trailering a GT3 RS...newbie questions
03-23-2017, 12:30 AM
#17
I went through all of this last year, so it's pretty fresh.
It's a combination of how much you are willing to spend, for how much convenience, how much resale value, how much "stuff" you want to bring to the track, and importantly, how much tow vehicle you have.
First is the tow vehicle. If you can tow 9k or better (F150 with proper setup), you have lots of options. If you are towing with an SUV and are capped at 7k, you are very limited. If the latter, you need all aluminum, and 20-22' as you won't be able to put a lot in it and stay under weight.
If you have tow capacity, next question is steel or aluminum. Aluminum is lighter, lasts longer, and has higher resale value. If these are important, spend the money and the vast majority of the extra cost will come back to you when you sell.
Next is how much stuff. I have a 24' and put my full size rolling tool box in it, along with spare tires, folding chairs, spare parts, etc, all with ease. You can squeeze all of this in a 22', but it just gets crowded fast.
Finally, convenience. I did go with the side door, awning style with the removable fender and I LOVE it. It's just so easy to get in and out of. My car is expensive and I just could not see crawling in and out of the window -- it was worth the money to get the side door for me and I could afford it. Zero regrets.
ATC makes a good trailer with an awning door, but they will try to tell you that you need to buy a fully loaded Quest with rubber floors and built in tool benches, when you don't. My 24' with awning driver door, and finished walls/ceiling, was ~$16k. If this is what you want PM me and I'll give you more detail.
It's a combination of how much you are willing to spend, for how much convenience, how much resale value, how much "stuff" you want to bring to the track, and importantly, how much tow vehicle you have.
First is the tow vehicle. If you can tow 9k or better (F150 with proper setup), you have lots of options. If you are towing with an SUV and are capped at 7k, you are very limited. If the latter, you need all aluminum, and 20-22' as you won't be able to put a lot in it and stay under weight.
If you have tow capacity, next question is steel or aluminum. Aluminum is lighter, lasts longer, and has higher resale value. If these are important, spend the money and the vast majority of the extra cost will come back to you when you sell.
Next is how much stuff. I have a 24' and put my full size rolling tool box in it, along with spare tires, folding chairs, spare parts, etc, all with ease. You can squeeze all of this in a 22', but it just gets crowded fast.
Finally, convenience. I did go with the side door, awning style with the removable fender and I LOVE it. It's just so easy to get in and out of. My car is expensive and I just could not see crawling in and out of the window -- it was worth the money to get the side door for me and I could afford it. Zero regrets.
ATC makes a good trailer with an awning door, but they will try to tell you that you need to buy a fully loaded Quest with rubber floors and built in tool benches, when you don't. My 24' with awning driver door, and finished walls/ceiling, was ~$16k. If this is what you want PM me and I'll give you more detail.
03-23-2017, 10:14 AM
#18
Trailex - make sure to get late model trailex trailer that has the widest track. The RS will not fit in the older generation trailex models. Door swings open so you easily drive the car in and comfortably get out with the foor fully open (does not hit wheel well). Also has the option for cabinets, tore rack, winch, spare whees, battery etc. Trailer comes with full led lights inside out.
03-24-2017, 10:40 PM
#19
Trailex - make sure to get late model trailex trailer that has the widest track. The RS will not fit in the older generation trailex models. Door swings open so you easily drive the car in and comfortably get out with the foor fully open (does not hit wheel well). Also has the option for cabinets, tore rack, winch, spare whees, battery etc. Trailer comes with full led lights inside out.
drivers door opens over the trailer fender or is that removable?
wheel straps or d rings?
03-25-2017, 02:44 AM
#20
I don't have interior shots at the moment but I can take some next time I use the trailer.
Drivers door opens over the trailer fender, you dont have to remove anything. Just swing open the trailer side door when loading the car, once loaded just come out of the car like you normally would.
Trailer comes with d rings on the floor board, you can use either wheel straps or use chassis mounts on your car.
