Cactus

Which one should I use on single stage (no clearcoat) Guards Red? This is by hand only....no buffers/orbitals will be used.

Redblurr

Whats the purpose? Do you have bad swirl marks? I know that alot of the time you cant get rid of those unless you have it wet sanded and buffed. If your looking for a good polish to shine things up, I have discovered a new product that is new technology. I will pm you the info.

axl911

From what I understand, if you want to cover up the swirl, use the Glaze. I you want to remove the swirl, use the swirl remover.

1pcarnut

A glaze will fill in surface imperfections but eventually need refreshing. The swirl remover should do just what the name implies. I prefer the latter to get everything perfect, then after that polish and wax and needed, but hopefully never any more swirls.

SuperUser

and make sure to clay first

BufordTJ

I use both of the products and have color sanded many cars over the years. Everyone above is correct.
It depends on what your trying to accomplish. If your finish is swirl free and clay clean, then a nice coat of glaze then in a day follow it with a nice carnauba wax. MeGuiars Gold Class is excellent IMO. Also ReJex is nice for front bumper. But just like most things a good wax job is all in the prep work.

Cactus

It doesn't look bad until you get it under the truth lights (fluorescent). It just has some minor scratches, marks, etc.

csertich

I used 3M hand glaze on my polar silver paint and it really did a great job of taking out minor surface scratches, etc. Paint looked 'smooth as glass' when I was done. It might help that my car is a lighter color. Perhaps it wouldn't have looked as good if mine were red or black, etc.
chuck

BufordTJ

My first Porsche was a lipis blue boxster and it looked great on the car lot the day I bought her. But I knew as soon as I got her home and under the truth lights she would look different. I was right scratches and oxidation everywhere.
After some serious clay bar work, buffing with a soft foam pad and swirl remover, and following with 3 coats of gold class, not one scratch in any light.
A month after I sold it the new owner called me and wanted to know what wax I used and how to keep it looking that clean.

Catus - If you lived near me I'd polish it for free. Fix those tiny scratches and make her perfect. I know you wouldn't have it any other way!

Cactus

Thanks Buford. I was never much of an outside detailer but I can really go to town on the interior!

LAURIER

Fluorescent lights will actually make the car look great compared to the real condition of the paint. You need halogen, LED or sunlight to see how good or bad it is and what need to be done.

1pcarnut

I've found florescent pretty good at showing differences in color and scratches, where as in sunlight, it's harder to see the minor scratches due to the brilliance.

matt777

I just did my Polar Silver car. I started to clay bar but its pretty clean. Not wanting to use a product that cuts I used 3M Perfect It Glaze with a rotary buffer wheel and foam pad. I then used Meguir's NXT wax. It looks pretty good now but I'm not sure if the wax does any good over top of the glazing. If we had some sunlight here I might scrutinize it outside.

mongrelcat

I would try Optimum Poli-Seal first.
http://www.detailedimage.com/Optimum...P292/32-oz-S1/
http://www.optimumcarcare.com/opseal.htm?li=4

Follow-up with Opti-Seal, or just the Car Wax product.

For claying, use something soft (fine) otherwise you could introduce additional marring. Use plenty of lube when claying (diluted Optimum No-Rinse is ideal for this.) Sonus ultra-fine grade is good, I like Bilt-Hamber which is harder to find, but nice because it really works, yet it's gentle and you only need plain water for lube.

Yes, I love Optimum products (no affiliation.)

Augustus Davies

.... truth lights are halogen...