RS upright install
10-20-2014, 06:02 PM
#1
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RS upright install
I've searched, googled, dug and I was unable to find answers. I have the uprights, tie-rods and new bearings. Has anyone been able to do the swap without having to buy new seals for the sensors or even new sensors themselves? Of course I want to be prepared but don't want to buy something if it's not needed. Any helpful hints on the swap would be appreciated. Pretty much all of my suspension components are in great shape and I don't have corrosion, so I doubt I'd have completely frozen/seized items. Just did all of the soft brake lines and none were seized, as others have met with. Thanks in advance
Aloha
Aloha
10-20-2014, 06:16 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
This diy seemed really helpful and I plan to follow it for my install soon
http://www.jackals-forge.com/lotus/9...suprights.html
http://www.jackals-forge.com/lotus/9...suprights.html
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PumpkinRS (12-21-2023)
10-20-2014, 06:31 PM
#4
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I have done it on my TT , the reason for the new bearings is your will be trashed upon removal of the front hubs.
Install is relatively straightforward the wheel sensors should be fine for reinstall ,just bolt up your struts ,lower A arms and new tie rods and you should be good to go...Bert
Install is relatively straightforward the wheel sensors should be fine for reinstall ,just bolt up your struts ,lower A arms and new tie rods and you should be good to go...Bert
10-20-2014, 06:36 PM
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Thank you guys for the response. I saw "Jackals " diy. It doesn't say much and I knew it was really simple, just wanted to be sure. Just bake the uprights, no need to put bearings in freezer for a bit? No need to grease bearings? They appear sealed, other than the split in the middle. Thanks again
The other question I 4got, can I get by with just a front alignment after the swap? I figured so, but then again...... :-)
The other question I 4got, can I get by with just a front alignment after the swap? I figured so, but then again...... :-)
10-20-2014, 07:19 PM
#6
the abs sensors were frozen inside my old uprights so I had to buy new.
you could try and remove your abs sensors before starting the entire job so you don't order unnecessary and expensive parts.
you could try and remove your abs sensors before starting the entire job so you don't order unnecessary and expensive parts.
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10-20-2014, 07:47 PM
#8
Nordschleife Master
I have brand new ABS rings that I got for my conversion and didn't use. On the AWD cars the ABS rings are on the half shaft and don't need to be removed. My ABS sensors came out very easy, the hardest part of the whole thing was putting in the new wheel bearings and torquing the end nut,
10-20-2014, 08:27 PM
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Knew my car was pretty low, but didn't realize how low until I properly measured. Looking on how the tie-rods currently sit, I'm sure this will easily warrant the change. Although the steering and response is surgical compared to a few other 911's I've driven, poor roads make it dance. This should make that dance much more pleasant. Gonna have to wait till after MRLS in Nov.
So 2 wheel alignment is fine?
Thanks
10-20-2014, 10:47 PM
#11
bearings are lubed and sealed, no need to grease.
I baked the uprights and froze the bearing overnight, it dropped into the carrier easily. the tough part is pressing in the hub without splitting the bearing, you'll need parts of the old bearing to support the new bearing in an upright press. last time I did wheel bearings I used the 'front wheel bearing adapter' #66829 from harbor freight to press the hub into the new bearing/upright. makes the job very simple because you just crank the hub in using a big wrench, the kit provides backing plates to support the bearing.
2 wheel alignment concerning camber and caster, but for toe it will be on a rack or you will be using strings anyway so might as well check the rear toe also.
I baked the uprights and froze the bearing overnight, it dropped into the carrier easily. the tough part is pressing in the hub without splitting the bearing, you'll need parts of the old bearing to support the new bearing in an upright press. last time I did wheel bearings I used the 'front wheel bearing adapter' #66829 from harbor freight to press the hub into the new bearing/upright. makes the job very simple because you just crank the hub in using a big wrench, the kit provides backing plates to support the bearing.
2 wheel alignment concerning camber and caster, but for toe it will be on a rack or you will be using strings anyway so might as well check the rear toe also.
10-20-2014, 10:48 PM
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10-20-2014, 11:50 PM
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Just had a full/correct alignment in the end of August after replacing all rear suspension components with full monoballs/sphericals. Regarding the front end alignment, I'd be taking it to get it done. Just wanted to confirm that since the rear is done first in an alignment, and that it's fresh, I "should" be fine with a 2 wheel alignment. I can get the front done locally without a problem. The kinematic adjustment requires me to go up to bay area, which I'd rather not drive in if not nec.
10-21-2014, 03:42 AM
#14
Drifting
You should be fine with the just the front alignment IMO, after all you haven't touched the rears. Although if it's up on the alignment machine, probably doesn't hurt to check all 4 corners too.
