Alan C.

I use a torque multiplier. The one noted has a 3/4" input and a 1" output and is a 3:1 so you would set your torque wrench for 1/3 the required value. Not ideal for the CLs. One with 1/2" in with a 3/4" output would be a bit better. You still need to have a torque wrench. That's why the 1/2" input is better.

I have both and go back and forth between which I like better. However, the multiplier is much easier to use when backing off the CL nut.

mlpor

Thanks Alan, I agree - I have a couple of pretty good 1/2" regular torque wrenches and the CL tool that is supplied with the car is a 3/4tr inch drive socket IIRC, so good points. I'll have to look around for a good multiplier tool, but it's almost a toss up cost wise - the "twin beam" 200+ to 600+ lbft torque wrenches seem to be running @ $380 - $400; the torque multipliers maybe a bit less, but .. . . . . . (?) the accuracy etc.

MayorAdamWest

Right, from reading many other threads, I ultimately got the precision torque wrench because of concerns about accuracy and safety (with car off the ground) with the multipliers.

Hermes911

Just got my 2014 GT3 last week. I have a big learning curve getting it ready for DE events on the track but what fun!
Has anyone heard that swapping out the center lock wheels for 5 lug setup voids the warranty?
Additionally has anyone tried the iPhone app Porsche Track Precision? I want to try it on the east coast tracks of the USA.

Alan C.

The torque multiplier will also multiply the inaccuracy of your torque wrench. You also want to be sure that your torque wrench is good for both CW and CCW. A lot of them aren't. And it's never a bad idea to have your wrench checked for accuracy.

MayorAdamWest

There's nothing that's make you feel better about the locking mechanism than them including a tool that you need to use to "jiggle" the lock to engage it.

sasportas

Got it to work.

I don't use the video.

Simply store in center console and let it collect the data via the car GPS. I didn't want my iPhone flying around on a windshield or dash mount.

NJMP

Lightening and Thunderbolt

No problem to add these tracks

Bartron

For those wishing to rebadge to a larger version of the GT3 emblem than what is on the 991.

http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/9965592379070C.html?Category_Code=997gt3emblems

montoya

I don't know what the issue is with the car off the ground with the multiplier- that is how you are supposed to tighten the CL. I always used my multiplier exclusively with the car raised. I would argue the breaker bars are less safe because you are at the long end of bar and have to be careful the socket doesn't slip off- which I saw happen a few times to people with this setup at the track. The multiplier allows you to steady the socket with one hand while apply torque with the other and I think much safer.

The 4X model from Snap-on http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....e=&dir=catalog works great.

Accuracy is an issue and yes, you should factor in the +/-10% so I would always torque up 10% to account for that.

Edit: OP I noticed you haven't listed any torque multipliers to your list (maybe I missed it?). So as a minimum please list this one, it is a valid and (of course IMHO) a better method for dealing with CL's. There are some pricier 5 and 6X models with I think 5% accuracy so others can chime in.

neuroguru

PMNA even has a torque multiplier for the 997.2 CLs. The part number I have seen is 997 450 332 90. I have never seen them in person. I have my own as well as the torque wrench and long breaker bar.

neuroguru

Well, not sure this is what you want, but it is a lightweight bucket and is an appropriate halo race seat. I know Griffen Motorwerke has successfully fit them in the 991 GT3. There are a couple sizes.

The HANS Pro Racer

https://www.recaro-automotive.com/us...cer-hansr.html

Alan C.

I use an Armstrong 6X multiplier, not cheap, and it's incredibly easy to loosen the CL nut. Much safer than standing or hanging, Joe Graciously provided a demo, on a breaker bar. You can send your multiplier and torque wrench out to check calibration and repeatability at the CL torque spec.

Mike in CA

montoya, maybe you can clarify how exactly the multiplier works for those like myself who haven't used one. But my understanding is that a multiplier requires that a reaction bar must be braced against something solid, say a concrete floor or pavement, and the force generated by the tool to remove the CL bolt is pushing back against the car which may be up on a jack. I think that's where the concern comes from.

When properly attached, so that the safety lock on the central bolt is fully pushed in, the CL removal socket will basically lock in place. My experience is that it takes quite a good tug to remove it. If the socket is slipping off, it's probably because it wasn't properly seated in the first place or because force is being applied to the breaker bar or wrench at a very bad angle.

Maybe you meant to word this differently, but as for accuracy, I don't think you can assume that over-torqueing by 10% to compensate for an error margin of +/-10% is correct. What if the multiplier is already off by +10%? That means an indicated 440 ft/lbs is actually 484. Adding another 10%, or 44 lbs, would put you at 528, which would be way over tightened. The only way to be sure of the proper setting would be to get the multiplier and wrench calibrated together.

If I was having trouble getting the bolt off with the breaker bar, I'd consider going to the expense and effort of getting a multiplier. So far, I haven't a problem with the relatively inexpensive 41" Precision Instruments bar which breaks down to fit in the frunk if necessary.

montoya

Hi Mike: Regarding the reaction bar causing a sudden shift and knocking the car off the jack- this is just not the case. I generally use two jacks per side for safety, but even so, I never felt like that was even remotely happening. The force of the reaction bar is equal to the force you apply in the opposite direction- so the worst case I have seen is some compression on the spring on the front suspension as the pivot of the these two forces (reaction bar and your tightning or loosening torque) pushes up on the suspension. You have to try it to see that there is no issue- and suspension on the rear is much stiffer so compression happens only on the front.

On the accuracy, you are right you could be overtightening somewhat, but I feel better safe than sorry here. My .2 CL's required retorqueing whenever I had my first session on the track anyways and usually 3 out of four had loosened somewhat. I have pages of posts on the .2 forum regarding this issue. For some reason it only impacts .2 GT3 and not the RS that we can tell, but regardless, the +10% helped slightly and seemed the safe thing to do. I replaced hubs, CL nuts, used liberal amounts of grease and followed everything to a T and still required retorque. Once retorqued never an issue all day- we figured something with the materials heating at different rates and a hot (or within an hour of the session retorque solved the issue) And yes, we tried it with a Porsche torque breaker bar, no difference, so the multiplier accuracy was not an issue. Sorry to go off topic here, but I wanted to give you more of the backstory. And nowhere have I seen a warning on overtorqueing the wheels, just under and I would bet even 20% is well within design tolerance. But yes, get your devices calibrated to know where you stand.

As far as slipping of the nut, it is hard to do if seated properly, but I have seen it happen when people are rushed, with the multiplier you can see it better and it is less likely since you can steady the socket with you hand.

Sometimes I feel like there is some sort of mistrust of what is really a common mechanics tool- multipliers are used all the time in heavy industries, nothing magic about it and safe in normal operation.

Mike in CA

montoya, thanks for the feed back and explanation; I appreciate it.