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Power Steering Fluid Drain & Flush

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Old 01-14-2013, 06:41 PM
  #16  
IXLR8
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Originally Posted by trophy
AS for the filter, make sure the filter you use in the return line is a full flow filter, wouldn't want to see a restriction in the return not allowing the return to support the pressure side and have the PS pump cavitate.
Steve, the PS fluid filter supposedly has a by-pass as well as a built-in magnet.

Space is limited when looking at the tight U loop in the return line just prior to the reservoir, and with the rest of the line being plastic, no choice in the matter as to location (I'm not about to cut the plastic line). I'd have to use an extra length of hose and loop it back.

I got the idea after going to a major steering rack rebuild site (for the Honda CR-V) and they recommend using a filter in the return line for longevity.

Thinking about it, I'd be easier to just flush the system every so many years.

Originally Posted by trophy
Did you think of using a pressurized approach? Like using a Motive Brake Bleed to pressurise the PS Reservoir and push the fluid out?
Never thought of it, but would not consider it. Its just as easy to turn the engine over for a few seconds using the starter. Besides, I have no idea how free flowing the pump would be while stationary.
Old 01-14-2013, 06:49 PM
  #17  
IXLR8
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Originally Posted by Silvertarga
It seems that it would be easier to put a filter on the line with the screw clamp as shown in your pic of the reservoir, is this not advisable?
Location-wise, probably. But I'd want free flow prior to the pump...its pretty well gravity feed at that point.
Old 01-14-2013, 08:50 PM
  #18  
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I just pump out the fluid in the rez, then refill and turn the wheel, then repeat till the fluid is clean, takes about 20min and you don't have to jack up the car. I do this with every 30kmi service.
Old 01-19-2013, 12:09 PM
  #19  
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Cool project, Alex.

Now we're waiting for you to figure out a way to do the oil change and get all the old oil out.

Also, what are your plans for replacing/upgrading the A/C resistor (I think that's what it is) behind the front bumper?
Old 01-19-2013, 12:15 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Rinty
Also, what are your plans for replacing/upgrading the A/C resistor behind the front bumper?
Why, do they need upgrading? The one in my 993 is still original and working. If it fails, I'll just replace it with the same since the original has lasted this long.

On the subject of "upgrades", most of them aren't...they are just replacements.
Old 01-19-2013, 12:52 PM
  #21  
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They're exposed to the weather up in front there, and they can corrode, and then the A/C shuts down. One Rennlister figured out a way to weather proof his resistor, and another designed a replacement unit.

I wouldn/t worry about it either, but with your new hoist, it would be easy preventive maintenance for you. You could reposition the thing for easier access, while you're in there.
Old 01-19-2013, 02:14 PM
  #22  
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Regarding filters, some reservoirs have one built in the bottom. Anyone check ours?
Old 01-19-2013, 02:50 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by techman1
Regarding filters, some reservoirs have one built in the bottom. Anyone check ours?
I'll know for sure the next time when I remove the reservoir. I didn't have a clamp to replace the one-time-use clamp on the return line when I performed the flush, so I didn't remove it.

I did notice a plate that was above the bottom of the reservoir...a baffle maybe.
Old 01-20-2013, 12:48 PM
  #24  
Paul902
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Alex, great write up! Very clean rack and undersides. Are you repeating next year just to do the filter, or do you plan to do it every year, or is it another reason?

I have Knipex Oetiker pliers and a few dual-ear 1/2" clamps that you are welcome to, it that helps. I suspect the clamps ar much too small for this application. Would be nice to find someone who sells clamps in a kit of assorted sizes, just to have on hand.
Old 01-20-2013, 12:54 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Paul902
Are you repeating next year just to do the filter, or do you plan to do it every year, or is it another reason?
Now that I have a lift, I plan to drop the engine/transmission next winter to take care of a few things on my to-do list.

I have the Oetiker pliers and will order the Oetiker stepless ear clamps as required.
Old 01-24-2013, 01:21 AM
  #26  
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Most excellent documentation, thank you for taking the time!

I too, cannot believe what great condition that 14year undercarriage is in. I was convinced these were factory shots of a brand new car. Even the rubber hoses and bushings look brand new. Did you spray with some detergents before steam cleaning? Unbelievable. Here's what mine looks like:


As you can see, I need to follow your footsteps….and then some.

Mine has a brownish coating, as you can see, which looks sprayed on because it clumps and coagulates. I had assumed this was an anti-corrosion coating but maybe it’s just accumulated crud - did you have this on yours prior to clean?

Just a couple of Q's, you say to use Pentosil CHF202. My manual says Pentosil CHF11. Is that a manufacturing year change or does 202 have better rubber preservatives? Perhaps 202 is a different color to tell when the fluid is flushed? I’m learning about this as fast as I can.

Did you really need the 2nd liter or could you do it with one if you're careful? I can't seem to find a capacity for the PS system in any of my books.

Oh, and before I get flamed for not posting a picture of my car (my 2nd post here but 1059762th read) Here is mine on the outside:
Old 01-25-2013, 12:04 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by IainM
Did you spray with some detergents before steam cleaning?
I used kerosene on the tough stuff, then Xenit Cleaner & Remover and then finished off with Swish Facto AT30.

Mine looked just like your pic. They all do.


Originally Posted by IainM
I had assumed this was an anti-corrosion coating?
That is what it is and a damn good one. If you winter drive your car or live right on the ocean (salt fog), I'd leave it on.

Originally Posted by IainM
Just a couple of Q's, you say to use Pentosin CHF202. My manual says Pentosin CHF11. Is that a manufacturing year change or does 202 have better rubber preservatives? Perhaps 202 is a different color to tell when the fluid is flushed?
According to Pelican Parts, CHF 202 supersedes CHF 11S. Both spec sheets have nearly the same numbers and are a dark green. The Porsche parts site supersedes CHF 11S to CHF 202.


Originally Posted by IainM
Did you really need the 2nd liter or could you do it with one if you're careful? I can't seem to find a capacity for the PS system in any of my books.
I believe the Porsche manuals states 1 liter. I always make sure I'm never short on something when starting a job. I had 3 liters on my shelf.

Last edited by IXLR8; 01-27-2013 at 07:26 PM.
Old 01-25-2013, 12:09 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by IainM
I'd replace that boot ASAP. Your rack is exposed and attracting dirt. I'd thoroughly clean the parts before buttoning it up.
Old 01-25-2013, 08:37 PM
  #29  
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WOW!
Old 01-27-2013, 06:35 PM
  #30  
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Absolutely, I'm on it.

A bit of digging and I found a reference to a poorly titled TSB #4802 "Clutch Fluid Update" which explains the change from CHF11S to CHF202. I can't find the TSB on any of the sites though so can't provide any more info.

My level in the steering pump reservoir is still on max (on the level, engine off & cold) so I think I'm going to put the rack brace and a new boot on and monitor.

Can anyone recommend a suitable grease to pack the boot with once I've cleaner it all up?


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