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Looks like quite a few fellows only replace pads and not rotors on the first or even second pad change. I'm easy on brakes. Only perform a couple 80 mph to zero hard brake stops every few weeks or so to eliminate the slight squeak we get from time to time. 25k miles. They are not serial squeakers at all. This will be the first pad change out.
I got the red Brake "wear limit change brake pads possible to drive on" warning a couple of times on two car start cycles today and now its gone.
I checked all the pads and they look like they have another 3,000 miles on them at least. I looked with a mirror at the inboard pads front and rear. Going to pick up pads and caliper bolts tomorrow.
I've actually performed dozen of brake and rotor jobs over the years but these rotors look good.
Question is do I replace the rotors just because? I don't track this car at all. The front rotors are 34mm thick and the rears 27. They appear to be in great shape. Very slight ridge on the rotor edges. No deep groove at all and no cracks.
Looks like quite a few fellows only replace pads and not rotors on the first or even second pad change. I'm easy on brakes. Only perform a couple 80 mph to zero hard brake stops every few weeks or so to eliminate the slight squeak we get from time to time. 25k miles. They are not serial squeakers at all. This will be the first pad change out.
I got the red Brake "wear limit change brake pads possible to drive on" warning a couple of times on two car start cycles today and now its gone.
I checked all the pads and they look like they have another 3,000 miles on them at least. I looked with a mirror at the inboard pads front and rear. Going to pick up pads and caliper bolts tomorrow.
I've actually performed dozen of brake and rotor jobs over the years but these rotors look good.
Question is do I replace the rotors just because? I don't track this car at all. The front rotors are 34mm thick and the rears 27. They appear to be in great shape. Very slight ridge on the rotor edges. No deep groove at all and no cracks.
Just looking for a few opinions.
Thanks. Great thread!
At 25K on the road, unlikely from your description, but a picture is worth a thousand ... well, at least a half of one of my posts ... especially on the topic of brakes. My main concern would be a well executed flush with a decent fluid. Vacuum out the reservoir, start at the inboard nipple of the nearest caliper and use a reservoir pump, not the pedal (to avoid moving the master excessively ... use it to bleed down, if that's your way) to flush each corner with the fresh pads in place so the caliper pistons are fully retracted ... you might need a plastic wedge in each gap between pads and rotors since modern calipers try to have no drag and allow for some knock-back, then keep working near side then opposite front, ending with the far side rear caliper, clear in the inboard side first, so you're evacuating all the fluid in the each caliper. Be careful to clean out the threads in the wheel carrier to avoid galling. Correct torque is important, since they can strip. Some have reused the bolts without trouble, and they're not cheap, but the book calls for new bolts and the bolts come with something on the threads (anti-seize, I guess) which might serve as an installation lube to ensure prescribed torque is achieved without binding.
You don't need to change rotors too. The wear indicator can be be intermittent at first as the rotor eats through the casing separating the electric link. Rears sensors are on both inboard and outboard pads and you may be getting increased wear on the inside which is hard to discern without taking out the pads especially if it's uneven.
Rotors look fine, I wouldn't change them. Can't see the pads obviously so I don't know if you need fronts or rears or both but from what you've said and the pics you don't need rotors.
Question for John regarding replacing brake pads on his 991. Because it has an electric parking brake is a diagnostic tool required to put the parking brake in service mode before changing the rear pads (like required on an Audi)? Thanks for your help!
Question for John regarding replacing brake pads on his 991. Because it has an electric parking brake is a diagnostic tool required to put the parking brake in service mode before changing the rear pads (like required on an Audi)? Thanks for your help!
No just don't turn the parking brake on before you do it.
Question for John regarding replacing brake pads on his 991. Because it has an electric parking brake is a diagnostic tool required to put the parking brake in service mode before changing the rear pads (like required on an Audi)? Thanks for your help!
Take your time with removing/installing the brake pad sensors. The plastic becomes very brittle and can easily break.
10-20-2014, 11:35 PM