Drivers door opens over the trailer fender, you dont have to remove anything. Just swing open the trailer side door when loading the car, once loaded just come out of the car like you normally would.
Trailer comes with d rings on the floor board, you can use either wheel straps or use chassis mounts on your car.
03-25-2017, 02:05 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
Traier
I used an open trailer for a five years, bit the bullet 2 years ago and bought a 24' ATC enclosed trailer with the escape door. I'm 6'4" and my car has a full cage with halo seat and it is a real chore to get out of it through the window. I tow with a Duramax p/u. After my first race with the trailer I kicked myself for not doing it sooner. Feel free to contact me as well if you want any more info. The aluminum trailers are the way to go, they tow great and hold their value. I went with the ATC with the finished walls inside, seems to stay a lot cooler in the sun plus it was in stock and i liked the look.
03-25-2017, 02:07 PM
#23
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Here you go. If you need any additional info, send me a PM. My car is very low so I need the additional ramps in the front in order to be able to open the driver door over the sill. You should have no problems with a stock car.
03-26-2017, 03:58 AM
#24
Awesome pics guys!
Giving me ideas for sure...and making me more poor ...lol
Just did BBi roll bar and Sabelt 6 point harness install today with the help of my buddy...
Have decided being a contortionist and climbing out the window is not for me!!!
Giving me ideas for sure...and making me more poor ...lol
Just did BBi roll bar and Sabelt 6 point harness install today with the help of my buddy...
Have decided being a contortionist and climbing out the window is not for me!!!
03-26-2017, 08:45 AM
#25
Track Day
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Naples, FL
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Guys, I'm taking delivery of a new 26' ATC aluminum trailer next week to haul my GT3 RS and plan on using the MAC over-the-wheel tie down straps. There is plenty of room to place the straps over the front tires. Can someone explain how they get the straps over the rear wheels, as shown in Ryan's photo above?
There doesn't seem to be enough clearance over the rear wheels to place the strap, especially with the rubber blocking on the straps.
Thanks
There doesn't seem to be enough clearance over the rear wheels to place the strap, especially with the rubber blocking on the straps.
Thanks
03-27-2017, 11:22 AM
#27
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I recently bit the bullet and purchased a 22' Featherlite. Why 22' you ask? :-) I had a 20' and it worked but was pretty tight once the car, spares, tires, bike, tools, etc were loaded. My challenge is my primary tow vehicle is 45' long and I didn't want to exceed the 65' CA max by too much... My backup is a Cayenne Turbo S and I thought 24' was pushing the limits of the Cayenne.
03-27-2017, 06:31 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
Ive done the above all before.
Just go straight to what you will end up with anyway. Ask Mooty.
Always get a 2 car trailer. Someone has to pay for the hotel beer and diesel......
Airline tracks in the floor, recessed lighting, extra aluminum in the floor and wall because it always bends.
And always, always buy 16 ply stacker tires...
Because with the pointy nose and speed bubble you can cruise at 86-90MPH and you don't want to be looking in your mirror waiting for a tire to blow.
You're welcome.
To do it right, you order this from Goldrush, featherlight etc.
Just go straight to what you will end up with anyway. Ask Mooty.
Always get a 2 car trailer. Someone has to pay for the hotel beer and diesel......
Airline tracks in the floor, recessed lighting, extra aluminum in the floor and wall because it always bends.
And always, always buy 16 ply stacker tires...
Because with the pointy nose and speed bubble you can cruise at 86-90MPH and you don't want to be looking in your mirror waiting for a tire to blow.
You're welcome.
To do it right, you order this from Goldrush, featherlight etc.
03-27-2017, 10:46 PM
#30
But remember I'm a newbie at this towing thing...Not used to anything larger than an X5!!
Besides, I've already skipped the open trailer...and my first P-car is an RS, so I think I'm doing OK as far as skipping the baby steps...
