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Old 04-23-2016, 12:35 PM
  #46  
Joe731
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Default Stock Alignment and Ride Height

Trying to contribute to the grand experiment, here are my stock alignment numbers prior to any changes. Same with ride height. What's interesting on the ride height (using wheel arch method) is that the left front is about 1/4" taller than the right front and the right rear is about about 1/4" taller than the left rear (opposite front to rear).

Trakcar, your ride height looks to be only 1/8" lower than my stock height, though our measurements are a bit crude.

2016 GT3RS Stock Alignment and Ride Height (2016-03-31)
Camber......LF -1.7 RF -1.7
.................LR -1.7 RR -1.7

Toe...........LF +0.04” RF -0.02”
................LR 0.07” RR 0.10”

Caster.......LF 8.8 RF 9.0

Ride Height (Top of wheel arch)
.................LF 27 13/16 RF 27 ½
.................LR 28 1/4 RR 28 7/16

Ride Height (TrakCar molding seam method)
LF 9 1/8 RF 8 7/8
LR 7 5/8 RR 7 7/8

More to come on tire temps after Sunday/Monday at NJMSP. All advanced day, so 7-8 sessions per day

Also, I am aiming for 32F, 36R on hot tire temps on the MPSC2s, which seemed OK on my first outing.

Last edited by Joe731; 04-23-2016 at 02:59 PM.
Old 04-24-2016, 01:07 PM
  #47  
Hoopumpers
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After setup, my RS wound up with -2.8 camber on all four corners. Tire wear was much more consistent across the whole tire, especially rears. I didn't have a pyrometer to check temps. I drove at thermal which is a very smooth, low grip surface with almost no elevation change, so not a ton of vertical travel but I didn't have any apparent issues with rubbing. I'll have the car at COTA later this week and can give more input.

OT: the car had tranny issues twice yesterday and went into limp mode. Some of the time I drove in PDK Sport auto mode and twice the car seemed to simply stop shifting and instead slammed against the rev limiter. Then I would receive a "drive to workshop" warning and the car would go into limp mode. Restarting the car cleared the issue. Rather disappointing, but forces me to drive in manual mode, which I prefer from a fun/involvement factor anyway. Hmm...
Old 04-24-2016, 01:33 PM
  #48  
TRAKCAR
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Hoopumper, by any Chance was your car below 1/4 tank?

Twice low on fuel I got a warning. Gassed up never to return.

A position anti roll bars?
Old 04-24-2016, 02:59 PM
  #49  
kyrocks
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Will add to this thread in a bit. Still getting break in miles. Need to add a roll bar and then get car aligned and corner balanced. The car needs to be tracked to be enjoyed in my opinion although my GT4 is my track rat at the moment... Peter thank you for the pics and info.
Old 04-24-2016, 04:36 PM
  #50  
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Hmm, just a quick question, more curious than anything else.

Why bother with changing the stock setup?

I just finished a Master-RSR course at Leipzig, they had 20 GT3RSs there, none of them had anything but out of factory alignments, setup. They had no problem with irregular tire wear or anything else. Heck, even the stock fender screen is in place and none of them had any signs of rubbing.

Just this morning, one of the instructors, a Porsche Works driver, set the fastest time ever this morning on the big layout of the track, on stock setting and just the regular Cup2s, 1:41 and little change. He did that leading a student in a Cup car in a lead-chase session.

Timo Bernhard was also on hand and he basically matched that time.

For comparison, a 991 Cup car on slicks will do a 1:36s all day long, a 991 GT3 will do 1:44s, about 2.5 seconds slower than the GT3RS.
Old 04-24-2016, 04:42 PM
  #51  
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Well, we cord outside tires front and rear with stock setup.
I really wish they gave us the stock VS Ring setup.

And even with -2.7 the roll bar full stiff rear is needed to reduce outside wear.

My car is bone stock, still have front grills and no rubbing.
I hate dicking around with setup!

