bassie81

Good luck with the hunt! Spyder is a great asset.

If future resale is on your mind (even if its in the back) try to trace your spyder with buckets and AC. Most buyers will prefer them.

Seats can be changed to comfort if you want, reverse change (buy a comfort seat car and change into buckets) will be pricy as buckets trade for around $8k and up.

Sports exhaust is a nice feature, but can be added,
Short shifter is nice, but can be added
Original spyder wheels a pricy as well

w00tPORSCHE

Redyps (Phil's) spyder should be on your radar at the very top. He is one of the most meticulous owners one could ever encounter. When buying used I buy the owner and not the car. His car is optioned just perfect IMO. Here's the link for the car:

https://rennlist.com/forums/vehicle-...lwb-pccbs.html

Egan70

Guys, any idea what the ground clearance is at the jack points? I measured my lift this morning and the arms are right at 5". I'm thinking I might need some small ramps.

Jim137a

Not sure of the height of the jack points but an easy solution is to just get yourself 2 planks ( 2" x 6" or 2" x 8" ) and drive the car up on the planks then put the lift arms under the car.

SCMike

My clearance at 4-1/2" +/-. Like Jim137a says, planks may be your best friends.

Egan70

I forgot I had these from back when I tracked a lot. They held up much heavier cars so they should do the trick.

Egan70

Still looking. I meant to go see Phil's car this weekend, but we had some conflicts I forgot about. It looks great and everyone speaks highly of Phil, but I'm not sure about buying a car that has seen a lot of track time (having dozens of DE days myself). This is not going to be a track car for me. The PCCB's are a turn off too just from a future maintenance standpoint. I could probably live without the A/C if I had to. Just not 100% sure...

Found a silver with red interior that popped up on cargurus with 6300 miles on it at a dealership in Atlanta. My saved search missed it and I saw it by sheer luck. It had been on cargurus for 2 days and when I got a hold of the dealership it was already sold. I love that color combo! There's a similar one in Chicago at a MB dealership, but they want $69K!

Also found a 2012 with 11,000 miles. Car looks great - some bloat options I could live without, but the guy insists it has PSE. He even sent me a picture (attached) of the button. I politely told him that wasn't the PSE button and based on all of my research, all of the factory installed PSE's have the goggles button. I asked him to check his option sheet for "XLF" and told him to look under neath for the vacuum actuators. Is it possible it was put in aftermarket without the button? Edjamacate me please.

And that Tahoe car is likely sold. Seller was waiting on the buyer to get his financing straight. Even after adding back the correct wheels and stripes, it was still going to be a bargain. But I wasn't going to buy without seeing it, and the roads to the guys house are closed due to the recent flooding.

Fortunately I'm in no rush, but I expect prices will go up when the sun comes out.

Egan70

Talked to the guy with the 2012. He agrees it is NOT the PSE. The car is on its fourth owner and has lived in NY, CT, SC, and now FL. It was PCO car at one point in CT.

Opinions on the options?
* Bluetooth
* Universal Audio Interface
* Bixenon
* Sound pkg plus
* Automatic Climate Control
* Heated seats
* Sport chrono w/o PCM
* Sports Seats Leather
* CDR-30
* 6 Disc CD Changer
* Cup holder
* Self-dimming mirrors & Rain Sensor
* Sport chrono in Carrara white
* Instrument dials in Carrara white
* Goodyear tires

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...ink=true&Log=0

Vancouver-BC

There is a low mileage silver 2011 Spyder at Hennessy Porsche.

http://locator.porsche.com/ipl-custo...ails.ipl?cid=1

Egan70

That's the one that sold in 2 days. They never even got pictures up.

Vancouver-BC

The one I purchased last August showed up on the Porsche Canada site and I purchased the car before it appeared on the dealers website. Just got lucky as the car was local and well cared for, but I had been looking for quite some time.

Marine Blue

Convertible season is coming up so demand from here on out will definitely start going up as will the prices as supply dries up.

But Spyders continue to come up for sale so if you're patient and you're ready to move quickly I think you can find exactly what you want at a reasonable price.

As far as the carbon ceramic brakes, for street use those brakes will last forever. The pads may need to be replaced but that's not pricey.

2XIPA

I switched from a 6GT3 to a 7Spyder in 2013. My Spyder has PDK with paddle shifters which took a little getting used to but now feels completely natural to me (YMMV).

Oh and I’d highly recommend finding one with "Spyder" wheels; sexy, strong and light weight. Heck, I like them so much I bought a second set for my rain tires.

gcleeper

I just looked at a white spyder. All good except for ticking noise on right side of engine.
I let it warm up to see if it was sticky valve, got warm and still tick, tick tick.

Are sticking valves normal for the 3.4 motors ?

Thanks

Newbie George

Macster

Probably not a sticking valve but a bum lifter. These can be affected by "dirt". The Porsche solution -- when done under warranty -- is to replace all lifters of the affected bank. Generally the noise is from an intake lifter so all intake lifters on that bank are replaced but if the noise from an exhaust lifter then all of those. The few cars I have encountered what have had this done none had all lifters on a bank replaced. But there could be a case where this is warranted.

'course, this assumes the noise is from a lifter. Before the lifters are replaced the tech would check the lifter bores for any signs of wear/degradation. If this is found then a new head is called for as a new lifter will be noisy.

Also, there can be other source of the ticking.

You want to see a read out of the DME engine over rev counters to see if the engine experienced a severe over rev. In this case the ticking can be a bent valve. It will eventually burn and the engine will misfire if the valve head doesn't separate from the valve stem first.

A loose plug or a crack or leak in the exhaust sytem can be the source of the ticking.

Unless you are capable of diagnosing the source of the noise accurately and then knowing what it will take to address and being able to adjust your offer price accordingly, and having the buyer accep that price, you should walk away from this car.