C4S_fan

I've bought all the components I need to do my first oil change.

I've read nearly every single post on the subject in the archives and have a feeling that this will be a good 'bonding' experience with my car ... I'm actually looking forward to getting started.

I'm going to replace both filters. I don't care if both my local independent and dealer said the front only needs to be replaced every 30K?!?!

I have a few remaining questions:

1) Do people recommend lifting just the rear, or both ends of the car?
(reference: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ht=jack+stands)

2) If I can avoid it, I'd like to NOT remove the oil return line. However, some people indicate that this is where as much as 2 quarts of oil would be stored. I find that hard to believe....
(reference: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ght=oil+change, specifically https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...99&postcount=4)

Finally, does anyone have a specific, step-by-step set of instructions that they used to get as much oil out as possible? Something along the lines of

1) Drain the sump on the underside of the motor, change the engine filter (didn't want to risk taking the oil tube off so I changed the filter (short one) with it in place (very large channel lock plier did the trick)
2) Drain the oil tank in front of the right rear fender, change the filter (long one).
3) Put 6 quarts into oil fill tube
4) run engine enough to get oil pressure for a few seconds and turn off (gets some of the oil in the tank into the motor)
5) Fill very slowly 2 more quarts
6) Start motor and slowy add another 2 quarts
7) Drive car until fully warm (about 9oclock on the temp gage) and check level

TheOtherEric

Wow- you're not taking this task lightly! Just make sure you unscrew the right plug (common error). And be prepared for the deluge of oil from the oil tank. I can never do this without spilling oil everywhere.

30k seems like a high interval for the engine filter; I thought it was more like 20k. Anyway, it's a PITA and you'll probably wish you didn't change it when you're done. Don't worry about getting every drop of oil out; you have over 10 qts, so relax & have a homebrew. I think we concluded recently that you can let your car sit for a few hours while little drops come out, and you're only getting about 1/4 cup or something. Your procedure above is spot on.

jnnking

Dennis,

It's a great DIY and my first as well.
1. I just lift the rear, reasons to follow.
2. It's a bunch easier with the oil ine out of the way. I've never (in three oil changes) gotten much out. May a cup or so.

I'm not concerned about getting every drop I can out. I figure what ever is left gets so diluted when the new oil goes it. What difference does it really make. I've always gotten between 9 1/4 and 9 3/4 qts in. The last qt goes in really so. I go out for a run, warm it up and check the level. No troubles yet.

Edward

Hi Dennis,

Removing the oil-return line is easy ...no big deal at all. But if you can get to the small filter without removing it, go for it. I couldn't, though some have reported they can ...guess it depends on the type of filter wrench you have as that spot is tight.

I'd put the car on 4 stands. It's not that much more work and you're there already. Not only does this keep the car relatively level to get more oil out than just jacking the rear, but while it's draining (or cooling off), I like to survey everything under there. It's never a bad idea to keep tabs on how things are looking under the car ...suspension bushings, oil seep, anything that may look wrong. FWIW, I change oil and large filter every 5-6K miles (which is 2x/year), but change the small filter every other change (1x year/10-12K miles). I figure this is still considerably more frequent than Porsche's recommendations, but not too crazily "over-maintained."

One other recommendation is get yourself a new drain plug for the oil tank. Yes, an entire drain plug with o-ring. There are threads in the archives about this bolt's shoulder area shearing off (it actually happended to me too, and I don't over torque stuff). I found that NO one had one locally so you may have to order it Side note: my oil drain plug broke on the Friday evening before a track weekend!! No delaers had one in stock, and I was lucky enough to find a used one at a local Porsche independent shop. The point is to have it as a spare so you're not left cursing at a car that's dead on jackstands. Hope this helps

Edward

Ray Calvo

This is based on changing oil/filters every 6000 miles since I got the car with 5K miles on it (now has 87K)

1) Just jack up the right side.

2) Haven't bothered with the oil return line. Feel it's going overboard.

