View Poll Results: Only one Valve Cover gasket is leaky...what should I do:
Change ALL 4 valve cover gaskets....because new is better
16
72.73%
Change ONLY 1, leave the others be
6
27.27%
Voters: 22. You may not vote on this poll
Valve cover gasket service
07-31-2014, 12:19 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
Bruce7s is good for the lowers. This one is good for the uppers(w/ engine in). Seems like uppers lowers and plugs could be a good 1-2-3 punch.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...tructions.html
Is there any reason (engine in car replacement) that you couldn't start car and let get to operating temp to check for leaks before reassembling. I guess without mufflers or heat exchangers I guess that could be pretty loud.
Boman, only thing you did wrong is you should have used the same camera that you used to take your avatar pic
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...tructions.html
Is there any reason (engine in car replacement) that you couldn't start car and let get to operating temp to check for leaks before reassembling. I guess without mufflers or heat exchangers I guess that could be pretty loud.
Boman, only thing you did wrong is you should have used the same camera that you used to take your avatar pic
07-31-2014, 01:59 PM
#17
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Do just the lowers, uppers do not have to deal with as much pooling oil and do not leak nearly as much as the bottoms. If you have time/energy then do the uppers just for kicks.
IMHO, the chain covers are much easier to do in the car unless you put the engine on a stand - then its easier there. That is from the perspective of having a two post lift - since I then work on the rear of the engine at eye height. To do the chain covers, you will need to get UNDER the engine, which is hard to do in most shops if the engine/transmission is sitting on a table out of the car.
I am in the middle of doing a chain cover gasket replace right now, broke 8 bolts so far due to rusting (ALL four exhaust clamp bolts, both cat strap bolts, and two off the exhaust manifold to cat joint..). Just finished buttoning up the covers, now waiting for some replacement parts..
A few suggestions that might help:
- if the studs come out with the nut attached, remove the nut from the stud in a vice (using teflon or something soft to hold the stud), loctite the stud back into the case and then use the nut to tighten down the rubber donut - you will get correct compression that way when torqued to 7 ft-lbs. Otherwise you are compression it down until the stud hits bottom, which is not correct.
- lubricate all the rubber with 101 for longer term pliability
- make sure everything is CLEAN CLEAN - it may involved some very light emery on the slot in the covers, as well as smoothing out the other surfaces as best as possible.
- be careful when the covers are off, its an open hole to the crankcase through the chain covers - anything dropped in there will cause much grief.
- you will need to remove the flywheel pulley which , if the engine and transmission has been dropped but not separated is difficult since you need to lock down the crankshaft. If the engine is in the car, have someone use the brakes, put the car in gear with the clutch out, and then torque the flywheel pulley back on. If the engine/transmission has been separated, then you can lock down the flywheel
- if you have reasonable mileage, plan on replacing the cat shield clips, various bolts, and possibly the cat shield itself because of heat and corrosion
Have fun!
Cheers,
Mike
IMHO, the chain covers are much easier to do in the car unless you put the engine on a stand - then its easier there. That is from the perspective of having a two post lift - since I then work on the rear of the engine at eye height. To do the chain covers, you will need to get UNDER the engine, which is hard to do in most shops if the engine/transmission is sitting on a table out of the car.
I am in the middle of doing a chain cover gasket replace right now, broke 8 bolts so far due to rusting (ALL four exhaust clamp bolts, both cat strap bolts, and two off the exhaust manifold to cat joint..). Just finished buttoning up the covers, now waiting for some replacement parts..
A few suggestions that might help:
- if the studs come out with the nut attached, remove the nut from the stud in a vice (using teflon or something soft to hold the stud), loctite the stud back into the case and then use the nut to tighten down the rubber donut - you will get correct compression that way when torqued to 7 ft-lbs. Otherwise you are compression it down until the stud hits bottom, which is not correct.
- lubricate all the rubber with 101 for longer term pliability
- make sure everything is CLEAN CLEAN - it may involved some very light emery on the slot in the covers, as well as smoothing out the other surfaces as best as possible.
- be careful when the covers are off, its an open hole to the crankcase through the chain covers - anything dropped in there will cause much grief.
- you will need to remove the flywheel pulley which , if the engine and transmission has been dropped but not separated is difficult since you need to lock down the crankshaft. If the engine is in the car, have someone use the brakes, put the car in gear with the clutch out, and then torque the flywheel pulley back on. If the engine/transmission has been separated, then you can lock down the flywheel
- if you have reasonable mileage, plan on replacing the cat shield clips, various bolts, and possibly the cat shield itself because of heat and corrosion
Have fun!
Cheers,
Mike
07-31-2014, 02:39 PM
#18
Drifting
Thread Starter
Bruce7s is good for the lowers. This one is good for the uppers(w/ engine in). Seems like uppers lowers and plugs could be a good 1-2-3 punch.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...tructions.html
Is there any reason (engine in car replacement) that you couldn't start car and let get to operating temp to check for leaks before reassembling. I guess without mufflers or heat exchangers I guess that could be pretty loud.
Boman, only thing you did wrong is you should have used the same camera that you used to take your avatar pic
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...tructions.html
Is there any reason (engine in car replacement) that you couldn't start car and let get to operating temp to check for leaks before reassembling. I guess without mufflers or heat exchangers I guess that could be pretty loud.
