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Orthojoe's track build journal

Old 04-29-2016, 07:53 PM
  #1696  
TRAKCAR
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Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
I always try to switch side to side.
Michelin was on track with us in Europe and refused to do it because they said the tire has a great risk of failing once you counter rotate after heat cycles.

A way to sell more tires or truth?

On the RS rears last 2-3 days fronts twice as long.
I posted the above.
Old 04-29-2016, 08:15 PM
  #1697  
Tom Tweed
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Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
I posted the above.
Understood, Peter, I read that post, as well as the subsequent discussion here, but is this some kind of secret the Michelin engineers are keeping to themselves? Seems to me it would represent quite a liability for Michelin to not advise owners about it if it is true. Is it in any of their written and published advisories? If so, I can't find it, and I've been through all the technical material I could dig up on their website since reading about your experience. It's quite disconcerting.

TT
Old 05-15-2016, 01:43 AM
  #1698  
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joe -

Every track day or so I add 1/2 qt 0-40 Mobil 1. If the GT3 burns that much does it make sense to change the oil more frequently than annually? Although I haven't had the car for 1 year yet, I expect to only drive it maybe 2500 miles per year.

Thanks.
Old 05-15-2016, 02:29 AM
  #1699  
orthojoe
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Originally Posted by redyps
joe -

Every track day or so I add 1/2 qt 0-40 Mobil 1. If the GT3 burns that much does it make sense to change the oil more frequently than annually? Although I haven't had the car for 1 year yet, I expect to only drive it maybe 2500 miles per year.

Thanks.
That sounds about right. As you put more miles on the car, the car will burn less oil. Actually, if you think about it, the more oil it burns, the less frequently you need to change oil because you are adding new oil to replace what was burned away. If you're only doing 2500 miles total a year, I'd just change it once a year.
Old 06-16-2016, 08:11 PM
  #1700  
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Had read through the thread's discussion of the Porsche vs Ferrari specs on the PSC2s...

I just recently ordered a set of PSC2 N0 specs so just so I'd have them when the time came, but it looks like I was shipped K1 Ferrari rears. I did a double take when I saw the packaging slip and double checked my order was for N0.

Called up the company (a fairly well know Bay Area performance tire retailer) and left them a message. For one, there is a price difference between the two, so annoyed by that.

But the other part I am unsure of is whether or not I should keep the K1s or send them back and try to get N0 rears. The retailer no longer has N0 rears online, but Tire Rack does.

Any opinions? Wear wise, fronts wear faster, but grip wise, the K1s reportedly aren't as good.
Old 06-16-2016, 08:26 PM
  #1701  
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Originally Posted by krobertson
Had read through the thread's discussion of the Porsche vs Ferrari specs on the PSC2s...

I just recently ordered a set of PSC2 N0 specs so just so I'd have them when the time came, but it looks like I was shipped K1 Ferrari rears. I did a double take when I saw the packaging slip and double checked my order was for N0.

Called up the company (a fairly well know Bay Area performance tire retailer) and left them a message. For one, there is a price difference between the two, so annoyed by that.

But the other part I am unsure of is whether or not I should keep the K1s or send them back and try to get N0 rears. The retailer no longer has N0 rears online, but Tire Rack does.

Any opinions? Wear wise, fronts wear faster, but grip wise, the K1s reportedly aren't as good.
I would return the K1s and get the N0s.
Old 06-16-2016, 08:30 PM
  #1702  
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Originally Posted by krobertson
Had read through the thread's discussion of the Porsche vs Ferrari specs on the PSC2s...

I just recently ordered a set of PSC2 N0 specs so just so I'd have them when the time came, but it looks like I was shipped K1 Ferrari rears. I did a double take when I saw the packaging slip and double checked my order was for N0.

Called up the company (a fairly well know Bay Area performance tire retailer) and left them a message. For one, there is a price difference between the two, so annoyed by that.

But the other part I am unsure of is whether or not I should keep the K1s or send them back and try to get N0 rears. The retailer no longer has N0 rears online, but Tire Rack does.

Any opinions? Wear wise, fronts wear faster, but grip wise, the K1s reportedly aren't as good.
K1 rear and n0 front is a setup for oversteer. I wouldn't do it.
Old 06-16-2016, 10:11 PM
  #1703  
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N0 tears were actually cheaper right now on TR. cheaper than the fronts even. I just ordered them from TR. definitely return the K spec ones.
Old 06-28-2016, 01:55 PM
  #1704  
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Further to the ESC discussion, I was surprised to see how different the intervention is between the 991TT and my 991 GT3 (my TT was a 2014 and my GT3 is a 2016 so it's possible the newer turbos have evolved). I got so much ESC activation on the track in the TTS that I turned it off in order to avoid premature brake wear. Driving the same style and line in the GT3 I get virtually zero ESC engagement. I'm not surprised that the nanny level would be turned up in the more "civil" TT but I was quite surprised by how much.
Old 06-28-2016, 07:25 PM
  #1705  
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hey Joe.... have you adjusted your sway bars from stock settings?
Old 06-28-2016, 07:56 PM
  #1706  
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Originally Posted by PhilT3
hey Joe.... have you adjusted your sway bars from stock settings?
I have, but it doesn't matter what I've done. Those bars are supposed to allow you to adjust for how YOU feel the car is behaving. Does it over or understeer? At corner entry or exit? That is what matters, because there are too many variables to assume what that works for me will work for you.
Old 06-28-2016, 11:14 PM
  #1707  
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Originally Posted by orthojoe
I have, but it doesn't matter what I've done. Those bars are supposed to allow you to adjust for how YOU feel the car is behaving. Does it over or understeer? At corner entry or exit? That is what matters, because there are too many variables to assume what that works for me will work for you.
Yes, I understand that. I was merely curious. Thanks anyway.
Old 06-29-2016, 12:49 AM
  #1708  
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Originally Posted by PhilT3
Yes, I understand that. I was merely curious. Thanks anyway.
It's in the thread. Front full stiff and rear full soft. You never answered my question. I'm not trying to be a smart *** (this time). I'm trying to help. Tell me how what you feel the car is doing and tell me what your sway bar and alignment settings are and I can suggest a change

Keep in mind that there are some really good drivers here who have the totally opposite sway bar settings that I do. Alignment, parts, track, driver, all play a role

Last edited by orthojoe; 06-29-2016 at 01:21 AM.
Old 06-29-2016, 12:49 PM
  #1709  
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Originally Posted by orthojoe
It's in the thread. Front full stiff and rear full soft. You never answered my question. I'm not trying to be a smart *** (this time). I'm trying to help. Tell me how what you feel the car is doing and tell me what your sway bar and alignment settings are and I can suggest a change

Keep in mind that there are some really good drivers here who have the totally opposite sway bar settings that I do. Alignment, parts, track, driver, all play a role
Not sure just yet. I feel I could use a little less body roll and more turn in. Haven't pushed enough to feel oversteer. So I don't believe i'm ready to make any changes. I was just curious to see what YOU are doing. All good bud.

I appreciate your help.
Old 06-29-2016, 04:17 PM
  #1710  
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Originally Posted by PhilT3
Not sure just yet. I feel I could use a little less body roll and more turn in. Haven't pushed enough to feel oversteer. So I don't believe i'm ready to make any changes. I was just curious to see what YOU are doing. All good bud.

I appreciate your help.
Try running the front bar on full stiff and run 1.5mm toe out in the front on each side. I think you'll like that

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