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Old 07-27-2014, 08:03 PM
  #16  
therossinator
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Originally Posted by skywachr
Eibachs produce a very weird looking lowered stance on the car with the rear appearing to look lower than the front though not actually so in reality by measurement.
The measurement you take beneath your car to determine ride height and the car's "stance" are by definition the same and are dependent on how you set your Bilsteins, not really related to springs. The springs will determine stiffness but if you have the Bilsteins you can set the height via preload with the locking collar to set a height.

Aesthetics didn't keep me away from the Eibachs, the stiffness alone drew me towards the M030s.
Old 07-29-2014, 10:05 AM
  #17  
Prattie
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I think I'll check out what's actually fitted at the moment. There appears to be some options and the car may have been changed previously.

I will chuck the old but feel its best to check them all first, when changing I'll keep the older springs and if I have to change the things twice then so be it. Will probably get the FSDs to hold in reserve until needed,make up my mind on the springs when change comes about.(got the springs at a very good price).

I'm sure there will be more posts on the subject already checked the Koni site and FSDs are the ones for my needs.
Old 07-29-2014, 04:09 PM
  #18  
Prattie
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Also just picked up some threads on 911uk forum on the subject and it would seem the preferred set up is the M030 springs (on some they are standard apparently on C2 poss the C2s ) hence my previous post regarding checking. Then just fit the Koni FSDs then if firmer needed stronger sways/antiroll bars.

Got a price at £730 on the FSDs apart from some secondhand at 630 odd (no idea of mileage however.
Old 07-29-2014, 08:08 PM
  #19  
stace
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also keep in mind that after changing dampers and springs a proper 4 wheel alignment should be done. in addition it can be difficult to find someone who has both the specialized tools and the knowledge to properly align these cars. I wouldn't want to swap parts here and there on a trial basis and need to be aligning the car each time. just a consideration as you sort through all the options. good luck - let us know how the car drives after you complete the suspension changes!
Old 07-29-2014, 11:37 PM
  #20  
Ed Hughes
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As noted above, the Eibach springs really aren't very good. Sag over time, as well.
Old 07-31-2014, 04:42 PM
  #21  
Prattie
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So majy differing opinions.

Wrote to the seller and he had used them with standard shocks and found the progressive nature of the lowered springs very good. He said they firm up under harder compression, for example in a corner.

There is one common comment comming through and thats that the shocks are likely to be on there way out, im on 52000 miles.

steve
Old 07-31-2014, 06:31 PM
  #22  
Mike J
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Originally Posted by Prattie
There is one common comment comming through and thats that the shocks are likely to be on there way out, im on 52000 miles.

steve
If they are the original crap shocks, they are guaranteed to be toast. Period. I have done many sets now, and have yet to get to an original shock that I could not compress easily.
Old 08-01-2014, 09:24 AM
  #23  
techman1
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Mike,

I am looking for any direct feedback regarding shock replacement and keeping the stock spring. I realize it will entail a second alignment, but I will upgrade the suspension in stages, shocks then springs. Need to spread out the cost.

75K on a 1995, looking to start with the FSD shocks, then the ROW height comfort springs (mo33 or mo32 ?)

My question is: Are there any other items that will need to be replaced to get the FSD shocks installed with old springs? Have you ever done an upgrade, and re-used the old springs? In a perfect world I would do a complete update, but ...need to stick to replacing what is really worn out. Kids and college.
Old 08-01-2014, 11:04 AM
  #24  
Ed Hughes
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All the more reason to perhaps wait, IMO. With the cost of a good alignment being a substantial percentage of the cost of springs, why not save a few more months?

Originally Posted by techman1
Mike,

I am looking for any direct feedback regarding shock replacement and keeping the stock spring. I realize it will entail a second alignment, but I will upgrade the suspension in stages, shocks then springs. Need to spread out the cost.

75K on a 1995, looking to start with the FSD shocks, then the ROW height comfort springs (mo33 or mo32 ?)

My question is: Are there any other items that will need to be replaced to get the FSD shocks installed with old springs? Have you ever done an upgrade, and re-used the old springs? In a perfect world I would do a complete update, but ...need to stick to replacing what is really worn out. Kids and college.
Old 08-01-2014, 11:38 AM
  #25  
Mike J
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Originally Posted by techman1
Mike,

I am looking for any direct feedback regarding shock replacement and keeping the stock spring. I realize it will entail a second alignment, but I will upgrade the suspension in stages, shocks then springs. Need to spread out the cost.

