't unheard of. I can only guess that a previous mechanic failed on this fastener, rounded it off, and left the upper plug by the PS pump in. I can get a real good grip on it with my wrenches, but it's already too far gone. At least I didn't cause this little problem!
I'm struggling to find a path forward, even with removing the heat exchanger as the DIY mentions to cut the bolt off, how do you put a new one in? I don't see how there is room?
Any ideas on next steps? (I've tried several cycles of heat / PB blaster - no luck as the bolt head is already rounded)
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#8
long sharp pick type tool used to hammer what is left of the bolt head counter clockwise.
if that doesn't work you'll have to remove all the crap you mentioned to get to it. once you have space vise grips, dremel, all the usual suspects can be used.
getting a new one is easy, find the correct length and put the new screw in most of the way, then put all the crap back together. the support bracket can be slid into place before tightening the screw. get a grinder and make a skinny version of a 13mm open ended wrench to use for tightening.
if that doesn't work you'll have to remove all the crap you mentioned to get to it. once you have space vise grips, dremel, all the usual suspects can be used.
getting a new one is easy, find the correct length and put the new screw in most of the way, then put all the crap back together. the support bracket can be slid into place before tightening the screw. get a grinder and make a skinny version of a 13mm open ended wrench to use for tightening.
#9
Rennlist Member
Having just gone through all of this last week replacing wires and plugs, I would try use a cutting wheel on a dremel and try to chip away at the rusted bolt on the muffler strap and see if you could get it to loosen. It might take some time but could save you from buying a new strap. There is no way around Upper 6 without taking the muffler off. I did not need to take off the heat exchanger for lower 4. Just remove the rubber hose going up to the tube and use some extentions. Upper 6 should take as long as all the others put together. Good luck
#10
Is it just me or does the muffler support bracket seem like it just isn't the brightest way to mount the muffler on the car? I look at that thing and think: "This is the best way to do this?".
#11
#12
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Seems like there was some confusion in an earlier thread. Just to be clear, I'm not having any issues getting the muffler off. It's getting the support bracket off (prereq to removing the shroud).
#13
Drifting
PS: If you're removing the engine tin (didn't know you could do that with the engine in the car), be very careful with the 3 hex bolts that hold the engine tin to the heads; Porsche made these bolts out of metallic butter, so they're REALLY easy to strip.
#14
Burning Brakes
Yep, Jakob is correct! Those three bolts were in bad shape before I started.
Able to get of without adding to the damage.
Mpruden, I remember the specific bolt that is your challenge.
I am away from the garage, but if I remember, I had to use an open end wrench to get it.
My thinking prior to it finally breaking free, is it possible to get a thin pair of plumber channellock pliers in there?
Something like this https://www.plumbingsupply.com/tools...aterpumppliers
Able to get of without adding to the damage.
Mpruden, I remember the specific bolt that is your challenge.
I am away from the garage, but if I remember, I had to use an open end wrench to get it.
My thinking prior to it finally breaking free, is it possible to get a thin pair of plumber channellock pliers in there?
Something like this https://www.plumbingsupply.com/tools...aterpumppliers
#15
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Well, I've tried hammering at it counter clockwise and needle nose vise grips. No movement. I think I'll have to cut it off. Lovely. This does not look easy.