NO step-by-step instructions; sorry. If you can't live without them, you shouldn't be doing this job. Just get under there and attack the car. What I do is remove the rear wheel, then the rocker panel (gives me better access to the oil tank filter and drain plug). Unscrew the drain plug and let it drain till oil stops dripping. Then replace the aluminum crush washer and rubber O-ring in the drain plug and reinstall it. Then replace the oil tank filter. Then drain the engine, replace the crush washer, and reinstall the engine drain plug. Thn remove the right side rubber heater duct/hose that connects the heat exchanger to the in-car heater duct; have to do this to gain access to the engine filter. Relace the filter, reinstall the rubber duct, fenderwell liner, rocker panel, rear wheel, and 9 qts of oil. The go for a drive to heat the oil up, and then top it off.

C4S_fan

Ray: Those are the instructions I was looking for.. thanks

993inNC

For what it is worth. The car will hold.....12.4 US quarts technically. To do the proper job, to understand your true level of oil consumption and just because oil and filters are cheaper than engine parts!......
I: jack the car on all four corners with a bias to the front higher (drain the cooler lines), replace both filters each time, the oil return tube, crank case.......think that covers it. I put in 12 quarts each time (very slowly after 9 or 10) and I have DE'd the car with no overfill blowby.

My .02 cents is .......do it all each time and do it right. If you don't, your next post will likely be " I can't figure out how to check my oil level, do you guys use the dipstick or the gauge"

177mph

The "DYI" on P-car.com was helpful to me. I think Ray even contributed that. One note from me: Be ready to fight with those filters if the last guy put them on with a wrench. Both of mine were very difficult to remove....

Chuck W.

Great timing. I am doing mine on Saturday. I did it last time with my brother who has the mechanical talent. It's time consuming but not that hard.

DJF1

I do BOTH filters every 3K and on the race car after every race weekend. Cheap insurance I have been following many years. To add to the collective wisdom above, I will offer the following.
Let both plugs drain completely before you put the plugs back on.
Get the oil filter tool! very usefull for the small filter.
Rub a bit of your old oil on the filter seals.
When you unscrew the right side bottom skirting, no need to unscrew the wholeside. Its flexible enough to wedge a funnel and drain the oil from the plug to where you want it to go.
After the 8th bottle start the engine. Then you can place a towel over the spoiler wall if you dotn have time for a drive or you dont want to due to condition. This heats up the engine faster. Then I usually put in the last bottles very slowly and wait a bit between the bottles so the new oil warm up too. Yeah I do check the needle for reference and when its starts moving I know I'm almost finished. DONT overfill... The oil will expand when its hot. So at operating temp and the needle on the lower partof the instrument, check the stick. You may want to add a bit at that point according to the stick or not at all.
Finally the rumour that no 2 911's will take identical amount of oil is true! My cabrio takes less half a quart compared to the race car... both 95 engines! I asked my mechanic and he confirmed it as well...
Have fun!

Dudley

A sheet of aluminum foil helps in forming custom funnels to help catching the oil and minimize the cleanup.

chris walrod

Also cut-out a 6"x6" piece of cardboard which I use to deflect oil from draining onto the left side heat exchanger while draining the crankcase.

I put the car on four stands, relatively level. Once completed, I start the car and get it hot enough to open the thermostat, which can be easilt verified by removing the small plastic access panel located just behind the RF wheel, and feeling the oil lines for warmth. Also, since the car is level, you can set the oil level with the car running. I usually run my cars oil level at the bottom mark of the dipstick. FWIW..

Flying Finn

I do four stands, both filters (of course! Those local independent and Dealer of yours probably advices that you shouldn't change that PITA , No. 1 spark plug either) and without removing the oil return tube in every 3000 miles.

Then depending how much track time, I change the oil & the easy filter between those 3000 miles after every 3-4 track days.

TomF

I change both filters every 3k. I feel that it is cheap insurance. Once you get the technique down to R&R the engine filter, it becomes easy, and less messy. Take your time and have fun while doing your first DIY!

ibdavid

I won't even comment other then.....just do it, it's really not that hard. I'm able to change the engine filter without removing the return tube. It is a challenge not getting oil everywhere though......