JUPJAI

As many of you seem to have multiple vehicles, I too am soon to be out of garage space. Any advice on purchasing a good, safe, reliable and easy to use car lift for a new garage build?

I am able to decide the new garage height still, so now is the time to decide.

Thank you in advance for those who reply!

Cheers,

jupjai

LexVan

There are some great threads on this topic over on the 993 and 997 forums. Try searching over there.

Don't forget keys like your pad thickness and electrical service.

MarkoPolo

LexVan-Helmet’s comment re: pad thickness/electrical is great & if you’re still in pre-foundation stage I’d add that in-floor drains can be invaluable. If you do any of your own work I’d suggest 1 of the many dual lift/storage systems to get more bang for the buck.

Cheers; Marko

clangpap

I ordered a LiftKing "Pro King 8" from Calgary for our Victoria garage. It is a 4-post lift - I wouldn't recommend a 2-post for storage. They come packed flat and while you can pay to get them installed, they are easy to assemble. You definitely need four people to carry the runways. If you already have a garage floor, I wouldn't worry too much about the thickness of the slab, a 991 and a 1700 lb lift put about as much strain on the concrete as a Suburban (4 wheels versus 4 posts). The supplier does not recommend a thicker floor than "standard" and the lifts actually come with a dolly arrangement that allows you to push it around (even with a car on it).

You definitely want to build a flat interior roof - I think mine is about 13 feet. Some things to consider are drywalling and painting the interior a light colour so the large space is naturally brighter. You want to run your lighting along the two side walls and front wall about 8 feet up, so the work area is lit, because the ceiling is so high. Specify high angle door rails and jackshaft door openers - I use Liftmaster 8500s. I also have a couple of high plugs so it's easy to attach battery maintainers to the top car. I wired 220v for two lifts (plan for expansion) although you can get 110v motors. I wanted 220v in the garage, others may not care. 220v is a little faster to lift, but not materially.

With my lift at its max height the underside of the runways are 71 inches off the floor, so you cannot park a SUV with a rack underneath, although it can go on top. By my calculations, a Cayenne without the roof rack would drive under - I don't know how tall a Q7 is.

If you want some photos I can take some this weekend. Hope this helps.

991999R

since we're spending your money (and gladly should i say...) stay away from the trench drains. they're problematic and smell...stick to the area drains and know that you're going to have to have oil separators down the line.

991999R

point load from the lift depends on many factors including location of posts and the size and thickness of the baseplates...its always a good idea to hang the liability on someone else's expertise if you're going through all of this expense already

clangpap

I don't disagree. I had to get the trusses engineered as they were non standard. The floor of the garage was originally done in interlocking pavers (previous owner) so I was pouring a floor. Since the engineer knew the reason for the roof removal was to incorporate lifts, he also specified wide deep channels for the cars and lifts and significant steel throughout the slab. Belt and suspenders? Probably, but since I was pouring a slab anyway it was a few hundred extra dollars. I specifically said to the OP don't worry if you already have a slab - I wouldn't jack-hammer it out for potentially negligible benefit. Most lifts are put in existing garages and are engineered for that use. As an aside since the OP is in Vancouver, if he is pouring a slab I'd add a moisture barrier below the gravel to help protect the concrete and steel. It is specified where we live (a couple of hundred yards from the ocean) since the water table is about a foot below the basement.

JUPJAI

Thank you for your advice all - I will discuss with my contractor

Hope it works, darn city hall is limiting my garage height

I way need to go "under" ground

Anyone done this?

MarkoPolo

inadvertent edit

MarkoPolo

I appreciate your concern regarding drains. We live barely above sea level & all waste water goes through lift station, separators, & venting system - part of everyday life. Still think its valuable option but each to their own, obviously. Cheers

clangpap

We remained within the 15 foot height limitation, I suspect Vancouver is the same. Obviously a significant part of the roof is flat, but the roofline from the ground remains attractive (according to neighbours) and doesn't detract from the looks of the 90 YO house.

If we went underground, we'd be parking boats.

LexVan

Nice set-up here. Might want to reach-out to the OP:

https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3/...-metallic.html

991999R

i'm 100% in favour of them! i was just commenting on the specific type of floor drain. also, your local legislation will dictate as to whether or not you need additional oil separation at your residence since the intent is to not have oil pollute the mains. of course that assumes that people without drains aren't dumping oil into the lines...it all works well on paper though

991999R

look at changing the type of your garage roof joists to put their size on a diet. could save you a foot (maybe more)

JUPJAI

Thanks so much

Pictures would be awesome - planning 991above, M5 below