ozpilot

I recently noticed some oil leaks on my garage floor just forward of the right wheel arch, just behind the passenger door. It's not a major leak, just a couple of drops every week. But its annoying.

I took it to a local Porsche service shop and they told me I had a valve cover leak and a seep from the #1 cylinder. They recommended I get the engine dropped and sent out for reasealing. Estimate around $8 to $12K.

Before I do this I'd like some advice from the group.

This afternoon I removed the right rear wheel to take a better look and see if I could determine if the leak is coming from the lower valve cover. Pictures are attached below.

The oil is dripping from the lower frame just forward of the wheel arch next to the jack, but it appears to be coming from further up the engine. There are stains near the top of the coil spring but they appear to be dry.

I was unable to get a clear view of the lower valve covers because of the wheel arch. I've read that they could be changed by removing the rear wheel, but I cant see how to get to them. Am I missing something?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

p.s I did remove the forward wheel arch liner and checked the oil filter and tank and the leak does not appear to be coming from there.

No HTwo O

Whatever you do, don't go back to that shop with the $8-12K estimate.

cabrio993

It could be something as simple as a valve cover leaking. This is a easy repair that takes only new gaskets and a couple of hours to perform. No need to drop the engine and torn it apart if it is the valve covers.

You may want to take the engine tray off, and take pictures of the underside of the engine. If the leak is a trough bolt, then yes, you may need to do a complete reseal as you wrench is telling you to do.

However, I would get another mechanic because he wants waaay too much for a reseal at $12K.

PNogC2S

First of all - with that much oil everywhere, I don't think that the "seepage from the #1 cyl." could be accurately deteremined. Unless they cleaned the underside, ran it, re-checked and then you drove for a while before taking these pictures.
Start with the simple stuff first... replace your valve cover gaskets and clean up that mess. Then see if there is any more seepage from anywhere else.
You can definitely replace all the valve cover gaskets fairly easily... it's a DIY if you have some mechanical ability and the desire to do it.

element

post a pic of the engine as well.. will help track down the leak.. with it being that far forward im curious how it moved that far forward.

I have chain cover leaks.. valve cover gaskets are good.

phil.

ozpilot

Thanks for the advice. I'm ok with replacing the valve covers, I'm just not sure how to get acccess to them. I'm sure the easiest way would be with a lift, but I don't have one.

I've read that it can be done by removing the rear wheel (as described here: http://buying-a-porsche-993.blogspot...ker-valve.html). As I said above, I did that this afternoon but I don't see how I can access the valve cover from there. All I see is the rear suspension and the wheel arch lining.

rsr91128

Since we are all guessing until it is cleaned up, i'll add.

Find new shop that knows where #1 cylinder is

Could be a upper v/c leak?

Spill from recent oil fill/add?

Oil pressure sending unit?

cabrio993

Another thing to check is that you didn't overfill it with oil. If you do, when the oil gets hot and you make a turn, or the car sits in an uphill for too long, oild will gush out of the filler neck, ending up exactly where your picture shows the oil residue.

Kika

yup!

hchc

would that be power steering fluid? The pump/belt is above the suspension near that area. But agree, run away from that shop.

NP993

You're in Vermont, so get in touch with Rick Cabell at Eurotech in South Burlington. Terrific guy and the state's best air-cooled 911 guy. He drives a '98 C2S. 802-660-1900

PNogC2S

Here's another DIY link that may be of help to you http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...-_Valve_Covers

Jack up the rear of the car and put it on stands (follow proper safety procedures, yadda, yadda).
Remove the rear wheels, also remove the exhaust manifolds... they come off by removing 6 nuts at the heads, 3 at the exhaust,(x each side), and the clamps on the orange heater tubes. Unless the nuts are seized, the manifolds come off easily and give you LOTS more room to work. You will need to buy the 6 aluminum gaskets for the manifolds too - but the gaskets are cheap. Get the manifolds out of the way, and the rear wheels off and you have lots of room to work, then just follow the DIY and you are good to go.

JB 911

Yup I might find a different person to look at it. Opinions are pretty cheap, 8-12k, not so much.

ozpilot

Funny you should say that, I was considering calling that shop! (Its not the shop I took it too originally). I'll call Rick tomorrow. Thanks!

geolab

When I was 7 years old, I used to dream of going skiing to Vermont. All the ski magazine pictures where from Vermont. I used to ski everyday, but wanted to go to Vermont.
And now that the season is atop, you are verifying an oil leak ?
Ok, I hope you will have more time to ski than worry when you know what it is..
You have to imagine that your engine has a metal tray halfway surrounding it.
Any-all-each oil drop will fall under that metal tray surround or inside that surround.

Your picture shows oil at least 50 centimeters away from one corner of the engine.
In the first picture, you see the spring is at the level of the trans axle that goes in the gearbox. The axle meets the gearbox at aprox. 1 foot from the engine. So this oil is NOT from an engine leak, start skiing...
From the highest point of oil humid area in picture, oil is the nearest to the top of the shock absorber, or strut.
Now since the US 993 came originally with low profile struts which were highered because of a DOT directive, a lot of struts gave up quickly and leaked like merry cream.
So to me it is 90% the strut, 10% oil return tube seal or clamp to/from oil tank. Continue skiing
So since it will be the strut leaking, you will have to change it to either Bilstein, koni, or some other brand, and your car will handle so much better, after a suspension and new alignment, and you will be very happy that all on all, you got away with a new suspension, and your car handles perfectly with no engine leak. You saved thousands of $ , and you should not stop skiing