ClaylG

I couldn't even fathom doing that kind of work myself. Good for you.

kjr914

AOW, I'd put money that it is this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-eraser-kit-99636.html
And you put your blast cab to very good use!

I was in on the engine drop, and it DOES seem daunting as a whole when you think about the entire job. But break it down into small "bite-sized" pieces, each bit is do-able. (A copy of the factory manual and Toga's engine removal thread helps too!) Patience and a little mechanical creativity is the key, I think. A little "crazy" probably helps too! ...Oh and the ability to LIVE for long periods of time in your garage, as Adam does!

geolab

again great post, anybody knows what is the original wrinkled undercoat porsche painted ?
or should I use POR-15 ? thanks

ilko

Great thread! Reminds me of when I used to have time to spend countless hours in the garage

Blue Max

Adam,

Finally getting with the program and getting registered on Rennlist. Now, I have a clear picture of the bolt head drilling.

John

jungleboy

Adam - this reaaally doesn't sound like it's your first time at anything

enjoying the read!

Mark Harris

Adam,

You are sick man. I'm still pissed you bailed on us for the left coast. Incredible engine drop you got going. I'm enjoying the ride both here and on KCWS. You certainly have come a long way since the days when you stuck your head in my engine bay to get to that pesky SAI valve.

Based on the time it appears you are spending in the garage I would recommend ear marking a few extra $$ for a nice piece of David Yurman for Lana.

C4S993

I thought about dropping my C4S engine but chicken'd out because:

How did you get enough room under the care (safely) to get the prop shafts disconnected as
well as that u-shaped rear suspension piece that's under the eng/trans ? Did you have any trouble cracking the hex bolts on the half shafts to the diff ?

many thanks,

PS: Love that trans jack for lowering the eng, and lots of wood !

Patrick

flatsixforme

Thanks for the paint tip, I got a can per your suggestion! Keith (kjr914) is right, it's the cheap harbor freight item...worked really well with the only drawback being you had to fill it back up with grit once the cup dropped below 1/4.

Why do you think I have that nice big couch in there !?!?!?

I don't know but was wondering the same thing. When I cut into it in the thicker sections it almost looks like it is a very dense kind of foam. I'm going to paint things up and then use 3M Flexiclear to seal everything up properly.

Hi John! Everyone, meet John...he is the 3rd guy in the engine bay photo. He has a 997 but we don't hold that against him!

Thanks for the encouragement!

I'm still pissed you sold the C4S!!! You'll be back.... I remember that SAI job fondly...you would get a kick out of seeing it with the engine out...you can see that pigtail hose nice and easy. Oh, and you realize Lana is reading this and now is expecting some jewelry...thanks pal

Patrick, not sure I'm completely following but I'll answer the best I can. With the AWD as you know you have to deal with the big black torque tube that drives the front diff from the viscous coupling at the transmission. This is disconnected with 4 bolts to the tranny...2 you access in the car where you would adjust the parking brake and 2 under the car. Then you disconnect the coupling and slide off the transmission splines. Now, all you have to do is remove the 6 bolts of the tranny mount and you can lower it with the engine. If you go slow enough and pull the engine back slightly as you lower the prop shaft will separate safely. You will need to put a jack under the free hanging torque tube or fabricate the mounting plate suggrested by the factory manual.

For the engine to drop you need take off the u-shaped subframe which is helf on by 4 bolts. You also need to disconnect the toe link from the inside mounting point. Then it is a matter of getting the engine mounts figured out, which in my case were a real pain! As far as the half shafts, I had no issue on these, you just rotate the hub so you have access to the allen head bolts...I will say that you NEED a set of allen head sockets for this so you can get leverage.

All we needed for clearence was the top setting on the ESCO jack stands and some wood to make everything balance right.

JimGinKC

thanks for the rust shot Adam - you know my rear bumper is off. Now I have to try to sleep tonight knowing I'm not taking that cover off to look for corrosion...lol

Ed Hughes

Good to know there is SD experience when I drop mine. I've done 911's a few times, there is just more stuff to disconnect on these. Why was the bumper removed? Height clearance to pull the motor out, or is there an interference when it drops?

My lift has made height a non-issue on the 911.

I'll probably drop mine this winter for a new clutch.

flatsixforme

Ed,

Feel free to PM me for my address and you are welcome to stop by next weekend to check things out if interested. I'm learning a lot...mainly the kind of stuff that will allow me to do things in half the time if I were to do it again!

Ed Hughes

Thanks Adam, I will. I remember my first 911 drop, and then think about how the 4th or 5th is now. I put it back in by myself, but it's always more fun dropping with some folks in a "drop party" scenario.

flatsixforme

Okay, time for the next installment! I put some pretty long hours in starting Friday night and then through the weekend. I threw in the towel on Sunday in the early afternoon to go spend some time with my wife...her mood was quickly changing from chipper to "are you done yet?!?!?!" I guess I have to stop working on the car and get my posts caught up with the work I've done!

Primed the cleaned up rust sections




Engine pad removed


Not as much glue as I was expecting to have to clean...I'm not saying this is an easy task because it's not!!!

PorscheDoc

Nice! Did you guys get the clutch assembly R&R'd?