SAI check valve tool
#31
button queen
Hello, I have owned my 993 for two months and am doing the major service. Wow, what an introduction to this car! Everything so far is a PITA! Spark plugs, wires and now the crazy valve that was apparently installed by the hulk. Why on earth would this thing need to be torqued down this tight AND with no topside removal! Anyway, enough venting. I am having the exact same problem as above. The top cap is turning but I cannot get the base to budge. I am desperate at this point, hoping that someone near me would lend me an already modified tool. I live in Orange County, CA.
#32
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Use some antiseize on the pipe thread when reinstalling so it comes out easily next time.
I wonder if pouring a little Chevron Techron gas treatment down the hole before buttoning things up is a good idea to flush out carbon residue, or better yet just put some upstream of the valve and clean it out as well?
Yours & Others thoughts?
I wonder if pouring a little Chevron Techron gas treatment down the hole before buttoning things up is a good idea to flush out carbon residue, or better yet just put some upstream of the valve and clean it out as well?
Yours & Others thoughts?
#33
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Not too much gas treatment - it would be full strength and hitting the catalytic convertor - not sure if it will just burn it, or do damage.
#34
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Hello, I have owned my 993 for two months and am doing the major service. Wow, what an introduction to this car! Everything so far is a PITA! Spark plugs, wires and now the crazy valve that was apparently installed by the hulk. Why on earth would this thing need to be torqued down this tight AND with no topside removal! Anyway, enough venting. I am having the exact same problem as above. The top cap is turning but I cannot get the base to budge. I am desperate at this point, hoping that someone near me would lend me an already modified tool. I live in Orange County, CA.
- removal is by the nut on the bottom of the valve, and you need just to make up a easy tool (or borrow it as it was offered) - use a crowsfoot but it needs to be ground thinner to fit between the top of the manifold and the bottom of the valve.
- you will get only micro movements with the crowsfoot since there is not a lot of clearance, but it is enough to break the joint free. You can then either reposition the crowsfoot, or use the top of the valve to unscrew it
- make sure you have a good purchase on the valve, and a long enough handle on the ratchet (I use a 1/2 extendable one) so you can give the valve a good solid twist. If you wimp out with a 3/8 rachet that is digging into your hands, the torque is not well transmitted into the valve, and it will not snap free.
- use antiseize on the new valve
- to not tighten down the new valve very hard. Not sure what torque spec you are using, I put about 10 ft lts on it, but its all by feel. It needs to be enough to it does not leak, but makes it easy for the next replacement
- these cars are not hard to work on, especially once you are more experienced with them. Lots of people complain about #6 plug for instance, its not nearly as hard as even my V10 on my truck - the rear ones, now those were a challenge!
cheers,
Mike
#35
Drifting
I have the crowsfoot already modified and will lend it to you. Send me an email to plohmeyer@woh.rr.com.
Got the tool today and had immediate success! While I was waiting for the tool, I used a syringe to squirt some Liquid Wrench Super Penetrant on the threads/base of the valve two nights in a row and let that soak in. I used a long handle socket wrench with a 24" cheater bar over the handle. It popped lose with very little pressure (but I had a lot of leverage on it with that cheater bar). Not sure if I was just lucky, or the Liquid Wrench helped or the leverage was right, but it came loose.
This is a great group of people!
I do have a question for the group. There was a thin coating of carbon in the valve and inside the manifold that it attached to. Any idea how much carbon would be of concern (potential valve guide issues)? I have had no CEL issues or reason to believe there are problems, just wondering now that I had a chance to examine the internals for the first time.
#36
#37
button queen
Dan,
Got the tool today and had immediate success! While I was waiting for the tool, I used a syringe to squirt some Liquid Wrench Super Penetrant on the threads/base of the valve two nights in a row and let that soak in. I used a long handle socket wrench with a 24" cheater bar over the handle. It popped lose with very little pressure (but I had a lot of leverage on it with that cheater bar). Not sure if I was just lucky, or the Liquid Wrench helped or the leverage was right, but it came loose.
This is a great group of people!
I do have a question for the group. There was a thin coating of carbon in the valve and inside the manifold that it attached to. Any idea how much carbon would be of concern (potential valve guide issues)? I have had no CEL issues or reason to believe there are problems, just wondering now that I had a chance to examine the internals for the first time.
Got the tool today and had immediate success! While I was waiting for the tool, I used a syringe to squirt some Liquid Wrench Super Penetrant on the threads/base of the valve two nights in a row and let that soak in. I used a long handle socket wrench with a 24" cheater bar over the handle. It popped lose with very little pressure (but I had a lot of leverage on it with that cheater bar). Not sure if I was just lucky, or the Liquid Wrench helped or the leverage was right, but it came loose.
This is a great group of people!
I do have a question for the group. There was a thin coating of carbon in the valve and inside the manifold that it attached to. Any idea how much carbon would be of concern (potential valve guide issues)? I have had no CEL issues or reason to believe there are problems, just wondering now that I had a chance to examine the internals for the first time.
Now I have a question for you. With all this help, advice and fellowship, why don't you spring for a membership? Worth it's weight in gold.......in fact, do that and you don't have to reimburse me for the postage. Consider it "rental of the tool" in arrears.
#38
Drifting
Bill, glad it worked. Very much my pleasure to help anyone here I can. Got your email too.
Now I have a question for you. With all this help, advice and fellowship, why don't you spring for a membership? Worth it's weight in gold.......in fact, do that and you don't have to reimburse me for the postage. Consider it "rental of the tool" in arrears.
Now I have a question for you. With all this help, advice and fellowship, why don't you spring for a membership? Worth it's weight in gold.......in fact, do that and you don't have to reimburse me for the postage. Consider it "rental of the tool" in arrears.
#39
button queen
#40
Anyone with a 27mm or 1 1/6 crowsfoot tool; can you tell me the dimension to grind to, for clearance under the SAI valve? Its not stated in the thread...
TIA,
Paul
EDIT
My apologies for reviving an old thread...I found the answer with further searching. .275" or 7mm
2-The crowsfoot was way too thick so you have to grind it down. I think it measured about 10 mm thick so you need to remove 3 mm of material which will leave you with the proper thickness of 7 mm. It will fit perfectly and the place where you insert the adapter and extension bar into the crowsfoot lined up just right to clear the side of the valve body and that metal tube.
TIA,
Paul
EDIT
My apologies for reviving an old thread...I found the answer with further searching. .275" or 7mm
2-The crowsfoot was way too thick so you have to grind it down. I think it measured about 10 mm thick so you need to remove 3 mm of material which will leave you with the proper thickness of 7 mm. It will fit perfectly and the place where you insert the adapter and extension bar into the crowsfoot lined up just right to clear the side of the valve body and that metal tube.
#42
Rennlist Member
If you just grab the valve with some channel locks and pry it until it snaps off, then slip a 1-1/8" socket over it and spin it out. Piece of cake
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...sai-valve.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...sai-valve.html