kelpbeds

Hi,
New to the forum,
I have a 993 C2 on which the clutch has just started slipping, this has only happened once when really giving it some revs. Car is booked in to get clutch done in 3 weeks or so. Question is, am I ok to drive it meanwhile. I read that I could damage the flywheel or will this only happen if I allow it to slip?
Thanks

goofballdeluxe

If you're planning on keeping the DMF, then the more you drive on it, the more damage you could do to it. It would be a good time to think of upgrading to a LWF/RS clutch package, which is a nice upgrade. The LWF is more durable, weighs less and makes the motor spool up faster. If you decide to upgrade, then continuing to drive with some clutch slip won't be a problem.

Good luck!

kelpbeds

Hi,
Thanks for the reply, yes I was planning to keep the DMF, only out of cost implications. Just to be clear you are saying that I could do damage driving it now even if I don't allow the clutch to slip at all?
Cheers

CalvinC4S

Yeah, heat cracks.

tbil

If it's only slipped once with high revs you may be able to nurse it for another couple of weeks with no damage. Mine was fine and it was slipping a fair amount, may have just been lucky though.

kelpbeds

OK cheers for that, it will be sitting in the garage until the time comes - polishing time!

Slow Guy

When the clutch plate wears enough the rivets start to hit either the pressure plate or the flywheel (DMF) or both. The pressure plate is not an issue because you'll be replacing that anyway. However the flywheel would be an issue if you're not planning to replace it (either w/ a new DMF or a LWF) as most shops won't resurface the DMF because of the rubber inside the stock DMF. There are some shops that will resurface them though.

I went through this when I replaced the clutch in my 968, the rivets had just started to wear on the flywheel and I wasn't planning on replacing it. Wound up doing a "shadetree" resurface job and it worked well.

NP993

Are you sure your clutch is actually slipping? You say it only happened once. Never heard of it being a one-time thing, nor has that been my personal experience.

kelpbeds

No I'm not totally sure, I just assumed that was what it was. What happened was I put my foot down hard in second gear, the revs shot up very quickly without the car pulling away, very noticeable, which I assumed to be clutch slipping and given that the car has done just over 80000 miles I figured that the clutch would be on it's way out anyway.
I then tried to repeat this and it happened again, so it actually occurred twice.
Do you think it may not be the clutch?
thanks

Ponchobroke

I JUST got off the phone with Steve Weiner of Renn Sport having this same conversation. Steve suggests that even though you are anticipating staying with the dual mass flywheel setup that, due to DMF design,the age of these cars and the mileage, SERIOUS consideration; should be giver to fly wheel replacement. This and other considerations (age, driving style, driving experience, etc., I have opted for the LWF route.

Just my $.02...

Vorsicht

It sounds like clutch slippage to me. Has the clutch ever been changed? If not, you are due for a new one.

I am in the same situation as you. I am trying not to drive the car at all until the new clutch goes in. There is one thing you should consider and I'd like to hear what others have to say as i'm in decision mode on this right now.

The question is this: Given the mileage of the car (yours at 80K and mine at 95K) and the expense/time of dropping the engine, should we replace the DMF?

Some shops have told me to forget about resurfacing the DMF and one said to replace it at EVERY clutch change (a bit extreme). There are only three options - keep your existing DMF, get a new one or upgrade to the RS/LWF. I am sticking with option one or two and am having a hard time deciding what to do - keep or new. I have read here on the boards that a DMF has an average lifespan of around 100K. My concern is if I keep the existing 95K DMF and it fails 5K miles later I am stuck with dropping the engine a second time. I'm leaning towards just getting a new one.

I'd appreciate any and all opinions - I believe this applies to the both of us and other people in similar situations.

goofballdeluxe

Yeah, I cannot see a good reason to keep a DMF when the original clutch is going anyway. The LWF/RS clutch upgrade seems like a no-brainer, to me: lighter, more durable, less inertia, and quicker engine spool up. The downside is gear lash rattle, but I can't hear mine much because of my Fister Stage IIs

NP993

An 80K 993 clutch should not need replacement unless it was abused.

A healthy 993 can spin its rear tires (especially the inside tire if you're accelerating in a turn) if you mash the throttle in a low gear, especially on cold pavement/tires. Who knows, you may have a bum clutch, you may not; but if you do and it only slips when you get on it in 2nd gear, you're not going to cause any damage by driving in a manner so that it doesn't slip.

goofballdeluxe

I don't think I could agree with that. A clutch in a car that lives, say, in the hills of San Francisco and its stop-and-go traffic, might go at 80K or even less without having been abused.

On the other hand, a car that spent all it's time doing a constant 30 mile commute at 60mph on the freeway with no traffic might go 200K or more.

Lots depends on use, not always abuse.

inkatouring

Mine, always driven in San Francisco and not abused, needed to be replaced at 40k. YMMV.

If you need to replace the flywheel, a midweight one from ANDIAL might be the ticket.

If you have a '95, the midweight IS the ticket if you aren't keeping the dual mass -- do not use a lightweight in a '95 unless you are seriously in need of a true lightweight flywheel.....