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Brake in a straight line.....

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Old 05-14-2014, 01:17 PM
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Yep new bolts each removal! ;-)
Old 05-14-2014, 01:26 PM
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Hi Craig, can you explain why the caliper bolts need to be replaced every time you remove the caliper? They only run about $40, but that does work out to $5 a bolt. It is not really the cost I object to, I just can't understand how such a substantial piece of metal can be be compromised so easily.
Old 05-14-2014, 01:44 PM
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The rash of calipers falling off the rear of a 997 GT3 a few years back...that, and dirty threads and improper torque. They do stretch a bit. Be safe!
Old 05-14-2014, 01:46 PM
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Thanks Craig, and yeah, having the calipers fall off would be a problem. Can you confirm that the proper torque is 63 ft/lbs?

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Old 05-14-2014, 01:54 PM
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That is what I was told, yes
Old 05-14-2014, 05:13 PM
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I spoke to two of the local dealers about this and they both confirmed they are NOT changing the carrier bolts with pads. Neither one of them even have the bolts in stock! I'll order a set from Suncoast and swap out every few changes I guess.
Old 05-14-2014, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by John's 991
Hi Craig, can you explain why the caliper bolts need to be replaced every time you remove the caliper? They only run about $40, but that does work out to $5 a bolt. It is not really the cost I object to, I just can't understand how such a substantial piece of metal can be be compromised so easily.


The answer is a standard in the fastener industry: Never reuse fasteners. No matter the size or grade, when properly torqued, they stretch.

I spent several years in fasteners, 3 of them in QA. Having said that, I have no qualms with reusing caliper bolts.
Old 05-14-2014, 09:34 PM
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LOL, mi650! I was getting ready to hear how the brakes would fall off the car if you did not change them every time. Maybe I will replace them every other time, or when I replace the rotors, which will likely be about every other time I change the pads.
Old 05-14-2014, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by chuck911
When I see "brake in a straight line" I think yes, that's how you do it. Turning even slightly transfers weight off the inside wheel losing traction so you always maximize braking in a straight line. But then I see a question asking about changing pads and rotors. Talk about segue, from a driving question to diy how-to? Which makes me think the two are somehow related, as in, the car is pulling to one side or the other under braking. Finally I realize, you know, its possible to ask questions people can answer yet do absolutely no good because nobody has a clue what the guy really needs to know. And there we are.
You possibly have a point,
Old 05-15-2014, 10:33 AM
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The wheel bolts are torqued to 118 ft lbs! That's by far the highest I've seen on any of my cars. I'd be more concerned about replacing those often.
Old 11-25-2014, 12:33 PM
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Default It stops

Completed the rear brake pad/rotor change about a week ago. It actually still stops.......imagine that. Only real issue was detaching/reattaching the sensors. Cant really say it was worth the $250 i saved doing it myself. Dealer is welcome to change the fronts; please, its on me.
Torx was definitely a 55.
Did not change caliper fastener bolts......guess I've no chance to go to heaven now. 😐
Old 11-25-2014, 02:40 PM
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So does the car now brake in a straight line??
Old 11-25-2014, 03:38 PM
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😊
Lol...... Absolutely... But its normally accompanied with firm pressure on the pedal.
Youz guyz!



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