Ignition wire insertion - what gives?

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10-23-2014, 12:10 AM

#31

techman1

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Can you get a grip on the washer with the needle nose vise grip and turn it?

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10-23-2014, 05:41 PM

#32

mpruden

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Quote:

Originally Posted by k722070

just bite the bullet and drop the heat exchanger. gives you room underneath for vise grips or chisel.
once loose the bolt came out and cleared the chain tensioner housing, in my case anyway.

Boom. Nailed it. Removed the HE and used standard (not my needle nose) vise grips to remove it. I can't get it to clear the chain tensioner housing, so that may have to come off.

Of course, I've now managed to strip the upper muffler bracket bolt. Not sure I can blame a previous mechanic for this one.

Tried to follow all the guidance I can find (pre-soak, long hex socket, tap it in, breaker bar, etc...)

Will get back at it tonight....

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10-23-2014, 05:53 PM

#33

k722070

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Quote:

Originally Posted by mpruden

Of course, I've now managed to strip the upper muffler bracket bolt.

cracking me up.
I'll suggest cutting the old bolt rather than removing the chain tensioner cover.
not that its a big deal, just why cause more trouble? find a short version of the bolt for the new one.

and now mark tells us to use the 1/2 inch wrench...

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10-23-2014, 05:58 PM

#34

Vorsicht

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Quote:

Originally Posted by k722070

I did exactly this. Got a shorter bolt at local hardware store.

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10-23-2014, 06:41 PM

#35

mpruden

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Vorsicht

I did exactly this. Got a shorter bolt at local hardware store.

But then my Porsche won't be perfect! Just joking. I agree with the pragmatic approach. Seems like a no brainer.

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10-23-2014, 08:13 PM

#36

mpruden

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It has not been easy, but I'm back in the fight. Both bolts are now out.

An irwin deep bolt-out made quick work of the top bolt.

Thanks for all that have helped overcome this stuck fasteners. Not too many more to go!

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10-24-2014, 01:01 PM

#37

JB 911

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Quote:

Originally Posted by MarkD

The bolt head (discussed above) on the muffler bracket is not exactly to spec
A 1/2 wrench actually fits better.
A thinned down box end works well, as Mike mentions regarding 13mm

I was having some luck on my left side today so decided to check out this suggestion. Marks absolutely correct, a 1/2 is nice and snug. I love it when you pros throw us a bone - thanks Mark and Mike

Quote:

Originally Posted by mpruden

Even my flare nut wrench slips on it.

mpruden, great idea. SO I put Marks and that together. My 1/2 flare with a little wiggleing goes on and then theres no wiggle at all, it's super tight. Put on my leather gloves, broke right free. To anybody taking notes...

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10-24-2014, 01:15 PM

#38

P-daddy

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Quote:

Originally Posted by JB 911

I was having some luck on my left side today so decided to check out this suggestion. Marks absolutely correct, a 1/2 is nice and snug. I love it when you pros throw us a bone - thanks Mark and Mike

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10-24-2014, 01:27 PM

#39

Mike J

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Pretty funny - I now remember that I also used a 1/2" box wrench that I ground down, since that goes into my "special' tool drawer where all these custom tools are put. After a while, you end up with a whole bunch of fabricated/ground/welded tools that help on various functions (like the ground down crowsfoot for the SAI check valve ... ).