Serpentine Belt Change
#1
Serpentine Belt Change
Hi all,
My 2014 991.1 C2 cab 3.4 is due for its 40K service (which I'm doing) and think, as long as I'm into replacing the 2 engine air filters, I may as well change out the serp belt as well since a replacement is only 20 bucks or so. What do I need to remove or adjust to get to the belt, after I remove the air box? (I'm aware of how to turn the tensioner to release/install the belt). As an aside, it took me about 3.5 hours to replace all the plugs (cost about $50 parts-wise) and the engine revs noticeably smoother now, by far. Thanks to all for your help...
My 2014 991.1 C2 cab 3.4 is due for its 40K service (which I'm doing) and think, as long as I'm into replacing the 2 engine air filters, I may as well change out the serp belt as well since a replacement is only 20 bucks or so. What do I need to remove or adjust to get to the belt, after I remove the air box? (I'm aware of how to turn the tensioner to release/install the belt). As an aside, it took me about 3.5 hours to replace all the plugs (cost about $50 parts-wise) and the engine revs noticeably smoother now, by far. Thanks to all for your help...
#2
Burning Brakes
Since Porsche recommends checking drive belts at 40, 100, and 160 K miles sounds like smart thing to do.... But the official schedule is replacement of the drive belt only after 60 K. Of course, that is guidance, not specific to your vehicle.
As for how to replace, I'll have to see what I can find. Haven't done it myself.... Stay tuned....
As for how to replace, I'll have to see what I can find. Haven't done it myself.... Stay tuned....
#3
Hi all,
My 2014 991.1 C2 cab 3.4 is due for its 40K service (which I'm doing) and think, as long as I'm into replacing the 2 engine air filters, I may as well change out the serp belt as well since a replacement is only 20 bucks or so. What do I need to remove or adjust to get to the belt, after I remove the air box? (I'm aware of how to turn the tensioner to release/install the belt). As an aside, it took me about 3.5 hours to replace all the plugs (cost about $50 parts-wise) and the engine revs noticeably smoother now, by far. Thanks to all for your help...
My 2014 991.1 C2 cab 3.4 is due for its 40K service (which I'm doing) and think, as long as I'm into replacing the 2 engine air filters, I may as well change out the serp belt as well since a replacement is only 20 bucks or so. What do I need to remove or adjust to get to the belt, after I remove the air box? (I'm aware of how to turn the tensioner to release/install the belt). As an aside, it took me about 3.5 hours to replace all the plugs (cost about $50 parts-wise) and the engine revs noticeably smoother now, by far. Thanks to all for your help...
#4
Serpentine Belt Change
As to the plug change, there's no pics but here's my comments: (1) No need to remove any exhaust parts - I just removed the rear wheels for better access (2) used "locking" 3/8" extensions to assure plug socket wrench was always extracted from tube(s) (3) use of a swivel head plug wrench was needed to reach at least 2 of the plugs. The most tedious part of the job was releasing the connectors from the coil packs...patience and perseverance paid off! FWIW, local dealer quoted $800 to do the job...
#5
Burning Brakes
As to the plug change, there's no pics but here's my comments: (1) No need to remove any exhaust parts - I just removed the rear wheels for better access (2) used "locking" 3/8" extensions to assure plug socket wrench was always extracted from tube(s) (3) use of a swivel head plug wrench was needed to reach at least 2 of the plugs. The most tedious part of the job was releasing the connectors from the coil packs...patience and perseverance paid off! FWIW, local dealer quoted $800 to do the job...
You only really need to remove the ignition coils.... no exhaust or even rear wheel removal needed. Having a lift is best, ramps or jacking the car a must.
Proper torque settings for the plugs (initial/secondary) = 24/19 ft/lbs.
FWIW, here is a spark-plug change video on a GT3 by Matt Moreman..... (fast-forward to the parts you are interested in... unnecessarily long video for a simple procedure, IMHO....)
#6
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I like this proactive idea, Boxsterguy. I will consider this in Spring 2017 when I have the 40K done. Thanks.
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#9
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If removing and replacing the SAME plug, the torque setting is a lower 19 ft.lbs. because the crush washer is already compressed.
I think??
#10
Rennlist Member
Great video...thanks!
#11
Did anyone come up with a DIY for replacing the drive belt? It may be fairly obvious, but I haven't had the rear bumper cover off for a while and don't remember looking at the belt.
#12
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Let's see what Plenum says, but I think this means a new fresh plug gets torqued to 24ft.lbs. This sets the crush washer on the plug.
If removing and replacing the SAME plug, the torque setting is a lower 19 ft.lbs. because the crush washer is already compressed.
I think??
If removing and replacing the SAME plug, the torque setting is a lower 19 ft.lbs. because the crush washer is already compressed.
I think??
#13
Rennlist Member
Hello,
replacing belt is quite easy, it's DIY work :-)
at first, you need to remove rear bumper, lights, wing and airbox
then replacing belt is similar like on cayman/boxter.., you can find video here :
key moment start's at 4:40 minute..
i hope this helps!
replacing belt is quite easy, it's DIY work :-)
at first, you need to remove rear bumper, lights, wing and airbox
then replacing belt is similar like on cayman/boxter.., you can find video here :
key moment start's at 4:40 minute..
i hope this helps!
Last edited by Jacobello87; 05-21-2017 at 07:02 AM.
#14
Rennlist Member
Just remember if you have PDCC..... it's due for a bottle replacement at 60K the same time as the belt.
Bottle replacement (if you actually do it) is a PITA. I had the dealer do my belt at that time.
Labor was a wash since the belt has to come off anyway.
Bottle replacement (if you actually do it) is a PITA. I had the dealer do my belt at that time.
Labor was a wash since the belt has to come off anyway.
#15
I'm stil a little fuzzy on this. So do you back off the spark plug once torqued to 24 and then retorque to 19; or, once torqued to 24, simply go back and torque again at the lower setting of 19? Thanks.