De-ionizing filter
12-19-2014, 09:48 PM
#17
This may be a better link for the Costco product...
http://www.costco.com/CatalogSearch?...rd=cr+spotless
I bought this one and found it much better than the one showed in the OP's video. To Judge whether a de-ionizer will help with spots left by hard water, get one of these....
In fact, if you buy the CR Spotless unit, get the water tester as well b/c in my experience, the fist thing to go on the de-ionizer is the hardness meter, and you need that to tell when it's time to replace the resin.
Spyder
http://www.costco.com/CatalogSearch?...rd=cr+spotless
I bought this one and found it much better than the one showed in the OP's video. To Judge whether a de-ionizer will help with spots left by hard water, get one of these....
In fact, if you buy the CR Spotless unit, get the water tester as well b/c in my experience, the fist thing to go on the de-ionizer is the hardness meter, and you need that to tell when it's time to replace the resin.
Spyder
12-22-2014, 01:17 PM
#18
Drifting
Note typically most experienced users try to minimize the water usage as you burn out your resin very quickly if you aren't careful (generally the canisters are rated for 100 to 200 gals of usage). So often you only do your final rinse with the DI water and some use low settings on a pressure washer to minimize.
There are lots of videos out there. Surely someone, once, got it right?
(No, I'm not going to go look for it either
) Gosh, what was the OP's OQ? oh, yeah...
Yes.
12-22-2014, 07:15 PM
#19
The problem with this falls into the same category as other stuff I've mentioned, the emphasis on equipment and steps vs skills. Like this water thing. Yes for certain spotting is real, can even be nightmarishly real, and can be eliminated with filtration. Like I discovered in California. But soon as I realized this, simple change in technique, no more spotting. Even with truly awful water I was able to eliminate any more spotting simply by paying attention and modifying my technique.
Thinking of getting the new GoPro4 so maybe will be able to show you what I mean. Until then: directions are clearly posted!
12-22-2014, 11:08 PM
#20
Nordschleife Master
I agree with chuck911 that technique is key. However, water quality is important and becomes a hindrance when TDS (total dissolved solids) creeps up in the high 200s PPM.
Water softeners are not the solution, IMHO, as they do NOT reduce water TDS at all. They perform an ionic exchange where the emerging dissolved solids have a different chemical makeup with sodium (Na) in the mix, which is slicker, i.e., sticks less to smooth surfaces, thus with good technique they help, but those solids are still there and still create spots, although less of them. Note also that when using Na-softened water one is actually washing a car with metal-corroding salty water; small amounts but salt is there.
However, for really high TDS water a good deionizer is a big plus. As chuck911 said there are many ways to use them, I use mine feeding a standard low-pressure 1500PSI electric pressure washer. And I use de-ionized water throughout - initial rinse and final rinse - and use very little water (a fraction of the water used by an open hose). I check the output of my deionizer periodically, and its TDS output is 0 (or very low) after dozens of washes using this approach.
Water softeners are not the solution, IMHO, as they do NOT reduce water TDS at all. They perform an ionic exchange where the emerging dissolved solids have a different chemical makeup with sodium (Na) in the mix, which is slicker, i.e., sticks less to smooth surfaces, thus with good technique they help, but those solids are still there and still create spots, although less of them. Note also that when using Na-softened water one is actually washing a car with metal-corroding salty water; small amounts but salt is there.
However, for really high TDS water a good deionizer is a big plus. As chuck911 said there are many ways to use them, I use mine feeding a standard low-pressure 1500PSI electric pressure washer. And I use de-ionized water throughout - initial rinse and final rinse - and use very little water (a fraction of the water used by an open hose). I check the output of my deionizer periodically, and its TDS output is 0 (or very low) after dozens of washes using this approach.
12-23-2014, 12:05 PM
#21
Yes there are lots of videos. Well, several any way. I was kind of surprised that none of them were any good. Every single one there was splashing all over the place leaving tons of water on the car. Knowing what it should look like I kept looking.... looking.... but unless someone's uploaded in the last few months there's nothing.
The problem with this falls into the same category as other stuff I've mentioned, the emphasis on equipment and steps vs skills. Like this water thing. Yes for certain spotting is real, can even be nightmarishly real, and can be eliminated with filtration. Like I discovered in California. But soon as I realized this, simple change in technique, no more spotting. Even with truly awful water I was able to eliminate any more spotting simply by paying attention and modifying my technique.
Thinking of getting the new GoPro4 so maybe will be able to show you what I mean. Until then: directions are clearly posted!
The problem with this falls into the same category as other stuff I've mentioned, the emphasis on equipment and steps vs skills. Like this water thing. Yes for certain spotting is real, can even be nightmarishly real, and can be eliminated with filtration. Like I discovered in California. But soon as I realized this, simple change in technique, no more spotting. Even with truly awful water I was able to eliminate any more spotting simply by paying attention and modifying my technique.
Thinking of getting the new GoPro4 so maybe will be able to show you what I mean. Until then: directions are clearly posted!