Jabs1542

I went to Gyrodisks, installing them on Monday. I was chewing through OEMs too quickly. Pads are Pagid Yellow (RS29).

Gyrodisks only fits the front rotors (991.1 C2S), I am putting slotted rotors on the rear. The rear is easy because it is the same as the 996 front rotor - lots of options.

GT3_Driver

HIGHLY recommend PFC-11 pads for "TRACK"

Where do you get them for the 991?

008

I got them from Apex performance. I bought the first set PFC produced and found they did not fit well. It turns out, after many emails and calls, they screwed up and never used the S backing plate for a template. So basically you use the GT3 pads and the overhang the outside rotor edge. I chamfered them so I didn't have to deal with it. I think I've been through 3 or 4 sets. Wish they would just step up and produce them properly. Really I'd like them to produce the 01 compound again which I still think is superior to the 11 and 08. Truth is very few track the S and most are happy with the old yellow compound from Pagid.

cajerseyboy

I thought I would share my experience on the track with stock P Zeros on GTS (Turbo 20" wheels) vs Cup 2's on aftermarket Forgeline 20" wheels and DCS suspension module installed.

My impressions comes from 2 Autocross events and 1 track session at Laguna Seca (stock setup) and 2 track days at Sonoma with the C2 Forgeline DCS setup. No expert here but wanted to share.

Pzeros wore out very quickly as others have commented. When compared to CUP2's there is a wide gap in track performance. Cup2's win hands down.

They were noticeably more planted on the track. Much firmer ride on the street so there is a trade off. I have MPSS on my stock wheels for road driving as they are smoother and more durable than the C2's but they have not been on my car since I got the C2's.

The C2's can throw off some rubber on the track if they are not inflated correctly. At the Werks reunion a Michelin rep told me to keep them between 32-38psi which I did for my recent session at Sonoma. It fixed the rubber issue I had with lower PSIs that were recommended on Rennlist and they performed very well. Sticking with them. And shooting for 33 front 37 rear hot.

DCS vs Stock PASM. With stock there was little difference in roll from regular suspension to PASM activated. I wasn't very impressed with the stock suspension during the Autocross's tight turns. Lots of roll. This prompted the DCS purchase and I have been pleased with the product.

Forgeline wheels were put on with the Cup2's so it's hard to say if the following benefits came from the tire or wheel. I noticed better cornering, acceleration and stopping power on the lighter wheel. Here is a good summary on tire rack that talks about road vs track driving on lighter wheels.

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/...jsp?techid=108

As mentioned I have been very pleased with the DCS suspension as well and would recommend it for the track. Much less roll yet road driving is still very acceptable and not overly stiff....even with the Cup2s.

Next step for me is to upgrade my stock break pads with one of the suggestions here and to switch brake fluid to SRF. I'm getting more aggressive on the track with braking and they became pretty soft on the last few runs at Sonoma. Pads need to be changed anyway so having everything done at once.

These are the last changes I'm going to make. If after next year I'm itching to get on the track more I may consider a dedicated track car.

Overall the value rank of the changes I have made were:

1) Best - cup2 tires (got mine on eBay and they have worked great at a fraction of the cost.)
2) DCS - worked with TPC racing who were great in customizing the settings.
3) wheel upgrade - got my forgeline's second hand.

Good luck wit your changes and keep us posted.

John@Fabspeed

No experience with brakeperofrmance.com but i'm running Sebro Slotted on my Cayman R and for $150 a rotor I am very well pleased with their performance paired with Ferodo DS1.11 pads. Might check in and see if they are available on the 991

Shawn C

What is the most aggressive tire you can get that is still streetable? I'm only an hour and a half away from Sebring, And I dont want to get into the whole trailer, Towing, Slicks thing again, been there done that for a long time. I want to just drive to and from the track on a set of track wheels and tires. Motul flush and pads.

BradB

That's a very short distance to the track. I'd get Michelin Pilot Sport Cups if I had your "commute" but you do have to be cautious of rain.

Shawn C

Ill check them out. Thanks

John@Fabspeed

Most aggressive tire that is street legal...Pirelli Trofeo R in my opinion. Just don't get caught in the rain haha

bright_medal

Hey All,

I'm doing my first Autocross in my C2S tomorrow. I'd previously done several events in my 2004 M3, but never in my p-car.

The car is completely stock (for the time being), and I wanted to see if you had any suggestions on tire pressure during the event? I'm on the Carrera S 20s with the factory Pzero tires. I'm running the car on comfort tire pressures, but I'm wondering if I need to change it up for the AX? Thanks.

991carreradriver

Brakeperformance advertises slotted 991 front rotors that they don't have and cannot deliver as of September 10, 2016. The whole thing was a bait and switch. After they called me to tell me they could not deliver the front slots as they were not approved, they tried to sell me cross drilled with a lifetime warranty as kicker. I have done extensive research and can say unequivocally the only slotted front rotor is the Girodisc for the 3.4L. Giro indicated that they should have the rears approved and at market in about 10 weeks.

Jabs1542

C2S here, while I don't AX I do track quite a bit. I usually start out 33 front and rear and see where that takes me once the tires heat up. I'm running MPSS and they like to be in the 35-38 psi range. I tracked last week (temp in the mid 80s) and what was 38 psi hot ended up being 29 psi cold (next morning in the garage).

As for brakes, Gyrodisk was the only slotted option for the fronts, the rears ended up with Sebro (slotted as well). I went through a pair of $500 OEM drilled rotors in a three day track event, that's when I decided I was done with drilled rotors (that was my third set). The current slotted rotors have 4 track days on them and look fine. For reference I'm running Pagid RS-29 pads (the yellow pads).

BradB

Lifetime? I'd like to read the fine print on that warranty!

John@Fabspeed

Start out with 33 front and rear cold. Chalk all four tires and watch for how far the tire scrubs off the chalk. It they scrub past the edge of the tread, add a pound or two. If they don't scrub to the edge of the tread, drop a pound or two. Use that as your base. You'll have to be checking tire pressures throughout the day to ensure you stay within your ideal pressures. At this point get as much seat time as you can.

When your driving can't be improved much more start experimenting. This may vary per car and tire setup, but if you feel you have too much understeer, drop the front pressures a pound or two and/or raise the rear pressures a pound or two. This will provide more front grip and induce more oversteer, which may also be beneficial for vehicle rotation on tighter courses. If you feel you have too much oversteer, drop the rear pressures a pound or two and/or raise the front pressures a pound or two. This will provide more rear grip and induce more understeer, which may also be beneficial for stability on more open, higher speed courses

Get more experienced people in the passenger seat with you, strive for excellent course knowledge, and Look Ahead. Most importantly...have fun!

991carreradriver

Probably voided once taken out of the box!