Self Gratification with Pictures - Outlaw 993 - Updated with Dec 2010 Mods!
01-24-2011, 04:36 AM
#154
Racer
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 400
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Macca
Your car looks great and great to see a righthand drive car.
I have done simular to a black 1997 manual coupe in Australia.
Complete respray, stripped back to bare metal.
Turbo front bumper
Turbo S rear engine cover- genuine Porsche.
PSS10 shocks
18inch Turbo wheels
Replaced every bit and piece that was not perfect.
Installed auto windows control, purchased from a chap from NZ.
Thanks, Neil Sydney Australia
Your car looks great and great to see a righthand drive car.
I have done simular to a black 1997 manual coupe in Australia.
Complete respray, stripped back to bare metal.
Turbo front bumper
Turbo S rear engine cover- genuine Porsche.
PSS10 shocks
18inch Turbo wheels
Replaced every bit and piece that was not perfect.
Installed auto windows control, purchased from a chap from NZ.
Thanks, Neil Sydney Australia
01-24-2011, 04:50 AM
#155
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hi Guys. Thanks again for the positive feedback.
Neil. Sounds like we are peas in a pod! I also insalled the same auto window control from the NZ engineer guy. Works a treat on my drivers window and is one of those subtle mods that was worth its weight in gold (unlike some I have made LOL!). Your car sounds great!
Cheers
M
Neil. Sounds like we are peas in a pod! I also insalled the same auto window control from the NZ engineer guy. Works a treat on my drivers window and is one of those subtle mods that was worth its weight in gold (unlike some I have made LOL!). Your car sounds great!
Cheers
M
01-24-2011, 05:03 AM
#156
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Neil.
I too found one side of the rear was offset by 5-8mm when I loved the car on Bilstiens. One rear fender is slightly higher than the other (5mm) although the actual height of the lower toe link arms from the ground only varies by a fractin of that (2mm). It seems thats a common issue although its pretty annoying once you know its there.
To get a great shify feel replace the nylon shifter ball cup as previously stated or go to FD and get a Hemie jointed front control rod. Treat yourself to their golden rod and RS shifter and you wont look back. All three improve shoft feel, speed, preciseness and are worthwhile.
Cheers
M
I too found one side of the rear was offset by 5-8mm when I loved the car on Bilstiens. One rear fender is slightly higher than the other (5mm) although the actual height of the lower toe link arms from the ground only varies by a fractin of that (2mm). It seems thats a common issue although its pretty annoying once you know its there.
To get a great shify feel replace the nylon shifter ball cup as previously stated or go to FD and get a Hemie jointed front control rod. Treat yourself to their golden rod and RS shifter and you wont look back. All three improve shoft feel, speed, preciseness and are worthwhile.
Cheers
M
01-24-2011, 05:57 AM
#157
Racer
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 400
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Macca,
I only fitted the the PSS10 a couple of weeks a go, as you know.
It took about 5 hours to fit the PSS10's and 3.5 days to get the ride hights perfect.
That is the ride hights from the Porsche measuring points under the car and the hights between the top of the tyre and guard. It had to look right.
Front left and right all measurments the same and the rear right and left is only out by .5 mm,
it was worth the time and looks great.
Yes, the issue with the rear tyres/wheel offset to the guards, it is out by about 10 mm, I am going too loosen the rear subframe and try and push it accross, I have been told it is possible to move it.
Thanks,
Neil
I only fitted the the PSS10 a couple of weeks a go, as you know.
It took about 5 hours to fit the PSS10's and 3.5 days to get the ride hights perfect.
That is the ride hights from the Porsche measuring points under the car and the hights between the top of the tyre and guard. It had to look right.
Front left and right all measurments the same and the rear right and left is only out by .5 mm,
it was worth the time and looks great.
Yes, the issue with the rear tyres/wheel offset to the guards, it is out by about 10 mm, I am going too loosen the rear subframe and try and push it accross, I have been told it is possible to move it.
Thanks,
Neil
01-24-2011, 07:15 AM
#158
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hi Neil,
Some playing around does help however I found once fully aligned and corner balanced things changed again.
I think you will find when you get the offsets right your guard to tyre height will vary again between sides as currently you will be measuring from a different sectional profile.
