Immobilizer issue again… it will not start!
#16
RL Technical Advisor
FWIW,....reprogramming the 993 ECU is not a "while you wait" proposition. If you decide that you want the Immobilizer disabled (performance improvements can be done simultaneously), you should send the ECU anytime since it takes some time to do these.
I'd allow a week, given the current workload.
Now,...you've received some excellent suggestions about your no-start issues and those should be addressed before you proceed with anything on the ECU so you KNOW that's the source of the problem.
Remember, nothing in these cars works properly if there is a battery, battery cable, or other voltage problem. You need 12.66 VDC (no-load) at the battery terminals to make sure its fully charged. If the DME relay is suspect, make a bypass jumper so the fuel pump & DME are powered directly and see if it starts.
Beyond that, I'd look to see WHY its not starting; no spark or no fuel.
Good luck!!!!
#17
Dear Listers
An "update" on the issue… of the Immobilizer II problems.
A friend came over with a proper code reader and this is what we found;
Code 107 supply voltage low and the "Alarm Module failed to initialize" (even though the battery was charging).
Also, the "Drive Block" was not working, the 993 would not lock itself, as it should…
I finally go the Porsche started, but the "Anti Lock" light was lit up all the way driving to the Porsche Dealer.
Got a call from the Porsche dealer today, they told me that the DME is likely faulty (replacement cost
$ 6,000 CAN (yes that is not an error, six thousand for the DME CONTROL UNIT part # 993 618 604 11.
The dealer is going to swap it with a working unit on Wednesday to ensure that the unit is faulty!
Pelican parts sell these for $ 2428.50 but none are available in N. America and it would have to be ordered from Germany with a 20% surcharge…
LA Dismantlers will be called soon… meanwhile if you know or have one of these "kicking around", please let me know?
I am really disgusted with Porsche parts, this unit was already replaced in 2004!!!!!
Cheers to you all and I'll leet you know "the bottom line' on this,
Bert
Calgary Canada
An "update" on the issue… of the Immobilizer II problems.
A friend came over with a proper code reader and this is what we found;
Code 107 supply voltage low and the "Alarm Module failed to initialize" (even though the battery was charging).
Also, the "Drive Block" was not working, the 993 would not lock itself, as it should…
I finally go the Porsche started, but the "Anti Lock" light was lit up all the way driving to the Porsche Dealer.
Got a call from the Porsche dealer today, they told me that the DME is likely faulty (replacement cost
$ 6,000 CAN (yes that is not an error, six thousand for the DME CONTROL UNIT part # 993 618 604 11.
The dealer is going to swap it with a working unit on Wednesday to ensure that the unit is faulty!
Pelican parts sell these for $ 2428.50 but none are available in N. America and it would have to be ordered from Germany with a 20% surcharge…
LA Dismantlers will be called soon… meanwhile if you know or have one of these "kicking around", please let me know?
I am really disgusted with Porsche parts, this unit was already replaced in 2004!!!!!
Cheers to you all and I'll leet you know "the bottom line' on this,
Bert
Calgary Canada
#18
Rennlist Member
Barf. That price is crazy.
I would not rush into anything - there has to be a better option.
With Calgary weather being what it is, is this the end of your driving season? If so, might be worthwhile to take your time and find a cost effective solution.
Cheers
Matt
I would not rush into anything - there has to be a better option.
With Calgary weather being what it is, is this the end of your driving season? If so, might be worthwhile to take your time and find a cost effective solution.
Cheers
Matt
#19
RL Technical Advisor
Dear Listers
An "update" on the issue… of the Immobilizer II problems.
A friend came over with a proper code reader and this is what we found;
Code 107 supply voltage low and the "Alarm Module failed to initialize" (even though the battery was charging).
Also, the "Drive Block" was not working, the 993 would not lock itself, as it should…
I finally go the Porsche started, but the "Anti Lock" light was lit up all the way driving to the Porsche Dealer.
Got a call from the Porsche dealer today, they told me that the DME is likely faulty (replacement cost
$ 6,000 CAN (yes that is not an error, six thousand for the DME CONTROL UNIT part # 993 618 604 11.
The dealer is going to swap it with a working unit on Wednesday to ensure that the unit is faulty!