Boman, only thing you did wrong is you should have used the same camera that you used to take your avatar pic
Still haven't taken the classic engine-out pic with me standing in the engine bay though...
Do just the lowers, uppers do not have to deal with as much pooling oil and do not leak nearly as much as the bottoms. If you have time/energy then do the uppers just for kicks.
IMHO, the chain covers are much easier to do in the car unless you put the engine on a stand - then its easier there. That is from the perspective of having a two post lift - since I then work on the rear of the engine at eye height. To do the chain covers, you will need to get UNDER the engine, which is hard to do in most shops if the engine/transmission is sitting on a table out of the car.
I am in the middle of doing a chain cover gasket replace right now, broke 8 bolts so far due to rusting (ALL four exhaust clamp bolts, both cat strap bolts, and two off the exhaust manifold to cat joint..). Just finished buttoning up the covers, now waiting for some replacement parts..
A few suggestions that might help:
- if the studs come out with the nut attached, remove the nut from the stud in a vice (using teflon or something soft to hold the stud), loctite the stud back into the case and then use the nut to tighten down the rubber donut - you will get correct compression that way when torqued to 7 ft-lbs. Otherwise you are compression it down until the stud hits bottom, which is not correct.
- lubricate all the rubber with 101 for longer term pliability
- make sure everything is CLEAN CLEAN - it may involved some very light emery on the slot in the covers, as well as smoothing out the other surfaces as best as possible.
- be careful when the covers are off, its an open hole to the crankcase through the chain covers - anything dropped in there will cause much grief.
- you will need to remove the flywheel pulley which , if the engine and transmission has been dropped but not separated is difficult since you need to lock down the crankshaft. If the engine is in the car, have someone use the brakes, put the car in gear with the clutch out, and then torque the flywheel pulley back on. If the engine/transmission has been separated, then you can lock down the flywheel
- if you have reasonable mileage, plan on replacing the cat shield clips, various bolts, and possibly the cat shield itself because of heat and corrosion
Have fun!
Cheers,
Mike
IMHO, the chain covers are much easier to do in the car unless you put the engine on a stand - then its easier there. That is from the perspective of having a two post lift - since I then work on the rear of the engine at eye height. To do the chain covers, you will need to get UNDER the engine, which is hard to do in most shops if the engine/transmission is sitting on a table out of the car.
I am in the middle of doing a chain cover gasket replace right now, broke 8 bolts so far due to rusting (ALL four exhaust clamp bolts, both cat strap bolts, and two off the exhaust manifold to cat joint..). Just finished buttoning up the covers, now waiting for some replacement parts..
A few suggestions that might help:
- if the studs come out with the nut attached, remove the nut from the stud in a vice (using teflon or something soft to hold the stud), loctite the stud back into the case and then use the nut to tighten down the rubber donut - you will get correct compression that way when torqued to 7 ft-lbs. Otherwise you are compression it down until the stud hits bottom, which is not correct.
- lubricate all the rubber with 101 for longer term pliability
- make sure everything is CLEAN CLEAN - it may involved some very light emery on the slot in the covers, as well as smoothing out the other surfaces as best as possible.
- be careful when the covers are off, its an open hole to the crankcase through the chain covers - anything dropped in there will cause much grief.
- you will need to remove the flywheel pulley which , if the engine and transmission has been dropped but not separated is difficult since you need to lock down the crankshaft. If the engine is in the car, have someone use the brakes, put the car in gear with the clutch out, and then torque the flywheel pulley back on. If the engine/transmission has been separated, then you can lock down the flywheel
- if you have reasonable mileage, plan on replacing the cat shield clips, various bolts, and possibly the cat shield itself because of heat and corrosion
Have fun!
Cheers,
Mike
I ended up stripping 2 engine tin/tub hex bolts when I was doing the valve covers. Luckily, after removing the bottom valve cover I was able to get some vice grips on the bolt heads and twist them out ~ of course, after they soaked for a night in penetrating oil. I did see other members needing to drill or cut them out...My nightmare was far less involved. Porsche Canada wants 7 bucks each for those bolts; whereas the (similar) valve cover bolts were a dollar each. I don't get it!
Again, thank you so much for the advice! I'm having a great time and learning an incredible amount.
.
07-31-2014, 05:52 PM
#19
When I did mine I purchased a bunch of polished stainless high grade capscrews and washers from Fastenal. The bag of 50 was like $15 and they're way nicer to work with, you'd have to really try to round one off.
If you go this way put a bit of copper or nickel anti-seize on them since they're going into aluminum. I still torqued mine to spec even though the anti-seize acts as a lubricant. Given they're higher grade fasteners than OEM I figured its a wash.
I also replaced the heat exchanger to cat converter hardware with stainless bolts/locknuts so I'll never have to deal with corrosion there.
If you go this way put a bit of copper or nickel anti-seize on them since they're going into aluminum. I still torqued mine to spec even though the anti-seize acts as a lubricant. Given they're higher grade fasteners than OEM I figured its a wash.
I also replaced the heat exchanger to cat converter hardware with stainless bolts/locknuts so I'll never have to deal with corrosion there.