75K on a 1995, looking to start with the FSD shocks, then the ROW height comfort springs (mo33 or mo32 ?)

My question is: Are there any other items that will need to be replaced to get the FSD shocks installed with old springs? Have you ever done an upgrade, and re-used the old springs? In a perfect world I would do a complete update, but ...need to stick to replacing what is really worn out. Kids and college.
I totally agree with Ed, spreading out the costs will cost a lot more, primarily because of the alignment costs. You can certainly swap out just the shocks, use the stock springs, and go for it if you really want to, but I would find a used set of springs that you might like to cut costs. They come up all the time here on Rennlist.

As far as replacing the shocks, on the fronts, you have the three plastic holders (for the abs/brake sensor connector, the ground wire holder, and the cable holder) which is almost always reusable. Ordering new ones is cheap anyways. The rubber bump stop about 1/2 the time is toast, I would check yours out before pulling the shocks to see if you need ordering. The bellows also can be torn or brittle. The shock top bearing is another wear item, I have seen a few bad ones, typically they are OK, they are a couple of hundred each if they are bad. On the rear, same story.

So its up to you, doing two alignments will cost you another $300 - which can get you a set of used springs. I might have a set coming of the car (swapping it to PSS10's right now), let me check to see what they are, and if they are for sale.

Cheers,

Mike
Old 08-01-2014, 12:57 PM
  #26  
techman1
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Thanks, Ed and Mike!

I am still at stock, SUV ride height, so if the springs are the ROW, and priced right, I would be able to get the FSD shocks, those springs, and be a happy camper!
The current bump stop is turning to powder, if that is the one you are referring to. I thought the FSD came with their own on the shock?

O'Neal
Old 08-01-2014, 01:08 PM
  #27  
Mike J
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The Koni's I have put in used the factory bump stops, if I remember correctly.
Old 08-01-2014, 01:43 PM
  #28  
Kika
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Originally Posted by Prattie
So majy differing opinions.

Wrote to the seller and he had used them with standard shocks and found the progressive nature of the lowered springs very good. He said they firm up under harder compression, for example in a corner.

There is one common comment comming through and thats that the shocks are likely to be on there way out, im on 52000 miles.

steve


yes, a very subjective topic.

there are a ton of threads on the "best" suspension, problem is, it is different for different people, depending on their objectives.

If at all possible, drive other 993s with different components and see what appeals to you. Most Rennlisters would be happy to let another RLer drive their car. the downside to this route is, you may think you are happy with your car, then you drive one with a golden rod, whoa! now you gotta have one of those, then you drive one with RoW Turbo ARBs, then you gotta get those....

for this reason I refuse to test drive a turbo.

The one common thought is that original Monroes are long gone, and should be replaced, age has caught up with them, and there are a variety of better alternatives available on the market.

consider the type of roads you will do a majority of your driving on, and what you expect from the car in terms of ride comfort.

GL
Old 08-01-2014, 01:49 PM
  #29  
96PCarrera993mg
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I have the original Monroe shocks with Eibach springs and I hate the ride, the suspension has an un-eaven and unbalanced feel to it, I can honestly say that Eibach springs suck and Monroe shocks are in the same category. Within the next few months I will be in the market for either Bilstein PSS10 or Bilstein HD with M030 or M033 springs. I don't track the car and it has 46K miles on the clock, which system would you all recommend?
Old 08-01-2014, 02:01 PM
  #30  
Kika
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Originally Posted by 96PCarrera993mg
I have the original Monroe shocks with Eibach springs and I hate the ride, the suspension has an un-eaven and unbalanced feel to it, I can honestly say that Eibach springs suck and Monroe shocks are in the same category. Within the next few months I will be in the market for either Bilstein PSS10 or Bilstein HD with M030 or M033 springs. I don't track the car and it has 46K miles on the clock, which system would you all recommend?
many schools of thought.

I have Bilstein HD/M030, and love the set up, but that was before PSS10s came out. I do not track my car, but I do like an aggressive suspension. While the PSS10s are more costly, I don't believe you ever LOSE money, as it will be re-couped if/when you sell the car.

THE reason to go with PSS10 is adjust-ability, you can dial it in the way YOU like it. Even if you don't ever change it (as most people I know don't). I believe the PSS10s also have different valving than the HDs

If I had to do replace now, I would go PSS10. IF cost is a major factor, then I can recommend HD/M030, however, before you purchase, I would recommend that you drive a car with that set up. HDs can be on the harsh side, it all depends on personal preference (also if you are on 17s or 18s, tires, pressure and road quality)

ultimately both are improvements over Monroes.


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