Pelican parts sell these for $ 2428.50 but none are available in N. America and it would have to be ordered from Germany with a 20% surcharge…
LA Dismantlers will be called soon… meanwhile if you know or have one of these "kicking around", please let me know?
I am really disgusted with Porsche parts, this unit was already replaced in 2004!!!!!
Cheers to you all and I'll leet you know "the bottom line' on this,
Bert
Calgary Canada
An "update" on the issue… of the Immobilizer II problems.
A friend came over with a proper code reader and this is what we found;
Code 107 supply voltage low and the "Alarm Module failed to initialize" (even though the battery was charging).
Also, the "Drive Block" was not working, the 993 would not lock itself, as it should…
I finally go the Porsche started, but the "Anti Lock" light was lit up all the way driving to the Porsche Dealer.
Got a call from the Porsche dealer today, they told me that the DME is likely faulty (replacement cost
$ 6,000 CAN (yes that is not an error, six thousand for the DME CONTROL UNIT part # 993 618 604 11.
The dealer is going to swap it with a working unit on Wednesday to ensure that the unit is faulty!
Pelican parts sell these for $ 2428.50 but none are available in N. America and it would have to be ordered from Germany with a 20% surcharge…
LA Dismantlers will be called soon… meanwhile if you know or have one of these "kicking around", please let me know?
I am really disgusted with Porsche parts, this unit was already replaced in 2004!!!!!
Cheers to you all and I'll leet you know "the bottom line' on this,
Bert
Calgary Canada
If I might suggest,...why don't you call me on Monday?
#20
So, what was the result when the dealer swapped the DME?
Did the car start immediately and did the "Anti Lock" light go out or stay on?
As stated previously, I would not rush into anything; and think about your alternatives. About $1500 should get you a good used DME; but I'm not convinced your DME is bad...
Did the car start immediately and did the "Anti Lock" light go out or stay on?
As stated previously, I would not rush into anything; and think about your alternatives. About $1500 should get you a good used DME; but I'm not convinced your DME is bad...
#22
Crank, no start
My car experienced crank, no start issues but there were no unusual warning lights at the same time. I could induce this condition by "bumping" the starter.
My indie shop traced it, using a scope, to a failing flywheel reference sensor. Replacing the sensor solved the problem.
My indie shop traced it, using a scope, to a failing flywheel reference sensor. Replacing the sensor solved the problem.
#23
RL Technical Advisor
My car experienced crank, no start issues but there were no unusual warning lights at the same time. I could induce this condition by "bumping" the starter.
My indie shop traced it, using a scope, to a failing flywheel reference sensor. Replacing the sensor solved the problem.
My indie shop traced it, using a scope, to a failing flywheel reference sensor. Replacing the sensor solved the problem.
Those sensors (and others) fail at a FAR bigger rate than the DME ever does and this is why I asked Bert to call me.
I certainly hope the dealer/shop that has his car is taking the time to thoroughly check things like this as well as trying another DME (with a disabled Immobilizer) to isolate the problem.
#25
RL Technical Advisor
#26
So, what was the result when the dealer swapped the DME?
Did the car start immediately and did the "Anti Lock" light go out or stay on?
As stated previously, I would not rush into anything; and think about your alternatives. About $1500 should get you a good used DME; but I'm not convinced your DME is bad...
Did the car start immediately and did the "Anti Lock" light go out or stay on?
As stated previously, I would not rush into anything; and think about your alternatives. About $1500 should get you a good used DME; but I'm not convinced your DME is bad...
the problem. Furthermore, as a responsible car owner, one needs to be present
when a dealer does simple testing such as just replacing the DME ECM to verify
the failure of a very costly part.
The 993 DME ECM is very reliable and rarely if ever fails unless it's had water
damage, had the battery jumped backwards, had an overcharging alternator,
had a wiring short, or been modified in the past.
- Bert -
"Got a call from the Porsche dealer today, they told me that the DME is likely faulty (replacement cost
$ 6,000 CAN (yes that is not an error, six thousand for the DME CONTROL UNIT part # 993 618 604 11.
The dealer is going to swap it with a working unit on Wednesday to ensure that the unit is faulty!"
