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Any reason I can't bolt on SPASM sway bars?

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Old 01-04-2017, 09:39 PM
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Maxhouse97
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Default Any reason I can't bolt on SPASM sway bars?

I have a 3.4 with stock suspension and want to upgrade to SPASM sway bars. From the parts diagrams, the only difference in part numbers on the bars (sport and non-sport suspension) are the bars themselves and the bushings.

To me this is most likely a thicker bar that requires a bigger bushing. All the drop link are the same for SPASM and PASM.

Anyone done this or see an issue?
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Old 01-04-2017, 10:03 PM
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bittrl1000
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I wonder whether the geometries of the sway bars are different from each other, given the 10mm lower ride-height of SPASM. I'm not that knowledgeable, so just guessing.
Old 01-04-2017, 10:44 PM
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991carreradriver
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I can't see what difference a stiffer sway bar is going to do (with all the bushings) to do to harm the car. You will not have shorter springs, but that may not matter if not tracking. More importantly, the same and much better results can be obtained with lowering springs and a complete suspension rework. It depends on how you plan to drive your P-Car and your budget.
Old 01-04-2017, 11:14 PM
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Needsdecaf
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Originally Posted by 991carreradriver
I can't see what difference a stiffer sway bar is going to do (with all the bushings) to do to harm the car. You will not have shorter springs, but that may not matter if not tracking. More importantly, the same and much better results can be obtained with lowering springs and a complete suspension rework. It depends on how you plan to drive your P-Car and your budget.
The key being lowering springs AND a complete suspension rework.

On a previous vehicle with active suspension, I tried two setups: lowering springs only and stock springs with larger roll bars. The stiffer springs lowered the car, but were not matched well to the shocks. Yes, I got less roll. But body control suffered, as did ride.

The sway bars, on the other hand, transformed the car. Turn in was MUCH improved, and the rear end freed up remarkably (the front bar was more stiff than the rear in comparison to stock).

Given a limited budget for suspension mods, I'd start with bars all day long before springs. If you're going to fit lowering springs, shocks and bars should be changed to match...which gets expensive.

OP, im sure you will need the larger diameter (ID, not OD) bushings to fit the larger bar, but that shouldn't affect endlinks.
Old 01-05-2017, 02:57 AM
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bright_medal
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I'm interested. Following the thread
Old 01-05-2017, 11:15 PM
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Maxhouse97
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Yes sorry I didn't mention I already have KW's HAS kit with the resultant stiffer springs, but kept the stock base suspension shocks. I was worried about the shocks dampening not matching up to the springs, but it works beautifully for the street (street only now for the 991, my 87 is my DE car).

I had intended to get stiffer sways to match the springs, hence the question. I seem to remember asking the Suncoast guys a while back if I could plug and play SPASM bars and they said no, but I don't remember why. They probably didn't know what they were talking about. Tarett thinks I could.

The other option is the Tarett kit, with 30 mm GT3 front bar and custom drop links plus custom 25mm bar in the rear with drop links, but that's more $$ obviously. The SPASM bars are only about $250 each, and if I can plug and play I'm home free.

Not looking to spend more than a grand, and with my street only situation I think SPASM would be a nice choice. As long as they fit.

Yes I should have said ID. Just want to be able to use my existing drop links.
Old 01-06-2017, 10:58 AM
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jimbo1111
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You may not need stiffer bars if you have increased the spring rate on the KW springs. Stiffer bars have the same affect as increased spring rates generally. The only difference is that bars don't affect the ride as much as springs. Usually bars are changed before the spring rates are altered to retain compliance and a better ride. The good news is that if you now decide to do the bars it wont affect the ride quality.

I don't see a problem with upgrading to spasm but since you lowered the car you will also have to get the new droplinks as well to maintain proper geometry with the lower ride height.
Old 01-06-2017, 01:03 PM
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Larry Cable
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Originally Posted by jimbo1111
You may not need stiffer bars if you have increased the spring rate on the KW springs. Stiffer bars have the same affect as increased spring rates generally. The only difference is that bars don't affect the ride as much as springs. Usually bars are changed before the spring rates are altered to retain compliance and a better ride. The good news is that if you now decide to do the bars it wont affect the ride quality.

I don't see a problem with upgrading to spasm but since you lowered the car you will also have to get the new droplinks as well to maintain proper geometry with the lower ride height.
+1 I might be tempted to go with tarrett (or other) adjustable drop links and the PASM-S bars giving more adjustment (than OEM - which are not adjustable)
to deal with height changes and pre-load
Old 01-06-2017, 02:08 PM
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DMOZ
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Maxhouse, I would be interested in hearing about the results if you bite the bullet on the Spasm bars
Old 01-06-2017, 02:15 PM
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Larry Cable
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Originally Posted by Larry Cable
+1 I might be tempted to go with tarrett (or other) adjustable drop links and the PASM-S bars giving more adjustment (than OEM - which are not adjustable)
to deal with height changes and pre-load
Update, if you are going to do this, you might think about going with a set of aftermarket 5/3 way adjustable bars instead of the OEM ... this allows you a
degree of adjustability (not available with the OEM) to alter the (relative)
stiffness of both the front and rear ... OTOH if you are looking to save money
the OEM bars are probably the way to go (if you are concerned with roll and
turn-in etc).

p.s do TPC-Raing still have their 15% discount on their swaybars in effect?
Old 01-06-2017, 07:28 PM
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jimbo1111
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Originally Posted by Larry Cable
+1 I might be tempted to go with tarrett (or other) adjustable drop links and the PASM-S bars giving more adjustment (than OEM - which are not adjustable)
to deal with height changes and pre-load
Agreed!
Old 01-07-2017, 08:40 AM
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Maxhouse97
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Great comments guys, keep them coming.

- The main question is whether I will need new drop links with the SPASM bars. I don't think the ride height will be a contributing factor as I am at SPASM height now with stock bars and drop links. That plus the fact that the parts list does not list separate part #s for SPASM drop links makes me think they are the same for both bars. Maybe the SPASM bar is adjusted to maintain proper alignment with the same drop links?

- I know I may not "need" stiffer bars, but I guess I can't resist! My ultimate goal is to replicate the SPASM suspension.

- 100% agree that adjustable aftermarket bars and drop links would be more effective. But as I mentioned, this car is street only for now, and I did just drop some $$$ for an exhaust so I would like to budget here. Add on top of that a $500 voucher that I have from Porsche that would just about cover the OE SPASM bars, and you can see where I am looking for the OE solution.

- If my car came with SPASM from the factory I probably wouldn't have touched the suspension, but I bought CPO and couldn't find the right car with that option. But I figure if this upgrade is doable (still hard to believe someone hasn't tried this ... I'm used to Pelican where everything has already been tried by someone else!) I can sell the bars at a later time and upgrade to aftermarket when I want more track performance.
Old 01-07-2017, 08:43 AM
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Maxhouse97
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What is the typical return policy for Porsche parts?
Old 02-26-2017, 11:16 AM
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Maxhouse97
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Have the bars, will try install next weekend. Any tricks to this or is it just bolt on with the suspension leveled? Any torque specs available for the bolts?
Old 02-26-2017, 03:14 PM
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Maxhouse97
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BTW they measure 28mm front, 25mm rear.


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