Track prep DIY
09-23-2014, 08:14 PM
#47
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
No no brake caliper studs. Since you have to remove the caliper to change pads you want to have studs to make it as quick and painless as possible just like the cup cars. Without studs your aluminum uprights will get tired from putting in a new bolt all the time and there is risk of damaging the threads. With caliper studs you can rip the nuts off with an impact, pull off caliper and put caliper back on with ease. You don't have to line up the caliper bolts either which can be a pain.
09-23-2014, 08:17 PM
#48
I think he's talking about studs in the upright/wheel carrier for holding the brake caliper. Using those is easier than the bolts that may be for one use only and can strip the aluminum threads of the upright.
09-23-2014, 10:30 PM
#49
Just for my learning (as I'm no track rat), I noticed there are several numbers listed (99133154380, ...1, ...2, ...3, ...4) for these shims, and I'm assuming there are different thicknesses. Does one order all available sizes to mix and match as needed? Or do the different numbers signify something else? Thanks!
09-27-2014, 12:54 AM
#50
Rennlist Member
Spartan/Paver - thanks for the clariffication (I was pretty certain I was on the wrong track re CL vs 5 stud!).
I got these shim part numbers with the size description from my Porsche parts guy on Friday. the last three part numbers are supposedly the shims for the front suspesnion (aka 997 GT3/996GT3 psrts).
I have been told as a general guide 10mm of shims = -1.0 degree camber. The factorty top mounts allow the camber to go roughly -2.0 front and rear so to achieve -2.5 degrees I would assume youd need around 5mm shims for teh front and probably 6-7mm for the rear (to be safe as theres just under -2.0 in the factory set up there).
I think by using the shims you also change the caster and the 991 GT3 is sensitive to this at the front as there isnt alot of room in the wheel well. The factory I believe specify 9.30 and this is probably where you want to try and keep it so as you use shims it might be an idea to use a lower control arm adjustable insert like Elephant Racing make to adjust for the altered castor?
I got these shim part numbers with the size description from my Porsche parts guy on Friday. the last three part numbers are supposedly the shims for the front suspesnion (aka 997 GT3/996GT3 psrts).
I have been told as a general guide 10mm of shims = -1.0 degree camber. The factorty top mounts allow the camber to go roughly -2.0 front and rear so to achieve -2.5 degrees I would assume youd need around 5mm shims for teh front and probably 6-7mm for the rear (to be safe as theres just under -2.0 in the factory set up there).
I think by using the shims you also change the caster and the 991 GT3 is sensitive to this at the front as there isnt alot of room in the wheel well. The factory I believe specify 9.30 and this is probably where you want to try and keep it so as you use shims it might be an idea to use a lower control arm adjustable insert like Elephant Racing make to adjust for the altered castor?
09-27-2014, 12:58 AM
#51
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
No no brake caliper studs. Since you have to remove the caliper to change pads you want to have studs to make it as quick and painless as possible just like the cup cars. Without studs your aluminum uprights will get tired from putting in a new bolt all the time and there is risk of damaging the threads. With caliper studs you can rip the nuts off with an impact, pull off caliper and put caliper back on with ease. You don't have to line up the caliper bolts either which can be a pain.
though i need a small impact to get the nuts out. now only manual ratchets.
05-01-2015, 02:57 AM
#53
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That RSR is where the 991 rear uprights came from to fyi
