Wheel paint issue
#17
Rennlist Member
I suggest you check out some YouTube videos. I thought the finish was excellent. I also wanted to know the process for removing plastidip off my wheels. It's relatively easily done.
I would like to know more about plastidip's durability.
#18
Wasn't a porsche issue.
Wasn't on the spec sheet.... I told the dealer to add it but he didn't and I didn't pay attention that it wasn't on the sheet. So I'm partially at fault. Thank you for the feedback
Wasn't on the spec sheet.... I told the dealer to add it but he didn't and I didn't pay attention that it wasn't on the sheet. So I'm partially at fault. Thank you for the feedback
#19
Race Director
At first I thought you must be joking. I then checked out some YouTube vids and the product really does appear to work well on wheels. I'm impressed and would seriously consider plastidip if I wanted to change wheel color. Thanks for the tip. I suggest you check out some YouTube videos. I thought the finish was excellent. I also wanted to know the process for removing plastidip off my wheels. It's relatively easily done. I would like to know more about plastidip's durability.
#20
Rennlist Member
I don't know the traits of forged aluminum, but 5000 and 6000 series "out gas" when heated. It loosens the adhesion of Powdercoating, making it prone to blistering. There are Powdercoating primers that help, but it's not perfect, and you've spent a lot on an overly thick coating.
On the other hand, the factory coating sticks quite well. If it's carefully hand sanded, you can apply a urethane color and clear coat with great longevity.
On the other hand, the factory coating sticks quite well. If it's carefully hand sanded, you can apply a urethane color and clear coat with great longevity.
#21
Rennlist Member
It actually is a bit of a joke on the forum that I talk an plastidip. However, the product is amazing for the right usage. Outside of being very cheap, like $10/wheel to apply, which in this crowd may not matter much. I do like the reversibility and paint protection aspects of it. Removal is as tough as digging your nail in it and peeling it off... If it's applied thick enough then it comes off like the skin of a plastic balloon.. Stretches and peels off very easily.
#22
Previous posts about possible damage to wheels form heating are factual. Most forged wheels are made from an aluminum alloy termed 6061 T6. The T6 refers to a tempering process as follows
Solution treatment 960 - 1075F
Quench in water
Artificial age (precipitation heat treatment) @ 350F for 8 hours
The aging at 350F for 8 hours can also be done at a slightly lower temperature for a longer period of time such as 325F for 12 or 14 hours.
Several powder coaters I have contacted quote baking the wheel at 450F to get the powder to melt. If baked at 450F for 1/2 hour the wheel will loose 15 to 20% of its tensile yield strength when it cools to room temperature. Some powders will melt at about 350F which should not cause any loss in strength if the aging was at 350F. Some discussion with your powder coater abut temperatures and accuracy/precision of the oven temperature would be best if powder coating is used. There is an article in the October 2014 issue of Panorama on alloy wheel failures. There is a brief comment about powder coating issues and temperature in the article.
Solution treatment 960 - 1075F
Quench in water
Artificial age (precipitation heat treatment) @ 350F for 8 hours
The aging at 350F for 8 hours can also be done at a slightly lower temperature for a longer period of time such as 325F for 12 or 14 hours.
Several powder coaters I have contacted quote baking the wheel at 450F to get the powder to melt. If baked at 450F for 1/2 hour the wheel will loose 15 to 20% of its tensile yield strength when it cools to room temperature. Some powders will melt at about 350F which should not cause any loss in strength if the aging was at 350F. Some discussion with your powder coater abut temperatures and accuracy/precision of the oven temperature would be best if powder coating is used. There is an article in the October 2014 issue of Panorama on alloy wheel failures. There is a brief comment about powder coating issues and temperature in the article.
#23
Forged rim I would have no issues powder coating but cast I would be leary. Personally know a guy who had a 996 Turbo Twist wheel PC and it busted at the track. Cannot definitely determine that PC was the cause but nevertheless. MY .02
#24
Previous posts about possible damage to wheels form heating are factual. Most forged wheels are made from an aluminum alloy termed 6061 T6. The T6 refers to a tempering process as follows
Solution treatment 960 - 1075F
Quench in water
Artificial age (precipitation heat treatment) @ 350F for 8 hours
The aging at 350F for 8 hours can also be done at a slightly lower temperature for a longer period of time such as 325F for 12 or 14 hours.
Several powder coaters I have contacted quote baking the wheel at 450F to get the powder to melt. If baked at 450F for 1/2 hour the wheel will loose 15 to 20% of its tensile yield strength when it cools to room temperature. Some powders will melt at about 350F which should not cause any loss in strength if the aging was at 350F. Some discussion with your powder coater abut temperatures and accuracy/precision of the oven temperature would be best if powder coating is used. There is an article in the October 2014 issue of Panorama on alloy wheel failures. There is a brief comment about powder coating issues and temperature in the article.
Solution treatment 960 - 1075F
Quench in water
Artificial age (precipitation heat treatment) @ 350F for 8 hours
The aging at 350F for 8 hours can also be done at a slightly lower temperature for a longer period of time such as 325F for 12 or 14 hours.
Several powder coaters I have contacted quote baking the wheel at 450F to get the powder to melt. If baked at 450F for 1/2 hour the wheel will loose 15 to 20% of its tensile yield strength when it cools to room temperature. Some powders will melt at about 350F which should not cause any loss in strength if the aging was at 350F. Some discussion with your powder coater abut temperatures and accuracy/precision of the oven temperature would be best if powder coating is used. There is an article in the October 2014 issue of Panorama on alloy wheel failures. There is a brief comment about powder coating issues and temperature in the article.
good info
#26
Some are concerned about the curing oven temperature affecting the hardness of the wheel.
I have a different concern. Based on some aging powder coat I have observed on other structures it seems that there is some potential for powder coat to hide the start of a crack in a wheel. Paint doesn't have the substance that powder coat has and therefore show the underlying defect more readily.
There are nondestructive methods to test for cracking, however not affordable for the average DIY'er.
Ryan
I have a different concern. Based on some aging powder coat I have observed on other structures it seems that there is some potential for powder coat to hide the start of a crack in a wheel. Paint doesn't have the substance that powder coat has and therefore show the underlying defect more readily.
There are nondestructive methods to test for cracking, however not affordable for the average DIY'er.
Ryan
#27
Race Director
In motorcycles, we paint wheels not powdercoat as wheel breaks are potentially more hazardous to your health than even in a car. I would paint your wheel many times over before powder coating if another "ahem" easier solution doesn't come to mind
#28
Rennlist Member
I don't know the traits of forged aluminum, but 5000 and 6000 series "out gas" when heated. It loosens the adhesion of Powdercoating, making it prone to blistering. There are Powdercoating primers that help, but it's not perfect, and you've spent a lot on an overly thick coating.
This is why wheels used in racing are never powder coated, they are painted.
#29
Race Director
The fact that you never personally experienced a fatal flaw with powdercoating, doesn't negate the existence of a potential problem with the process.
#30
My experience with powder coated vs. painted wheels is that the powder coated ones are super tough and don't scratch easily at all. I've found painted wheels with finishes similar to the GT3 are much more easily scratched with road debris. Bummer that the GT3 wheels are painted, but if that's what it takes to get the alloy strong and light, then I'm good with it.