Ask about how often the replace rear tires and ride height!
Old 04-24-2016, 06:11 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
Hoopumper, by any Chance was your car below 1/4 tank?
Yes, in fact I was low on fuel. To be clear though, this wasn't just a warning. The transmission shift was failing at redline. It was violent and certainly didn't feel healthy. Running a track car low on fuel is sort of the point when qualifying or trying to set a lap time, so I don't accept "add more fuel" as a remedy.

Whoopsy - cars should be set up to perform optimally based on track, conditions, etc. It isn't a necessity, but certainly an accepted best practice. Assuming the car is "perfect" for any scenario from the factory is a bit silly.

Lastly, I also compared my buddy's GT4 and posted a 10 sec slower lap time than the RS. 2:15 vs 2:25. His car is completely stock though, and has a ton of understeer. Getting the GT4 out of hairpins is a bit painful as the car just lugs, but once it's spun up, it sure is rewarding and fun to drive
Old 04-24-2016, 06:20 PM
  #53  
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Agreed, you won't set your flyer on phumes in this one..
Old 04-24-2016, 06:34 PM
  #54  
Whoopsy
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Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
Well, we cord outside tires front and rear with stock setup.
I really wish they gave us the stock VS Ring setup.

And even with -2.7 the roll bar full stiff rear is needed to reduce outside wear.

My car is bone stock, still have front grills and no rubbing.
I hate dicking around with setup!

Ask about how often the replace rear tires and ride height!
Ride height is stock straight out of factory. Technically the RS were still on their 1st set of tires after 2 hard days on the track. We went through a set of rears yesterday simply because we were drifting in the skidpad circle burning rubber.

But the instructor cars are basically showing even tire wear across the surface.

Originally Posted by Hoopumpers

Whoopsy - cars should be set up to perform optimally based on track, conditions, etc. It isn't a necessity, but certainly an accepted best practice. Assuming the car is "perfect" for any scenario from the factory is a bit silly.

Lastly, I also compared my buddy's GT4 and posted a 10 sec slower lap time than the RS. 2:15 vs 2:25. His car is completely stock though, and has a ton of understeer. Getting the GT4 out of hairpins is a bit painful as the car just lugs, but once it's spun up, it sure is rewarding and fun to drive
GT4 was pig out of hairpins simply due to gearing. the long second gear is useless, need to go down into 1st.
Old 04-24-2016, 06:46 PM
  #55  
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Ok, I guess I don't understand the defense of factory alignment settings in a thread for sharing new setup information...but carry on
Old 04-24-2016, 06:57 PM
  #56  
TRAKCAR
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Maybe we should start a letter writing campaign to Porsche / Manthey requesting WTF is a good baseline for the Ring. If its Good enough for the Ring it's good enough for Sebring is good enough for me.

Since we can't mess with LSD, nor have to it's just rake, ride height, camber and toe.
Mine feels good joe so that may be it.
Old 04-24-2016, 07:02 PM
  #57  
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My toe is currently 0 front, 4mm rear
Old 04-24-2016, 07:13 PM
  #58  
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Found out yesterday I only have 1mm in each side rear..
On 997 it was always 2mm..
Old 04-25-2016, 12:48 AM
  #59  
Sarum87
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regarding the factory alignment and running it "as is" from the factory. Have some of you measured your alignment according to the factory specs in the manual and run it stock before changing alignment? maybe a dumb question, but that is what I plan on doing before making changes. I know that sometimes the stock settings are not right and need to adjusted a bit....I have a new RS coming and will share my data when I get it. valuable thread. thanks for all input.
Old 04-25-2016, 04:12 AM
  #60  
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thx everyone for sharing!
as soon a RS pops up for me i will re-read it 5times.

and beginning of June i will hopefully meet Peterfirst and a lot of other fast RS´s at the RedBullRing: http://www.porsche.com/porschesports...s/redbullring/



Whoopsy - your last days sounds like a blast! would love if you could open a thread / post some pics and impressions.


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