This further confirms what was stated in another thread, i.e. a DME ECM change does not require an immobilizer
change too, which Steve had indicated otherwise in the other thread as necessary.
#27
Immobilizer II, problem "NOT THE PROBLEM"
Listers,
First of all i want to thank all of you for the suggestions to have this problem solved.
A VERY SPECIAL THANKS TO STEVE WIENER OF RENNSPORT, who talked to me on the phone and gave excellent advice, suggestions, and helped to solve my problem!!! Thanks Steve!
My last update was that the 993 was in the Dealer's shop. And, that they were going to swap another DME, form the parts man, Derick Rush's 1997, 993.
That did not solve the problem!!!
They tested Crankshaft Position Sensor, all okay. Tested engine Temperature Sensor, fine. Tested Ground supply, Terminal 15. Checked terminal 30 and noted only 9.5 Volt, too low. Installed a jumper wire to the T30 pin, car now starts right up. Referred to the wiring dire gram found easiest test point was at the DME Relay. Tested Pin 1 and 3, 9.5 volt. Removed panel and found broken spice point causing high resistance… This was respliced and soldered.
So after all that grief, thinking a $$$ refurbished DME or a refurbished Alternator, it was and came down to a broken wire/splice under the fuse box/panel.
The cost was just the labor and the shop gave me a break on the cost!
Maybe my notes could help somebody in the future! The Rennlist and all of us on it form such a helpful group of Porsche 993 owners.
Love you all for your commitment to this list!
Warmest Regards,
Bert Leemburg
Calgary Alberta
Canada
First of all i want to thank all of you for the suggestions to have this problem solved.
A VERY SPECIAL THANKS TO STEVE WIENER OF RENNSPORT, who talked to me on the phone and gave excellent advice, suggestions, and helped to solve my problem!!! Thanks Steve!
My last update was that the 993 was in the Dealer's shop. And, that they were going to swap another DME, form the parts man, Derick Rush's 1997, 993.
That did not solve the problem!!!
They tested Crankshaft Position Sensor, all okay. Tested engine Temperature Sensor, fine. Tested Ground supply, Terminal 15. Checked terminal 30 and noted only 9.5 Volt, too low. Installed a jumper wire to the T30 pin, car now starts right up. Referred to the wiring dire gram found easiest test point was at the DME Relay. Tested Pin 1 and 3, 9.5 volt. Removed panel and found broken spice point causing high resistance… This was respliced and soldered.
So after all that grief, thinking a $$$ refurbished DME or a refurbished Alternator, it was and came down to a broken wire/splice under the fuse box/panel.
The cost was just the labor and the shop gave me a break on the cost!
Maybe my notes could help somebody in the future! The Rennlist and all of us on it form such a helpful group of Porsche 993 owners.
Love you all for your commitment to this list!
Warmest Regards,
Bert Leemburg
Calgary Alberta
Canada
#28
...found easiest test point was at the DME Relay. Tested Pin 1 and 3, 9.5 volt
Removed panel and found broken spice point causing high resistance
Thanks for posting the found problem and fix...
#29
RL Technical Advisor
Hi Bert,
Great news!!
I'm very pleased that the dealership folks found the problem and resolved this. Even better that it was a cheap fix.
Hopefully you still have some good enough weather up there to keep driving it this year.
Best regards,
Great news!!
I'm very pleased that the dealership folks found the problem and resolved this. Even better that it was a cheap fix.
Hopefully you still have some good enough weather up there to keep driving it this year.
Best regards,
#30
Burning Brakes
I agree with the prior posters. If the engine turns over, then the issue is most likely not an immobilizer issue. The immobilizer shuts off power to the starter motor. As pointed out, Steve Weiner can disable the immobilizer function in the ECU.......but, then you will get a blinking light telling you that the immobilizer module (located under the passenger seat) is looking for an immobilizer.......but can't find it.....and signals with a blinking light on your clock! So, you have to bypass that relay, which is done by replacing the relay with a jumper strip (easy and cheap to do). But, having the ECU programmed to delete the immobilizer is NOT cheap.
So, I would look elsewhere for your issue. The ignition lock is certainly a potential and likely culprit.
So, I would look elsewhere for your issue. The ignition lock is certainly a potential and likely culprit.