Setup numbers RS
05-26-2016, 08:01 AM
#93
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Ponte Vedra Beach, FL
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
Received 32 Likes
on
19 Posts
Have the exact same issue with my right rear...after two days at a clockwise track. My fender remains untouched. I believe it's a sway bar and potentially alignment issue. Following peters advice, will be moving from medium to full stiff and double checking alignment to ensure baseline factory specs.
05-26-2016, 08:48 AM
#94
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Wishing I Was At The Track
Posts: 13,512
Received 1,722 Likes
on
913 Posts
On the GT3's I have been told that you need to replace the thrust arm bushings in order to get more than -2.2 of camber and still maintain caster. I assumed this was true for the RS as well, so I ordered LCA Monoball ends and adj thrust arm bushings before getting my alignment. I first ordered them from RSS and my mechanic said they were not right. I then ordered them from Tarrett and they are still not right. According to my mechanic, the thrust arm bushing is just a little too thin and the bolts on the monoball end are too short.
My mechanic had a conversation with Ira at Tarrett and is getting this sorted. Apparently Tarret has monoballs with longer bolts that will work and has a shim for the thrust arm bushing.
Anyone else experience these problems? Anyone getting -2.7 of camber with stock parts and no rubbing?
My mechanic had a conversation with Ira at Tarrett and is getting this sorted. Apparently Tarret has monoballs with longer bolts that will work and has a shim for the thrust arm bushing.
Anyone else experience these problems? Anyone getting -2.7 of camber with stock parts and no rubbing?
05-26-2016, 10:21 AM
#95
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Have the exact same issue with my right rear...after two days at a clockwise track. My fender remains untouched. I believe it's a sway bar and potentially alignment issue. Following peters advice, will be moving from medium to full stiff and double checking alignment to ensure baseline factory specs.
Again, I think it doesn't have anything to do with rubbing, its just the strange wear (Opposite of the 997's that always corded inside first) due to compound buildup of the MSPC being hard inside and slick soft outside and RWS.
The tires might last longer but not so if the car is faster with more camber.
-2.7 / -3 seems to be best fro tire wear. Rear way bar and toe are also a factor.
I have -3F and 2.7R all stock parts, just added shims in the rear, no rubbing anywhere now.
Gator9_911's outer tire wear:
05-31-2016, 11:07 AM
#97
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I wonder if this has been done to mine in Germany.
If so it was done he first weeks in November between me dropping it off at the factory and the car getting shipped.
I'm traveling the next couple of weeks, but I'll try to go to a Porsche dealer with this paperwork to see what was done.
If so it was done he first weeks in November between me dropping it off at the factory and the car getting shipped.
I'm traveling the next couple of weeks, but I'll try to go to a Porsche dealer with this paperwork to see what was done.
The following users liked this post:
WP0 (03-04-2020)
05-31-2016, 11:22 AM
#99
Race Car
Thanks for posting, Peter.
Some details there that I wasn't aware of.
I hope my car will be fixed before end of next week.
I notice that there is no mentioning of modifying the front fender liners.
Some details there that I wasn't aware of.
I hope my car will be fixed before end of next week.
I notice that there is no mentioning of modifying the front fender liners.
Last edited by Kobalt; 05-31-2016 at 11:44 AM.
06-03-2016, 08:20 AM
#103
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Ponte Vedra Beach, FL
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
Received 32 Likes
on
19 Posts
Finally got my car on the rack. As suspected by other rennlisters, stock setup is not good. And you can only go with so much negative camber without shims.
So to try and counteract buying new rear tires after every two track days...made the following changes.
- buy new tires (fun)
-rear sway bar to full stiff / left front at medium
- rear camber to -2.5 (max I could get) (was -1.7)
- front camber to -2.2 (was -1.7) (max)
Will run this weekend at a track the abuses the left tires and see how the wear looks.
Trakcar said this should hopefully keep the premature outer wear from beating so drastic ...so quickly.
Then I will get shims and go from There
So to try and counteract buying new rear tires after every two track days...made the following changes.
- buy new tires (fun)
-rear sway bar to full stiff / left front at medium
- rear camber to -2.5 (max I could get) (was -1.7)
- front camber to -2.2 (was -1.7) (max)
Will run this weekend at a track the abuses the left tires and see how the wear looks.
Trakcar said this should hopefully keep the premature outer wear from beating so drastic ...so quickly.
Then I will get shims and go from There
06-03-2016, 11:49 AM
#105
Rennlist Member
Hi,
Thank you for this thread ... my RS will be here next week and the info is very useful because I will be tracking her (as I do my TTS).
I am lucky to have Autometrics 15 minutes away from me so I was going to take the car to them to do the track setup.
It seems however that everyone is still trying to figure out how best to set the car up. I've only been tracking for a couple of years so I'm high intermediate/low advanced driver in HPDE depending on whether I've been on a particular track before.
I'm obviously not good enough to push the car anywhere near its limits, so I don't need an uber aggressive setup for hero laps or breaking track records and having to replace tires after each event as a result. I just want a relatively consistent conservative setup for a balanced car, so that I can grow into into it, and more importantly, is 'neutral' enough so I know when I get a corner wrong, it's a me issue as opposed to a setup issue
Thanks a bunch.
Thank you for this thread ... my RS will be here next week and the info is very useful because I will be tracking her (as I do my TTS).
I am lucky to have Autometrics 15 minutes away from me so I was going to take the car to them to do the track setup.
It seems however that everyone is still trying to figure out how best to set the car up. I've only been tracking for a couple of years so I'm high intermediate/low advanced driver in HPDE depending on whether I've been on a particular track before.
I'm obviously not good enough to push the car anywhere near its limits, so I don't need an uber aggressive setup for hero laps or breaking track records and having to replace tires after each event as a result. I just want a relatively consistent conservative setup for a balanced car, so that I can grow into into it, and more importantly, is 'neutral' enough so I know when I get a corner wrong, it's a me issue as opposed to a setup issue
Thanks a bunch.