It is possible to move the subframe once you have dismantled the wheels, shocks, sway bars but it is better to have the transmission out so it can be done from the top mounting bolts. Its unusual yours should have shifted hoever as my understanding is the frame is pretty well secured.
Ive attached pictures of when mine was done in Feb 2010. I had to have the engine out in aty case and also replaced all rear subframe bushes with the GT2 solid billet type so it was easy to correct when we were in there. In the end once it was all bolted back up, aligned and corner balanced we measured he final offset variance at under 3mm which I was happy with. Looking at my notes we got the height to ground from mounting points pretty much smack on during the install but these ended up 1.7mm after corner weight balancing.
Unfortunately we never got the fender height to top of tyre below 5mm difference side to side although not an absolute true measure due to the 3mm offset. The shop I used showed me the differences on a few older 911s they had there for service and it appears the factory had some variance in production.
I have since found on my own and some other 993s that the rear hood is most likely crokked in a 3 dimensional sense. If you look under your rear hood hinges you will see factory spacers which can be removed and built up side to side. After 10 years of being annoyed that my rear hood wasnt as flush on one side as the other and that the panel gaps side to side were not exactly the same I started playing with these. I eventually got it looking "almost" perfect from both a visual gap size side to side and a flush fitting side to side. Probably only I would know the difference. However the fact remained that using the spacers was simply adjusting what was in the first instance an apature which was not symetric from the factory. This in turncould exlain the rear fender height differences due to curvature of panels and angles of fender lips etc.
Fact is we are driving cars 50% made by hand. They arent perfect but in a way thats a great part of the charm.
PS. Would love to know what heights you went to on PSS10 and what settings front and rear on the adjusters. How did you find the handling/comfort once set up correctly? A picture could help....
Cheers
M
Some playing around does help however I found once fully aligned and corner balanced things changed again.
I think you will find when you get the offsets right your guard to tyre height will vary again between sides as currently you will be measuring from a different sectional profile.
It is possible to move the subframe once you have dismantled the wheels, shocks, sway bars but it is better to have the transmission out so it can be done from the top mounting bolts. Its unusual yours should have shifted hoever as my understanding is the frame is pretty well secured.
Ive attached pictures of when mine was done in Feb 2010. I had to have the engine out in aty case and also replaced all rear subframe bushes with the GT2 solid billet type so it was easy to correct when we were in there. In the end once it was all bolted back up, aligned and corner balanced we measured he final offset variance at under 3mm which I was happy with. Looking at my notes we got the height to ground from mounting points pretty much smack on during the install but these ended up 1.7mm after corner weight balancing.
Unfortunately we never got the fender height to top of tyre below 5mm difference side to side although not an absolute true measure due to the 3mm offset. The shop I used showed me the differences on a few older 911s they had there for service and it appears the factory had some variance in production.
I have since found on my own and some other 993s that the rear hood is most likely crokked in a 3 dimensional sense. If you look under your rear hood hinges you will see factory spacers which can be removed and built up side to side. After 10 years of being annoyed that my rear hood wasnt as flush on one side as the other and that the panel gaps side to side were not exactly the same I started playing with these. I eventually got it looking "almost" perfect from both a visual gap size side to side and a flush fitting side to side. Probably only I would know the difference. However the fact remained that using the spacers was simply adjusting what was in the first instance an apature which was not symetric from the factory. This in turncould exlain the rear fender height differences due to curvature of panels and angles of fender lips etc.
Fact is we are driving cars 50% made by hand. They arent perfect but in a way thats a great part of the charm.
PS. Would love to know what heights you went to on PSS10 and what settings front and rear on the adjusters. How did you find the handling/comfort once set up correctly? A picture could help....
Cheers
M
01-25-2011, 12:51 PM
#161
01-25-2011, 06:43 PM
#162
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hi David. Id really love to help but I lost the contact years ago. However I will look back at my notes and see if there is something i can find to help. its a great mod. Makes it much easier when driving (fast!)....
Cheers
M
Cheers
M
03-05-2011, 06:58 PM
#165
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hi All....
Well plannng for phase four (and hopefully the final phase) of the project is underway and suppliers from all over the globe are busy ferreting away making some nice goodies for the "anniversary" 993.
I am hoping within 8 weeks time to have achieved the following - stay tuned for more pictures as it come to fruition....
