After taking my 1995 993 for a 300km drive the other day nearing home I had to stop due to the power steering pump whining. The reservoir was low on oil, I bought some ATF and topped it up which fixed the noise. When I returned I discovered fluid leaking from both ends of the rack out of the rubber boots, they were full of red atf!
After finding out the cost of a rebuild in New Zealand ($1500+) and the price of a new one is just plain stupid. I decided to rebuild it myself. Which was a 100% success. with a total cost of just over $100 and a few hours of my time.
I thought I would document this for future DIY'ers.
PLEASE NOTE: This is a right hand drive rack however the procedure will be almost identical for a LHD rack.
This was relativity simple and straightforward with no special tools required:
I welcome any feedback and corrections and thanks to jon928se for his initial advise on dis-assembly techniques.
It turns out the US kit (LHD) is slightly different to my RHD rack. They were very helpful and promptly sent me 4 square ring seals that were about 10mm bigger diameter to fit my input shaft at no extra cost! (nice guys!)
I have broken these DIY instructions into steps (each with its own large image that I am linking to to save huge images in this thread):
95 993, with several upgrades: Hardback Sport Seats, 3 spoke steering wheel, RS shifter and Aluminum hand brake, MY02 rims etc. There are also a few mods: Bilstein HD's, ROW MO30 springs and sways, Fister StageIII's and wide ovals, FDM SSK and Golden Rod, Tarett front drop links, ERP toe control links, Walrod bushings and instrument trim rings, SS brakelines, Rennline strut brace and pedals... and a whole load of parts sitting in my garage waiting for me to install them...
In stage 3, the diagram that you show removing the C-clip, have you put a dent in the inner edge (at around 5 O'clock) as a result of inserting screwdrivers into the groove to remove the C-clip? If you have, for someone-else trying this in the future perhaps making a hollow c shaped cylinder (ie an incomplete cylinder if you get what I mean) formed from a steel sheet and rotating it once the end of the clip is lifted into the cylinder may avoid nicking that part of the rack?
Hi RS man,
RE: c-clip removal, the u shape is part of the factory rack housing and is there to enable you to get the screwdriver behind the clip initially also this part of the rack has no seal surface and is external to the unit only covered by the rubber boot, so scratching is not a concern.
Yes we also thought of making a sheetmetal (1/2 circle) to slide down behind the screwdrivers as we worked our way around, this would have minimized our frustration when slipping and the clip pinging back into the groove - but with a few tries we got it out just fine.
Another question was what oil did I use. I read somewhere (and will locate it before my final assembly post) that certain types of ATF are fine. Since proper Porsche oils are not available in my town, I used Valvoline DX-3 ATF. I will include the proper refilling procedure too - at the end.
In the Garage currently:
74 911S - 3.6 G50 Quafe - faster
98 993 C2S Fabspeed everything - fast
Sadly these had to go:
1990 C2 Manual coupe
2001 996 TT euro exhaust - 500hp chipped, manual, Cobolt blue. fastest
95 993 RUF BTR2 - fastest
95 993 RUF BTR2 Cab fastest