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How to do a DIY 991 GT3 Oil Change

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Old 10-17-2014, 03:56 PM
  #31  
nlpamg
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Thank you for this. Very helpful. Wow, that looks like a lot of work, lol.
Old 10-17-2014, 10:57 PM
  #32  
doubleurx
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FYI: Walmart is the place to buy oil. 5 Quart Mobil 0-40 for $25.00. It's always priced this low.
Old 10-17-2014, 11:36 PM
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rockitman
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Mike,

What is the jacking sequence to get all four corners in the air ? With my 996 I would start at the passenger side rear jack point...the front wheel would also lift... drop it on the rear stand, jack up the front the rest of the way, let it down on the stand and then do the same on the driver side. Is that correct ?
Old 10-18-2014, 12:21 AM
  #34  
Mike in CA
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Originally Posted by rockitman
Mike,

What is the jacking sequence to get all four corners in the air ? With my 996 I would start at the passenger side rear jack point...the front wheel would also lift... drop it on the rear stand, jack up the front the rest of the way, let it down on the stand and then do the same on the driver side. Is that correct ?
rockitman, I don't know for sure if there is a "correct" way but what I did was raise both sides at the rear first, then move to the front. The problem is that the GT3 is very low and with two stands on one side the car would be tilted way over and it could be problematic getting the jack and lifting pad under a jacking point on the other side. As it was, I had to run one rear wheel up on a 2x6 to get enough clearance for the first jack, and when that proved to still be just a bit too low I raised the front end lift to gain the extra 1/8 inch that I needed.

In addition to not raising one whole side at a time, I didn't want to raise the front and then move to the rear, because with the front off the ground, as I raised one side at the rear I figured the heavy drivetrain would put a lot of stress on the chassis. So that left me with lifting the rear first and then the front, blocking the front wheels so there was no chance the un-braked end would roll during the process.

FWIW, that was my reasoning. Maybe someone can explain the correct procedure if I did it wrong.
Old 10-18-2014, 12:54 AM
  #35  
rockitman
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That makes sense. Rears first. I have 3" rubber wheel pads I can drive the fronts onto to get more front lip clearance when I raise both rears first.
Old 10-18-2014, 04:10 AM
  #36  
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Very detailed and informative procedure. Thanks Mike and as usual you are always looking out for us. Thank you and God bless you.

Only comment I have is regarding using a torque wrench to tighten the tank & oil pan plugs. Indeed it is almost impossible to use one due to the tight space. However you might be able to use an inline electrical or pneumatic torque wrench/driver (http://www.expressassembly.com/catal...ewdriver-FL280) or use a preset torque limiter (such as the one in the link below), and in conjunction with a standard inline electrical or pneumatic driver. Just in case someone is concerned about overtorquing the plugs, although Mike's workaround is more than sufficient. Mark

http://www.protorquetools.com/prod-1...300-in-lbs.htm

Last edited by mqandil; 10-18-2014 at 08:24 AM.
Old 10-19-2014, 08:45 PM
  #37  
Turbohead
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Does this DIY oil change of break in oil affect you warranty ?
Old 10-19-2014, 08:51 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Turbohead
Does this DIY oil change of break in oil affect you warranty ?
I do not believe Porsche uses break in oil.
Old 10-19-2014, 09:09 PM
  #39  
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Thanks Mike for such an informative and detailed post.
Old 10-19-2014, 09:20 PM
  #40  
Mike in CA
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Originally Posted by Turbohead
Does this DIY oil change of break in oil affect you warranty ?
It's break-in oil only in the sense that it's the oil in the engine during break-in. Nothing special about it.

If you mean, in general, does changing your own oil affect your warranty, the answer is no, unless you forget to install new oil or tighten the drain plug or something.

I write the date and mileage of the change in my warranty book and keep the parts receipts. I suppose if someone were paranoid about it you could even take a photo or two of the process. Anyway, in decades of oil changes I've never been questioned by any manufacturer on a DIY change.

Last edited by Mike in CA; 10-19-2014 at 09:52 PM.
Old 10-19-2014, 09:26 PM
  #41  
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Agreed. Factory fill is Mobil 1 0/40. It's always a good thing to change the oil sooner than later. My first will be at 1500 miles.
Old 10-25-2014, 04:29 PM
  #42  
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Mike, nicely done my friend!

Thank you!

I'll copy it to the DIY section.


Best

John
Old 11-13-2014, 04:26 PM
  #43  
rockitman
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Originally Posted by Mike in CA
Thanks for the feedback guys. I enjoy doing my own oil changes and I'm glad sharing my experience was useful.

As for the jack stands, Montoya had the link to the site in his post but here it is again:

http://jackpointjackstands.com/

They are made in the USA and very nicely done. The pics below show how they work. The aluminum pin fits through a hole in the replaceable rubber piece which then is placed on top of the pad which has a recessed area to accommodate the pin. The pad comes in different sizes; the low profile version is appropriate for low cars like Porsches.

The pad goes on the jack and the pin is aligned with the hole in the jacking point on the frame. The car is raised high enough to slide the stand under the pad from the back side with the opening in the stand straddling the jack. The pad is then lowered onto the stand and the jack can be removed and used at the next jacking point. Each stand is capacity rated at 4000 lbs so they can be used with much heavier vehicles if desired.

They aren't cheap but neither is my car or my body parts. I really like them.

BTW, for those asking about the jack, it's available on Amazon. It's also a nice piece and comes with a lifetime warranty.

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-1532-Capac...words=otc+jack
Mike,

which OTC race jack do you have...the 1532 model which is 28.7" long or the model 1533 which is 36.7" long ? My AC Hydraulics does not fit with the jackpoint stands so I want to make sure I get the right size OTC jack. Thanks in advance.
Old 11-13-2014, 06:27 PM
  #44  
Mike in CA
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Originally Posted by rockitman
Mike,

which OTC race jack do you have...the 1532 model which is 28.7" long or the model 1533 which is 36.7" long ? My AC Hydraulics does not fit with the jackpoint stands so I want to make sure I get the right size OTC jack. Thanks in advance.
Christian, I'm pretty sure that the model 1532 jack and the model 1533 jack are identical; the 1533 just comes packaged with jackstands. They look the same and I can only find one 2 ton aluminum racing jack on the OTC web site. The descriptions on Amazon are the same too; 5 pumps with an 18" maximum height. Also, my jack only measures 24" long (not counting the handle) so I think the dimensions on Amazon refer to the overall packaging not the jack itself.

All that said, I have the 1532.

1532
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1533
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-1533-Alumi...words=otc+1533
Old 11-13-2014, 06:47 PM
  #45  
rockitman
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Originally Posted by Mike in CA
Christian, I'm pretty sure that the model 1532 jack and the model 1533 jack are identical; the 1533 just comes packaged with jackstands. They look the same and I can only find one 2 ton aluminum racing jack on the OTC web site. The descriptions on Amazon are the same too; 5 pumps with an 18" maximum height. Also, my jack only measures 24" long (not counting the handle) so I think the dimensions on Amazon refer to the overall packaging not the jack itself.

All that said, I have the 1532.

1532
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1533
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-1533-Alumi...words=otc+1533
That is where I planned to buy it hence the size confusion. I noticed you removed the side handles on your Jack. I assume that is necessary for Jack point stand clearance ? the stands are impressive. I am getting all these parts and accessories and I don't have a car yet...lol
I also got my sharwerks kit today and was checking out the tips...they are massive...my excitement level is hard to contain.


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