DC21-114 Cams/custom built rockers/adjustable lifters/eibach high lift valve spring set/new gaskets set, re timing and new custom chip. Hopefully good for at least 300+ bhp and 265lbft+ .... Im hoping for a bit more based on my intake and exhaust configuration (Dach X catless with RSRs).
Other engine/engine bay enhancements including Patrick Motorsport light weight alloy dual belt pulley (lighter and MUCH nicer looking than the factory 3 belt unit currently bolted to the crank). Marcus is coming to the party with a few CF parts Ive been eyeing up for a while including fuse box cover in CF for a small weight saving....furthermore new factory Beru leads and plugs. Ive replaced ALL other electrical gear (MAF, Distis, belts, bearings, alternator bearings, wiring loom under recall 2003) on this car over the last 15 months so thought why not give it a birthday with these - not that Im led to believe there are any issues with the ones in the car....although the car will be 20 years old soon!
New Motorsport 40/65 LSD, 4 plate as fitted to the 993RS. This needs to be correctly shimmed up for lash etc. This should be durable enough to give me 40,000+ km reliable operation on fast/agressive street and long distance touring before needing rebuilding. With my mileage thats probably 10 years LOL! With LSD IM looking for improvements in braking stability and coming out of corners. I will be taking the car to the track when the project is complete so will hopefully enjoy some benefits there too...
Final changes will be likely suspension driven. Its looking like JICs yet to be launched 15 way coilover set up. I have a couple of other minor tweaks in mind and overall the car will be lowered about 1/2 inch from currrent. I have RS adjustable bars and drop links so Im hoping to dial out any understeer native to the LSD installation pretty quickly by firming up the rear bar onr notch and using firmer rear coilovers than the HDs I have. If this still doesnt do it I can loosen of the front sway bars one notch.
This round is power and performance/handling with a small amount of engine bay and overall cosmetic (lowering).
I will be running another Dyno and publishing the facts after everything is bolted up, run in and tweaked....
Stay tuned :-)
M
Well plannng for phase four (and hopefully the final phase) of the project is underway and suppliers from all over the globe are busy ferreting away making some nice goodies for the "anniversary" 993.
I am hoping within 8 weeks time to have achieved the following - stay tuned for more pictures as it come to fruition....
DC21-114 Cams/custom built rockers/adjustable lifters/eibach high lift valve spring set/new gaskets set, re timing and new custom chip. Hopefully good for at least 300+ bhp and 265lbft+ .... Im hoping for a bit more based on my intake and exhaust configuration (Dach X catless with RSRs).
Other engine/engine bay enhancements including Patrick Motorsport light weight alloy dual belt pulley (lighter and MUCH nicer looking than the factory 3 belt unit currently bolted to the crank). Marcus is coming to the party with a few CF parts Ive been eyeing up for a while including fuse box cover in CF for a small weight saving....furthermore new factory Beru leads and plugs. Ive replaced ALL other electrical gear (MAF, Distis, belts, bearings, alternator bearings, wiring loom under recall 2003) on this car over the last 15 months so thought why not give it a birthday with these - not that Im led to believe there are any issues with the ones in the car....although the car will be 20 years old soon!
New Motorsport 40/65 LSD, 4 plate as fitted to the 993RS. This needs to be correctly shimmed up for lash etc. This should be durable enough to give me 40,000+ km reliable operation on fast/agressive street and long distance touring before needing rebuilding. With my mileage thats probably 10 years LOL! With LSD IM looking for improvements in braking stability and coming out of corners. I will be taking the car to the track when the project is complete so will hopefully enjoy some benefits there too...
Final changes will be likely suspension driven. Its looking like JICs yet to be launched 15 way coilover set up. I have a couple of other minor tweaks in mind and overall the car will be lowered about 1/2 inch from currrent. I have RS adjustable bars and drop links so Im hoping to dial out any understeer native to the LSD installation pretty quickly by firming up the rear bar onr notch and using firmer rear coilovers than the HDs I have. If this still doesnt do it I can loosen of the front sway bars one notch.
This round is power and performance/handling with a small amount of engine bay and overall cosmetic (lowering).
I will be running another Dyno and publishing the facts after everything is bolted up, run in and tweaked....
Stay tuned :-)
M
Last edited by Macca; 03-06-2011 at 05:47 AM.