Annual Service
10-06-2015, 04:57 PM
#16
Racer
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The cab top adjustment and checks. All they would provide is the list from Porsche on what needs to be done. My wife Panamera Turbo was $950. Not sure how they will adjust that cabriolet top😀
10-06-2015, 05:45 PM
#17
Race Car
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You can remove & replace 4 wheels, flush the brakes, clean-up and put away in 30 minutes??
I have to agree, that's a bit optimistic. When I was doing track events almost every weekend in my BMW M3 E36, I could swap out all four wheels, rotors and pads in 56 minutes (I kept a dedicated set of track pads and rotors in addition to sticky tires on their own wheels). But that's when I had a Snap-On mid-rise lift in the garage and my air powered tools ready to go. That was on the lift to off the lift and when you do it twice a week nearly every week it can go really fast (plus BMW rotors are super-fast to change).
Now days the lift is gone and it takes me about an hour and 15 minutes to flush brakes, including wandering over to the refrig in the garage and getting a beer and some Doritos. I have a pretty fast set up, using an air pressure cap that goes over the reservoir, then putting 20 to 25 psi behind it - then opening the bleed valves one by one and refilling the reservoir probably 4x. Its super easy to do, one of those no-brainer jobs. The most work is jacking up the car and pulling the wheels. I'd laugh at a $ 250 charge to flush brakes....
I have to agree, that's a bit optimistic. When I was doing track events almost every weekend in my BMW M3 E36, I could swap out all four wheels, rotors and pads in 56 minutes (I kept a dedicated set of track pads and rotors in addition to sticky tires on their own wheels). But that's when I had a Snap-On mid-rise lift in the garage and my air powered tools ready to go. That was on the lift to off the lift and when you do it twice a week nearly every week it can go really fast (plus BMW rotors are super-fast to change).
Now days the lift is gone and it takes me about an hour and 15 minutes to flush brakes, including wandering over to the refrig in the garage and getting a beer and some Doritos. I have a pretty fast set up, using an air pressure cap that goes over the reservoir, then putting 20 to 25 psi behind it - then opening the bleed valves one by one and refilling the reservoir probably 4x. Its super easy to do, one of those no-brainer jobs. The most work is jacking up the car and pulling the wheels. I'd laugh at a $ 250 charge to flush brakes....
10-06-2015, 07:10 PM
#18
Nordschleife Master
Brake fluid loses it potency over time as it attracts moisture. This is expressed as a function of temperature performance. As an example, lets say a particular brake fluid is rated to 500 degrees use when fresh out of the can. In two years, that brake fluid may not only tolerate 400 degrees due to the moisture. What does that mean to you as a driver? If you are at a track day, or very aggressive canyon racing and your brake temps exceed the temperature the fluid can work at, the fluid boils and your brakes go out...done...toast....no pedal. Its a bad place to be. So track rats change frequently. Have an old pickup truck that only makes runs to Home Depot then you probably are not going to put a lot of heat in the brakes, see how it works?
first thing you'd notice would be degradation of brake performance, with softer brake pedal and possibly more force required to activate your ABS.
Sorry my friend, that's not how it works. Brake fluid either works - or it doesn't. Now if you leave it in there FOREVER it will eventually collect so much moisture that your internal brake parts will rust, primarily the caliper pucks. So, change it on a schedule or you can even use these this little device which is quite handy. And its only $ 20.
Amazon.com: Mountain (MTN5140) LED Brake Fluid Tester: Sports & Outdoors
first thing you'd notice would be degradation of brake performance, with softer brake pedal and possibly more force required to activate your ABS.
Sorry my friend, that's not how it works. Brake fluid either works - or it doesn't. Now if you leave it in there FOREVER it will eventually collect so much moisture that your internal brake parts will rust, primarily the caliper pucks. So, change it on a schedule or you can even use these this little device which is quite handy. And its only $ 20.
Amazon.com: Mountain (MTN5140) LED Brake Fluid Tester: Sports & Outdoors
10-07-2015, 11:56 AM
#21
Just to clarify, Porsche is recommending that everything (other than additional maintenance) be performed on the checklist at 10k miles/1 yr - this includes oil and filter, cabin filters, engine air filter, etc.?
Also, for warranty purposes, do you need to do the full annual service (some of the items are unnecessary - check headlights, seat belts, etc.) or can you just replace the items that require replacement? Lastly, if you have a great Porsche Indy shop do the work, is this sufficient to maintain the warranty, or does Porsche require that all of the service work be done at a dealer?
Thanks
Also, for warranty purposes, do you need to do the full annual service (some of the items are unnecessary - check headlights, seat belts, etc.) or can you just replace the items that require replacement? Lastly, if you have a great Porsche Indy shop do the work, is this sufficient to maintain the warranty, or does Porsche require that all of the service work be done at a dealer?
Thanks
10-07-2015, 12:06 PM
#22
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Just to clarify, Porsche is recommending that everything (other than additional maintenance) be performed on the checklist at 10k miles/1 yr - this includes oil and filter, cabin filters, engine air filter, etc.?
Also, for warranty purposes, do you need to do the full annual service (some of the items are unnecessary - check headlights, seat belts, etc.) or can you just replace the items that require replacement? Lastly, if you have a great Porsche Indy shop do the work, is this sufficient to maintain the warranty, or does Porsche require that all of the service work be done at a dealer?
Thanks
Also, for warranty purposes, do you need to do the full annual service (some of the items are unnecessary - check headlights, seat belts, etc.) or can you just replace the items that require replacement? Lastly, if you have a great Porsche Indy shop do the work, is this sufficient to maintain the warranty, or does Porsche require that all of the service work be done at a dealer?
Thanks
Engine filters are not a 10K service. They are 40. Done when the plugs are done, and the rear bumper is off.
You do not need to go to the dealership to preserve warranty. Only have the proper work done, and have documentation (receipts and mileage).
Let's say you elect not to have your headlights checked. And the next day your motor grenades. Your warranty will still cover the engine. But, then the next week your headlights stop working. If Porsche can prove you did not properly maintain the headlights (since you opted not to have them serviced) you might be screwed.
10-07-2015, 12:06 PM
#23
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10-07-2015, 11:42 PM
#24
Racer
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Dealers like to pad the bill. Make sure they stick to the Porsche service manual, which is padded enough anyway. Fluids are the most important and I'd follow the service manual recs or better them, especially for oil.
10-08-2015, 12:03 AM
#25
Find a good SA and subtly let him know that you know the game.